Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]
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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]
Ever since reading RevLimiter's review(http://revlimiter.net/blog/2015/07/garage-star-delrin-door-bushing-review/) of the GarageStar door bushings, and the many subsequent forum postings on them, I knew I wanted a set. Omgpham posted that he had just received a new batch so I jumped on them.
I'd read various accounts of people having sticking issues with them, not getting them to fit quite right. Some people found the door would require substantially more force to close, a loud pop on opening the doors, or difficulty latching. But those who had no troubles report that they do a lot to stiffen the chassis and reduce NVH, rattles and shake. I went in with my eyes open for issues and a few ideas on how to fit them.
I marked the top and bottom of the existing bushings with some painter's tape before removal, then fit the GS bushings to match. I only tightened the bolts enough to lightly hold the bushing in place - I could easily move them by hand. I opened and closed the door a couple of times to test the fit, reposition as necessery, tightened the bolts some (still able to adjust by hand) and repeated. I had to move the bushing around a little bit, but soon found the ideal spot and snugged them down.
Same process for the passenger side, but it didn't want to latch well, and gave a pop on opening. Some people suggested giving the door a few almighty slams to fix this. Presumably this bashes the door cup into shape, and probably moves the bushing into the ideal location too. I didn't quite go to "almighty" levels of slam, but I did give a few good hard closes, each close got easier than the previous ones, and by the third slam the door was as stock effort. DON'T do this until you've got the bushing as close to perfect positioning as you can!
I gave the drivers side a couple of hard slams too, to match, and now both doors close with stock effort, and the results are quite good. The SE is the most braced out of the factory, and I do have a roll bar already so the improvements in my car may not be as noticable as earlier/less braced cars, but there are definite improvements in NVH, especially noticable when going over onesided/lopsided bumps in the road.
I need to clean inside my doors!
Next up, guss_bruss organised a group buy of some washer nozzles from the Mazda Tribute. Emily already has these on her SE and by all acounts they provide a much better spray than the stock ones. My stock nozzles were kinda clogged and not doing a great job as it was, so for $30 I figured this was a no-brainer.
The replacement nozzles are about the same size as stock, so they won't stand out as an obvious or ugly mod. The old ones come out quite easily and the new ones go in even easier. 5 minute job and done.
Anyone know what do about the wiper arms to clean them up? Spray them?
Finally, I gave the engine bay a bit of a wipe down. The rocker cover was looking quite dark in particular. No pictures for this, but it definitely looks a lot better.
Now just patiently awaiting the return of my rear shocks from Otomoto. They've told me the springs look like they've been fully compressed and bindded a few times, also missing dust boots - which I'm sure I never had, even looked at some photos from the installation at the dodgy day. I think Ben at Otomoto will service the shocks and supply some new springs. The theroy is either the springs weren't the right lenght or they weren't the spec'd weight, so the replacements should address all that.
I'd read various accounts of people having sticking issues with them, not getting them to fit quite right. Some people found the door would require substantially more force to close, a loud pop on opening the doors, or difficulty latching. But those who had no troubles report that they do a lot to stiffen the chassis and reduce NVH, rattles and shake. I went in with my eyes open for issues and a few ideas on how to fit them.
I marked the top and bottom of the existing bushings with some painter's tape before removal, then fit the GS bushings to match. I only tightened the bolts enough to lightly hold the bushing in place - I could easily move them by hand. I opened and closed the door a couple of times to test the fit, reposition as necessery, tightened the bolts some (still able to adjust by hand) and repeated. I had to move the bushing around a little bit, but soon found the ideal spot and snugged them down.
Same process for the passenger side, but it didn't want to latch well, and gave a pop on opening. Some people suggested giving the door a few almighty slams to fix this. Presumably this bashes the door cup into shape, and probably moves the bushing into the ideal location too. I didn't quite go to "almighty" levels of slam, but I did give a few good hard closes, each close got easier than the previous ones, and by the third slam the door was as stock effort. DON'T do this until you've got the bushing as close to perfect positioning as you can!
I gave the drivers side a couple of hard slams too, to match, and now both doors close with stock effort, and the results are quite good. The SE is the most braced out of the factory, and I do have a roll bar already so the improvements in my car may not be as noticable as earlier/less braced cars, but there are definite improvements in NVH, especially noticable when going over onesided/lopsided bumps in the road.
I need to clean inside my doors!
Next up, guss_bruss organised a group buy of some washer nozzles from the Mazda Tribute. Emily already has these on her SE and by all acounts they provide a much better spray than the stock ones. My stock nozzles were kinda clogged and not doing a great job as it was, so for $30 I figured this was a no-brainer.
The replacement nozzles are about the same size as stock, so they won't stand out as an obvious or ugly mod. The old ones come out quite easily and the new ones go in even easier. 5 minute job and done.
Anyone know what do about the wiper arms to clean them up? Spray them?
Finally, I gave the engine bay a bit of a wipe down. The rocker cover was looking quite dark in particular. No pictures for this, but it definitely looks a lot better.
Now just patiently awaiting the return of my rear shocks from Otomoto. They've told me the springs look like they've been fully compressed and bindded a few times, also missing dust boots - which I'm sure I never had, even looked at some photos from the installation at the dodgy day. I think Ben at Otomoto will service the shocks and supply some new springs. The theroy is either the springs weren't the right lenght or they weren't the spec'd weight, so the replacements should address all that.
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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]
i just did my arms .
i scotch-brighted the powdery parts.
blended in the painted to bare area with wet and dry.
cleaned the lot with thinners.
sprayed the bare parts with rattle can primer.
re sprayed the lot with Satin black(closer to stock).
mine looks good as new,but magpies fix would last longer i imagine
TIP...scribe a line over the top of the male and female splines so you only need to re-fit once.
its harder than you think to realign them with the wipers arms sprung up.
i scotch-brighted the powdery parts.
blended in the painted to bare area with wet and dry.
cleaned the lot with thinners.
sprayed the bare parts with rattle can primer.
re sprayed the lot with Satin black(closer to stock).
mine looks good as new,but magpies fix would last longer i imagine
TIP...scribe a line over the top of the male and female splines so you only need to re-fit once.
its harder than you think to realign them with the wipers arms sprung up.
- ManiacLachy
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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]
Sounds good. I will clear the calendar next time a dodgy day comes up! Thanks Mark and Pete.
Also, my coilovers just turned up! With any luck I'll get them back in this weekend and decide if I sell them on for someone else's cheap low, or if I keep them.
Also, my coilovers just turned up! With any luck I'll get them back in this weekend and decide if I sell them on for someone else's cheap low, or if I keep them.
- ManiacLachy
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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]
I finally got off my butt yesterday and did something about protecting my exposed oil cooler. I have the FlyinMiata oil cooler, it attaches to the steering rack, and requires a hole to be cut in the splash guard to fit properly. While this does allow some cool air to actually reach the cooler, it leaves the oil cooler exposed to road debris and could potentially be a big problem should a rock pierce it.
I bought some aluminium fly-screen from Bunnings, then trimmed it to the width of the hole in the splash guard, and shortened it so it would more than cover the hole. I drilled two holes at the top edge of the oil cooler hole, and made use of an existing hole at the bottom. I attached the mesh at the top on the outside, then fed it through the gap, and attached it on the inside, making sure to let the mesh bow out a little to accommodate the oil cooler once in place. I used some 1/2" x 1/4" nut and bolts, with washers on each side.
The splash guard fit back in place quite nicely; the mesh is looser around the cooler than necessary, but it will protect it from flying rocks well enough.
A duct that channels air directly into the cooler would be best, but I didn't have the time to mess around with templates and the such, especially given my lack of fabrication skills. This is a cheap and easy fix, which is all I require for now. I have a road trip to Bundaberg this weekend, and I was a bit concerned about leaving the cooler exposed on such a drive, but now I feel it should be safe.
While I was installing the tow hooks a few weeks ago I had to remove the splash guard to get access to the baby teeth. I noticed some oil on the bottom of the engine, above the steering rack (I'm not sure what this is, maybe the oil pan? It's forward of the sump). As the cooler and filter relocation had just been installed I was weary of possible leaks, so I felt around as best I could but couldn't locate a source of this oil. I thought it might have been run off from when the oil filter was removed, I wipped it clean but made a note to check on it next time. Well, sure enough there was more oil there yesterday, so I have a leak somewhere . Not a major one, but a steady seep of oil is coming from somewhere. I think I'll ask the guys at Auto Plus to look it over in the new year and see if they can locate it, should be a bit easier on a lift.
I bought some aluminium fly-screen from Bunnings, then trimmed it to the width of the hole in the splash guard, and shortened it so it would more than cover the hole. I drilled two holes at the top edge of the oil cooler hole, and made use of an existing hole at the bottom. I attached the mesh at the top on the outside, then fed it through the gap, and attached it on the inside, making sure to let the mesh bow out a little to accommodate the oil cooler once in place. I used some 1/2" x 1/4" nut and bolts, with washers on each side.
The splash guard fit back in place quite nicely; the mesh is looser around the cooler than necessary, but it will protect it from flying rocks well enough.
A duct that channels air directly into the cooler would be best, but I didn't have the time to mess around with templates and the such, especially given my lack of fabrication skills. This is a cheap and easy fix, which is all I require for now. I have a road trip to Bundaberg this weekend, and I was a bit concerned about leaving the cooler exposed on such a drive, but now I feel it should be safe.
While I was installing the tow hooks a few weeks ago I had to remove the splash guard to get access to the baby teeth. I noticed some oil on the bottom of the engine, above the steering rack (I'm not sure what this is, maybe the oil pan? It's forward of the sump). As the cooler and filter relocation had just been installed I was weary of possible leaks, so I felt around as best I could but couldn't locate a source of this oil. I thought it might have been run off from when the oil filter was removed, I wipped it clean but made a note to check on it next time. Well, sure enough there was more oil there yesterday, so I have a leak somewhere . Not a major one, but a steady seep of oil is coming from somewhere. I think I'll ask the guys at Auto Plus to look it over in the new year and see if they can locate it, should be a bit easier on a lift.
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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]
Sorry for the big post, a few things backed up
I put my "serviced" rear HSD coilovers back into the car over the christmas break, and lowered the car back down to a nice height. The shocks were fitted with nice new, longer 6kg springs as requested, and as expected I can still get a nice drop with the longer springs.
I also decided to replace the nuts that hold the shocks in the car as they were just a little mashed
The ride was instantly firmer, but there was no sign of the crash or knock that had been driving me crazy...
That is there was no sign for about 3 days. Then the knock came back It seems when the shocks are cold, like first thing in the morning, or in wet weather, they knock about like clonkers. Keep in mind, it's summer, so when I say "cold" I don't actually mean COLD. They make me angry on the way to the gym at 4:45am.
These will not last long now. I'm looking into replacements, looking at smashing open the piggy bank.
On to happier news! My Mum has been holidaying in the US, visiting my Sister, so I had some bits from 949 sent to her to bring home. Only small stuff that would fit in her suitcase. Trust me, if a set of 6ULs or a pair of XIDAs would have fit I might have ordered them I got some new lug nuts, a new pair of endlinks for the front shocks, some Magnacor 8.5 plug leads and a set of braided brake lines.
Lugs are on, and I like them. Plug leads are in and I felt some placebo affect for about 2 minutes Endlinks will go in before too long. But I'm not sure about the brake lines, I never done a set before and I'm not sure if this is something I can do. I wouldn't want to mess it up as I'm parked at the top of a steep driveway. How hard is this? *cough* dodgy day *cough*
Lugs are noticably lighter than the stocks despite being bigger.
And finally, I bought a new trolley jack! https://www.kincrome.com.au/trolley-jack-2700kg-low-pro This is a new "Super Low Profile" 2700kg unit from Kincrome, 70mm to 508mm. This thing will do nicely to replace my cheap SCA jack and will raise the car up to a decent height. Still won't reach to the cross member or diff without ramps. Also, very heavy at around 45kg!
You can clearly see how much more height can be had!
And how much lower it starts.
Kind of a big foot-print though
A good morning was had a the first Cars and Coffee of 2016, here's my car parked with a GT40, those things are low!
I put my "serviced" rear HSD coilovers back into the car over the christmas break, and lowered the car back down to a nice height. The shocks were fitted with nice new, longer 6kg springs as requested, and as expected I can still get a nice drop with the longer springs.
I also decided to replace the nuts that hold the shocks in the car as they were just a little mashed
The ride was instantly firmer, but there was no sign of the crash or knock that had been driving me crazy...
That is there was no sign for about 3 days. Then the knock came back It seems when the shocks are cold, like first thing in the morning, or in wet weather, they knock about like clonkers. Keep in mind, it's summer, so when I say "cold" I don't actually mean COLD. They make me angry on the way to the gym at 4:45am.
These will not last long now. I'm looking into replacements, looking at smashing open the piggy bank.
On to happier news! My Mum has been holidaying in the US, visiting my Sister, so I had some bits from 949 sent to her to bring home. Only small stuff that would fit in her suitcase. Trust me, if a set of 6ULs or a pair of XIDAs would have fit I might have ordered them I got some new lug nuts, a new pair of endlinks for the front shocks, some Magnacor 8.5 plug leads and a set of braided brake lines.
Lugs are on, and I like them. Plug leads are in and I felt some placebo affect for about 2 minutes Endlinks will go in before too long. But I'm not sure about the brake lines, I never done a set before and I'm not sure if this is something I can do. I wouldn't want to mess it up as I'm parked at the top of a steep driveway. How hard is this? *cough* dodgy day *cough*
Lugs are noticably lighter than the stocks despite being bigger.
And finally, I bought a new trolley jack! https://www.kincrome.com.au/trolley-jack-2700kg-low-pro This is a new "Super Low Profile" 2700kg unit from Kincrome, 70mm to 508mm. This thing will do nicely to replace my cheap SCA jack and will raise the car up to a decent height. Still won't reach to the cross member or diff without ramps. Also, very heavy at around 45kg!
You can clearly see how much more height can be had!
And how much lower it starts.
Kind of a big foot-print though
A good morning was had a the first Cars and Coffee of 2016, here's my car parked with a GT40, those things are low!
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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]
That is a bad cough you have.... get onto Steampunk with your Dodgy Day request and include some dates?
Steampunk will find a location, however if nobody puts their hand up guess where it could be...
Steampunk will find a location, however if nobody puts their hand up guess where it could be...
- Lokiel
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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]
I'm sorry to hear about your continuing dissatisfaction with the HSDs because I fear that I may have been responsible for pointing you in that direction; I certainly would have bought them over my BC BR Series coilovers if they were available when I bought them due to the fact that they have more rear travel than the BCs and I'd read they were well regarded in other cars. After your experience I will never mention them to anyone - the fact that they're still problematic, even after vendor support, is just not good enough.
The OEM rear shock nuts should really be thrown out if you ever need to untighten them for any reason, they round of incredibly easy and are a pain to get off. When I helped Crapweasel with his, the only socket/spanner that worked at all was my Kinchrome rattlegun socket once we'd managed to get it well enough onto the nut, probably because there was almost zero slack between the nut and socket.
Now that you have aluminium lug nuts, you MUST use a torque wrench to tighten them correctly because they'll round-off easily. They need far less tightening than you'd expect (see the 949racing site for specs); you can't really just get away with overtightening them like you can with steel nuts. Hang onto the steel nuts and swap them back onto the car if you ever need to get new tyres or a wheel balance because those monkeys will just "rattle-gun tighten" the nuts back on the car and f-up your aluminium lug nuts (even if you give them explicit instructions on how much torque to use).
I've got the generation before your Kincrome jack and it's very similar. It doesn't need much additional height to get under the front cross member so consider making some low ramps out of wood to drive up or just use the scissor jack to jack the car up a little before sliding the jack under the front cross member. The low jack was expensive and it's massive but it certainly makes life easier, especially when you just want to do a small job under the car and most of the time is spent jacking the car up/down and putting it on/off jacks/stands.
I chuckled when I saw your other SCA jack because I bought that one too first - for some reason I needed to top it up with hydraulic fluid every time I needed to use it. It didn't leak and I still have no idea where the fluid went - does it evaporate?
The OEM rear shock nuts should really be thrown out if you ever need to untighten them for any reason, they round of incredibly easy and are a pain to get off. When I helped Crapweasel with his, the only socket/spanner that worked at all was my Kinchrome rattlegun socket once we'd managed to get it well enough onto the nut, probably because there was almost zero slack between the nut and socket.
Now that you have aluminium lug nuts, you MUST use a torque wrench to tighten them correctly because they'll round-off easily. They need far less tightening than you'd expect (see the 949racing site for specs); you can't really just get away with overtightening them like you can with steel nuts. Hang onto the steel nuts and swap them back onto the car if you ever need to get new tyres or a wheel balance because those monkeys will just "rattle-gun tighten" the nuts back on the car and f-up your aluminium lug nuts (even if you give them explicit instructions on how much torque to use).
I've got the generation before your Kincrome jack and it's very similar. It doesn't need much additional height to get under the front cross member so consider making some low ramps out of wood to drive up or just use the scissor jack to jack the car up a little before sliding the jack under the front cross member. The low jack was expensive and it's massive but it certainly makes life easier, especially when you just want to do a small job under the car and most of the time is spent jacking the car up/down and putting it on/off jacks/stands.
I chuckled when I saw your other SCA jack because I bought that one too first - for some reason I needed to top it up with hydraulic fluid every time I needed to use it. It didn't leak and I still have no idea where the fluid went - does it evaporate?
Don't worry about dying, worry about not living!
Garage Thread: http://www.mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=76716
Garage Thread: http://www.mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=76716
- ManiacLachy
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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]
Lokiel, I asked quite a few people for advice on the coilovers, and I appreciated everyone's genuine input - in no way do I blame you for my decision to buy them or their shoddy quality. I appreciated your insight into the extended tophats, which I hadn't noticed when browsing. Noone else seems to have had the trouble I've had, but I certainly wouldn't be recommending them to anyone who asks, for very little extra you could have some MCAs afterall!
You sure do need a deep socket for the shock nuts, also, I went and bought a set of the Irwin grip sockets you've mentioned because I was certain I was about to round a few off quite badly. The Irwins aren't quite deep enough though, so I had to put a 1/2" socket around the Irwin! Only just had enough room!
I always use a torque wrench to seat my lugs, and then again after a day or two to ensure they remain snug But it's sound advice for everyone. The longer lugs sit better in the socket too, the short stock ones wobbled a bit and it was hard to get a good fit.
MCM posted a video on making wooden ramps recently on their MCM2 Youtube channel that's given me some inspiration. I think I'll make that a project soon, it should do the job quite handily.
You sure do need a deep socket for the shock nuts, also, I went and bought a set of the Irwin grip sockets you've mentioned because I was certain I was about to round a few off quite badly. The Irwins aren't quite deep enough though, so I had to put a 1/2" socket around the Irwin! Only just had enough room!
I always use a torque wrench to seat my lugs, and then again after a day or two to ensure they remain snug But it's sound advice for everyone. The longer lugs sit better in the socket too, the short stock ones wobbled a bit and it was hard to get a good fit.
MCM posted a video on making wooden ramps recently on their MCM2 Youtube channel that's given me some inspiration. I think I'll make that a project soon, it should do the job quite handily.
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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]
GT40 = 40 inches high.
I don't think the 'new' version achieved that.
I don't think the 'new' version achieved that.
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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]
I do recall hearing that, on Topgear no doubt. But until you see it in person you don't realise just how small that is (if indeed the replica was to that height)
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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]
This afternoon, at a set of lights while stationary the 4WD in front of me reversed into me. Not hard, but it did damage to my bumper. We exchanged details, I got a shot of their licence plate, and the other driver's licence. However, I made a big mistake and did not get a shot of the back of the licence with the address, and I didn't get a phone number. Because of this, I'm on the hook for the excess. Aparently it's not worth the time for the insurance company to use the information provided (licence number, rego number, full name, car make/model) to find this out - eaiser to just stick me with the cost.
Does anyone have advice for finding this information? I've googled the person, and found what might be their Facebook page and sent a message. Is calling Police Link an option, as I didn't get the full details from them that should be exchanged in an accident? If details aren't exchanged, the Police can act as intermediaries, but in this case we did exchange details, just not the fulll details. Other ideas?
I'm with Shannons. They don't have an approved repairer near me, but I can get a quote and send it to them for approval. I only need one quote, so that's good. Does anyone have any suggestions on the Brisbane Northside? Cheers.
Does anyone have advice for finding this information? I've googled the person, and found what might be their Facebook page and sent a message. Is calling Police Link an option, as I didn't get the full details from them that should be exchanged in an accident? If details aren't exchanged, the Police can act as intermediaries, but in this case we did exchange details, just not the fulll details. Other ideas?
I'm with Shannons. They don't have an approved repairer near me, but I can get a quote and send it to them for approval. I only need one quote, so that's good. Does anyone have any suggestions on the Brisbane Northside? Cheers.
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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]
You've collected enough info. Insurance coys make requests to the rego authorities everyday. Put the pressure on Shannons.
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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]
You have a shot of the other driver's licence and the number plate...more than enough!
- bear2230
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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]
If you are still stuck in a few days shot me an email and I could get the info you need from a police mate.
Shannon's have always been great with all my claims. This is a shock to hear.
Richard.
Shannon's have always been great with all my claims. This is a shock to hear.
Richard.
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