Daytime running lights...

[manga_blue]

Driving with the headlights on all the time is not really an option if you own an NA. Remember pop-up headlights!

Here's a brilliant solution for wiring up the parkers using factory parts and zero mods.

http://www.miata.net/garage/cdrl/cdn-drl.htm

I've already found the LED spots are bright enough to do the job as DRLs in the front parker sockets. This gives a quick way of automating them.

[Mr Morlock]

jdm mx5 looks a good location but can he confirm if it's a genuine DRL kit and does it produce a really clear white light for full daylight? It does not look very bright in the photos. If it does details are..?

[bruce]

Aussie cars don't have the wiring for the Canadian DRL relay.
I wired it up manually with a fleabay DRL controller (blinker option).

[LiteIsRite]

I've already found the LED spots are bright enough to do the job as DRLs in the front parker sockets.

I wired it up manually with a fleabay DRL controller (blinker option).

Yeah, I've just done this myself, using (supposedly) 600 lumen LED T10 bulbs. Still not bright enough to compare with modern, OEM, DRLs but enough to make me feel the car is more noticeable to other drivers. For $20 all up, it's certainly better than nothing.

[bruce]

I've wired up my front indicators as DRLs and blinker (not the T10 parker).

[Mr Morlock]

Front indicator ie turn signal as a drl- what does that mean?

[Smacca]

Are you guys referring to installing a single LED bulb with dual colour diodes (Amber and white) into your indicator lens that switches between a DRL and indicator when activated?

Something like this?


http://www.autolismo.com/led_7440.html

[bruce]

NA does not have the wiring to control a dual globe (NBs might?)
I've done similar-amber indicator, indicates - amber inidicator stays on as DRL. Used a DRL controller and rejigged the wiring.

[hks_kansei]

NA does not have the wiring to control a dual globe (NBs might?)

Nope, separate indicator and parker bulb on NB.


In saying that, the twin bulb show above probably requires some wiring changes, it may just be as simple as clipping the indicator wires and attaching them to the parking lamp bulb housing.

[The Mariner]

Hi Guys,

Sorry to drag-up an old thread that many might think has been done to death, but I thought I'd post what I have done for DRL's on my NC1. It may or may not be legal and it may or may not suit everybody but I'm posting it just in case it helps someone.

I tried using LED's in the parkers as DRL's but the projector lens made them look dull grey rather than bright white so I abandoned that idea. Yes, I could just run with headlights on but, for me, burning 55w globes all the time means they might be burn-out when I actually need them at night. I could use LED globes to reduce the power used & increase the life, but LED's just don't seem to work well in headlights. Both these ideas also needed me to remember to turn them on when I get in the car & I'd prefer something more automatic.

The fog lamps seemed the next alternative. I could replace the globes with LED's & they aren't projector so I should have a nice, white light. Stock wiring will only allow the fogs on with the headlights & there are plenty of mods on the WWW to change that behavior, but I wanted to go a step further.

With the fog light switch turned on I wanted the fogs to come on with the ignition & automatically go off with the parking lights/head lights or the fog light switch. To do this I needed to:

1).. Add a 5-pin relay in the Normally Closed condition into the fog light switching circuit, powered by a hot ignition-on wire.
2).. Tap a wire from the parking light on circuit to open the relay & break the fog lamp on circuit.

5-pin relays have the terminals labeled, so the pinouts are:

85 - to earth
86 - hot wire when the parkers are on.
30 - fused, hot ignition-on.
87a - normally closed power out.
87 - not used.

To splice the relay to the cars wiring I:

- Remove a 15mm length of insulation only (don't cut the wire !)from the black/green wire going to my LH parking light & soldered a wire to it. This goes to relay terminal 86.
- Dismantled the fuse box to gain access to the fog light relay on the bottom level. Guides on the WWW say to cut the purple/white wire but on my NC1 it's a black/green wire. Cut the wire about 30mm from the back of the relay block & tape-up the end that's part of the wiring bundle. Bare the end of the short wire & solder a wire to it. This goes to relay terminal 87a. Re-fit the lower relay block.
- For an ignition-on hot wire, you can use any of the top 3 10A fuses in the 2nd from the right row of fuses. On mine they are marked 'EGI INJ', 'EGI COMP1' and 'EGI COMP2'. Remove a 15mm length of insulation only (don't cut the wire !)from any of the wires on either side of the fuse & solder a wire to it. This goes to relay terminal 30. Re-fit the top fuse block.
- Crimp a ring terminal to a short length of wire & fit it under the fuse box retaining bolt. This is the earth & goes to relay terminal 85.

Things to note:

- Remember to Insulate any bare wires left after soldering.
- We are only tapping into the switching circuit of the fog lights, not the power circuits. Wires don't need to be big to handle a lot of current.

This gives the following behavior:

- Ignition off, fog light switch on, parking lights on - no fog lights.
- Ignition off, fog light switch on, headlights on - no fog lights.
- Ignition on, fog light switch off - no fog lights.
- Ignition on, fog light switch on - fog lights on.
- Ignition on, fog light switch on, parking lights on - no fog lights.
- Ignition on, fog light switch on, headlights on - no fog lights.
- Ignition on, fog light switch off, parking lights on - no fog lights.
- Ignition on, fog light switch off, headlights on - no fog lights.

So basically, all you need to do is leave the fog light switched on.... the fog lights will come on only when the ignition is on & the rest of the lights are off and they will automatically turn off whenever the parking lights or headlights are turned on.

Hope this helps someone