What race seat to be 2 inches lower than Sparco Sprint?

The American · Postby **The American** » Tue Dec 01, 2015 7:08 am

Dave have a look at these photos from AGI's face book page. It's a lowered floor pan in an mx5:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.361097430651411.83405.240570816037407&type=3

StillIC · Postby **StillIC** » Tue Dec 01, 2015 8:07 am

Apu wrote:Lotus Elise seats, using the Elise rails, bolted onto plates to fit MX5 mounting points get pretty low.

The problem with the Elise seat is that, while it can touch the floor if mounted far enough forward, if your legs are approaching the length of mine it bumps into the rear mounting 'humps'. It then has to lift up to get over these as the base of the Elise seat is too wide to fit between the humps. How do I know?....

For Sale, brand new LE Pro seat to suit Series 1 Elise. $1000.

mx5002 · Postby **mx5002** » Tue Dec 01, 2015 12:57 pm

I have a Velo milano standard size. It's bolted to some universal slider's and then to a set of brackets I bought from ebay that bolt to the factory mounts. It's much lower than a sparco on standard rails.

Juicy HiC · Postby **Juicy HiC** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 8:56 pm

Bit of a thread steal, but what seat rails have people used to install a Sparco with a normal seat belt stalk in an NB? Tried the standard NB rails and the part where the factory seat belt stalk is to close to the seat and won't allow me to tighten the bolts to the seat.

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davekmoore · Postby **davekmoore** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 10:51 pm

NA stalk bolted to the tunnel. Can then be used with race or road seat.

Juicy HiC · Postby **Juicy HiC** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 11:12 pm

Great thanks. Did you just drill a hole or is there already one there?

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MattR · Postby **MattR** » Thu Dec 17, 2015 2:48 pm

Dan wrote:
davekmoore wrote:Sounds like you already know you can get lower without the sliders so if you don't want to do that keep it as your last choice.
Yes, my finely honed body moves in and out of the car more easily and better avoids the steering wheel with the seat all the way back. I then fasten the harness and move the seat forward on the sliders as hard as possible against the harness. This means I never have to adjust the harness.
Makes sense, I've never heard of someone using that method before

Please don't do this. You think the harness is tight enough, it isn't.....

For your own safety do the harness up and adjust properly.

Once adjusted properly the hip belts should not need readjusting, unless you change drivers. Proper fitting of the harness should alleviate any inconvenience in doing this.

The shoulder straps should be pulled tight once you are in position and sitting in the car. The straps should be pulled as tight as physically possible. In open wheeler cars this means you sit in the car someone else straddles the car and pulls them tight until you can't breathe and then tightens a bit more.

For sedans and sports cars the straps are placed so the driver can pull them as tight as physically possible.

If, for whatever reason and no matter how small the probability, something does go tits up you want your safety equipment to provide the most and best protection it can.

Dan · Postby **Dan** » Thu Dec 17, 2015 4:42 pm

^ Yeh I agree, when I read it I couldn't even figure out how it saves any time. In my car I loosen the straps and put them over the sides of the seat after every run which doesn't take much time and then tighten them in the car after I get back in which is is a few seconds.

I think it needs to be pulled tight even more so with a HANS too. I know my HANS really gets some downforce when I tighten the belts in a way that I don't think would be possible to do by sliding the seat forward since the harness 'pulls' the hans down over my shoulders.

davekmoore · Postby **davekmoore** » Thu Dec 17, 2015 8:32 pm

Previous method used to work fine by getting the belts tight with the seat one notch back from my driving position. Going back to the end of the runner and then taking a run up at it would just allow the seat to catch on the next notch with the harness as tight as it could be.

Anyway, this plan no longer works because the base plates added to the floor for the new higher roll bar don't allow the seat to go any further backwards than my normal seating position. So now I loosen the shoulder straps before unfastening and tighten them again once in the seat, and never move the seat.

greenMachine · Postby **greenMachine** » Thu Dec 17, 2015 11:14 pm

I do this, but a little differently. I start with the seat all the way back, shoulder straps slacked right off. Move seat forward, using clutch pedal as reference point (it goes down further than the brakes) with the lap/crutch belts done up. Then I tighten the shoulder straps, to the point where I am unable to move my torso/tighten any further.

This may change, as I now have a quick release steering wheel, and no longer need to slide the seat back to be able to easily exit the car.

:mrgreen: