Having issue replacing tyres

tjongster · Postby **tjongster** » Sun Dec 06, 2015 5:48 pm

Hey guys new here sorry if this sounds newb
I am in the midst of changing my tires and it seems the tires i bought the usually spanner or L tool to remove the original mazda wheels are too big to fit

My wheels are rpta rbx15x7 +25s

Any help will be greatly appreciated

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hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Sun Dec 06, 2015 6:19 pm

Similar issue with my ms03 wheels.

Options are

longer wheelnuts
Thinner wheelnuts
Thinner socket.

I originally used a spark plug socket that I ground the outside down, but then bought some thinner wheelnuts so I could use a regular socket (current nuts are 19mm 949 racing vs the 21mm stock ones)

tjongster · Postby **tjongster** » Sun Dec 06, 2015 6:28 pm

Any sites i can get these thinner wheel nuts from ? Or those super cheap stock them ?

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hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Sun Dec 06, 2015 8:17 pm

I got mine from a group buy ages ago.

Super cheap stock nuts but never looked at them in detail to see what kinds

The American · Postby **The American** » Sun Dec 06, 2015 8:23 pm

Have you tried a basic socket instead of the wheel brace? You might find one of those to be slim enough to do the job.

tjongster · Postby **tjongster** » Sun Dec 06, 2015 9:01 pm

sorry the american ! what dya mean by a socket instead of the wheel brace ?

The American · Postby **The American** » Sun Dec 06, 2015 9:15 pm

I mean one of these - you might find with a quality socket the wall is thinner and may be more able to access the space you have:

you should be able to by them individually from an auto parts store

The American · Postby **The American** » Sun Dec 06, 2015 9:17 pm

I just had a second look at your photo - you might indeed need to go the sparkplug socket or longer wheel nuts route (s)

MXO005 · Postby **MXO005** » Sun Dec 06, 2015 9:20 pm

I ended up buying these:

https://www.tradetools.com/product-rang ... -17mm-19mm
Trade Tools actually sold the 19mm I needed individually.
Still needed to remove the plastic/protective cover to get on a couple of nuts.

https://www.tradetools.com/product-rang ... wivel-head

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Mon Dec 07, 2015 10:32 am

Just a warning to people buying the long armed breaker bar/socket handle.

when tightening the nuts DONT just rip on the handle as tight as you can. It's a good way to snap a stud, or strip a nut.

it wont feel like it, but there's a lot more leverage on those handles than the X shaped wheel brace, or the factory wheel brace. (and you don't need to super tighten with them either)

Lokiel · Postby **Lokiel** » Mon Dec 07, 2015 11:22 am

hks_kansei wrote:Just a warning to people buying the long armed breaker bar/socket handle.

when tightening the nuts DONT just rip on the handle as tight as you can. It's a good way to snap a stud, or strip a nut.

it wont feel like it, but there's a lot more leverage on those handles than the X shaped wheel brace, or the factory wheel brace. (and you don't need to super tighten with them either)

That's good advice but it's also useful to get an actual feel for how tight they need to be and the only way to know this is using a torque wrench in conjunction with your tool of choice.

When I bought my 6ULs I also purchased the aluminium lug nuts which had warnings against over-tightening so I purchased a torque wrench to ensure I didn't do this.
After installing the wheels the first time I was shocked when I realised that for years I'd been over-tightening my lug nuts - usually by tightening the lug nuts firmly by hand, then giving the bar a couple of presses with my foot - lucky they were steel!