The Kimball Project

[Ice88]

Those headers look great... such large primaries. Can't wait to see the powerband for this setup.

Is this car for street or only track work? I find on my car, if you're running an oil cooler then there isn't much need for a massive radiator when its N/A. My car runs cool with the little Honda one but I don't sit idling in traffic.

You could still get an ASI, just see if it can be discounted a bit... and if it leaks get it welded up. All the other radiators around tend to be in the $400-500 range.

Thanks, they cost a pretty penny but they look fantastic and am immensely happy with how they look.

The car is actually for the street, should it be? Probably not. The car has no air con, the engine idles like a rotary, its cantankerous at anything under 3k, doesn't like cruising at low revs in traffic (it essentially bunny hops). You absolutely hate it, until you go to drive home or go on a cruise and your all smiles.

Having said that hoping a proper tune will help resolve alot of the issues the previous tune had (it was tuned by a professional )

Tempted to try get a set of your brackets made, and rig a radiator up and then create a cold feed to the intake manifold and hopefully get some positive pressure. But I kinda wanted to finish the build first before farking with it

The engine has a pretty poor stroke, so anything north of 7.7k and you start counting engine life in hours like a race engine. The dimensions etc etc, should be tuned for 7-7.2k, with it petering out right around red line.

EDIT: I totally didn't think of welding it... Refund came through today. Damn.

Interested in the headers as well.

Hoping to get the car to the tuners in January, I'm just too damn busy with birthdays, weddings and christmas stuff, to finish it before then. Also still need to sort intake >.<

EDIT: Oh and thank you both.

[madjak]

My headers are very similar. Large diameter, longer primaries into a 4-1 collector.

The problem with using my radiator setup, is that if does start getting hot then all that work is for nothing. It's a bit of a risk to use on a street car and you might find yourself re-working it back to stock again to fit in a full width radiator.

I originally did it so that I could run an air dam on one side for the intake, but still haven't gotten around to making it. I also thought that in the future it would be a great spot to squeeze in an intercooler for a Rotrex.

[3gress]

The car is actually for the street, should it be? Probably not. The car has no air con, the engine idles like a rotary, its cantankerous at anything under 3k, doesn't like cruising at low revs in traffic (it essentially bunny hops). You absolutely hate it, until you go to drive home or go on a cruise and your all smiles.

Sounds like the perfect street car.

I was running a 9 row oil cooler in the astina without thermostat. The problem was i'd have to get out and gaffa tape it up to get the engine sufficiently warm when just cruising about, an inline thermostat would have fixed this however i rarely ever saw massive oil temps on aftermarket gauge to warrant a cooler. Perhaps an acummulator is a better alternative for increased oil capacity, the volume helping to keep temps within acceptable tolerances, without the extra plumbing issues of a thermostat system....but then again this is going to be quite the monster. Care to enlighten us on your intake ambitions!?

[Ice88]

My headers are very similar. Large diameter, longer primaries into a 4-1 collector.

The problem with using my radiator setup, is that if does start getting hot then all that work is for nothing. It's a bit of a risk to use on a street car and you might find yourself re-working it back to stock again to fit in a full width radiator.

I originally did it so that I could run an air dam on one side for the intake, but still haven't gotten around to making it. I also thought that in the future it would be a great spot to squeeze in an intercooler for a Rotrex.

Thought had crossed my mind, regarding heat issues. I'll probably buy some penrite radiator flush and flush the stock rad, the engine is pretty clean internally, but the radiator etc are pretty icky so will run it and give it a clean.

Sounds like the perfect street car.

I was running a 9 row oil cooler in the astina without thermostat. The problem was i'd have to get out and gaffa tape it up to get the engine sufficiently warm when just cruising about, an inline thermostat would have fixed this however i rarely ever saw massive oil temps on aftermarket gauge to warrant a cooler. Perhaps an acummulator is a better alternative for increased oil capacity, the volume helping to keep temps within acceptable tolerances, without the extra plumbing issues of a thermostat system....but then again this is going to be quite the monster. Care to enlighten us on your intake ambitions!?

An accumulator isn't really meant to be used as a res, rather its meant to be used to stop premature bearing failure from going around a corner and the pickup inhaling air, causing sudden drop in pressure.

Thing is they aren't cheap, and they aren't exactly small making hiding the plumbing etc irksome.

[Ice88]

Ghetto reminded me that I haven't posted my most recent purchase. About a week ago the following arrived on my door step:


Was quite excited, some photos of the goodies:






Just need to get flange laser cut and then some pipe made to suit the transition from the oval head flange to the round DCOE flange. Once thats done everything can come together, or thats the theory...

[Magpie]

Another ITB build in Queensland.

[3gress]

An accumulator isn't really meant to be used as a res, rather its meant to be used to stop premature bearing failure from going around a corner and the pickup inhaling air, causing sudden drop in pressure.

Thing is they aren't cheap, and they aren't exactly small making hiding the plumbing etc irksome.

You mean the low pressure activated accusump or moroso type? Maybe some custom baffles in the sump or trapdoors might be more pragmatic (and compact), along with a thermostat controlled oil cooler setup to manage heat?
Keen on seeing the inlet design and what advantages you may gain with a bespoke manifold adaptor with regard to runner length issues the rest of us have.

[project.r.racing]

I don't understand the lack of oil capacity on a custom oil pan. It is custom, make it hold what you need.

[Ice88]

I don't understand the lack of oil capacity on a custom oil pan. It is custom, make it hold what you need.

Yeah. It was meant to contain the same volume as stock, but with baffles. Got the baffles, but reduced volume. Will take some photos when i get the pan back from powder coating.

It's something I've only recently considered tbh after seeing the pan. Stupid busy at work, so when i go to work on the car after work I'm usually not thinking on the level.

An accumulator isn't really meant to be used as a res, rather its meant to be used to stop premature bearing failure from going around a corner and the pickup inhaling air, causing sudden drop in pressure.

Thing is they aren't cheap, and they aren't exactly small making hiding the plumbing etc irksome.

You mean the low pressure activated accusump or moroso type? Maybe some custom baffles in the sump or trapdoors might be more pragmatic (and compact), along with a thermostat controlled oil cooler setup to manage heat?
Keen on seeing the inlet design and what advantages you may gain with a bespoke manifold adaptor with regard to runner length issues the rest of us have.

Honestly I'll have the same issues. You need from memory a good distance from the head in order for optimum fuel mixture optimisation. IIRC Jenvey recommend 200mm from the throttle plate.

In regards to plenum etc. I'm just focusing on getting the car running. This build is already taking way longer then I wanted, the car was to be at the fabricators longer then expected, and work/christmas/life is super busy atm so time to work on this is usually late after work.

Going to drop the gearbox and some NB8A brakes off end of week, gearbox needs to be resealed and the brakes will be rebuilt. Still not sure on what pads/rotors to run so any recommendations would be appreciated.

[Magpie]

Brakes/pads (Can of worms time)

If going full track I would suggest DBA T3 rotors matched with Winmax 6.5's on the front and W3's on the rear.

Think about rebuilding the master and proportioning valve as well.

[Ice88]

For anyone who is searching for what injectors to use with your jenvey, ID725-60-14 will work. Which should mean any of your B18 stuff should bolt right in

Brakes/pads (Can of worms time)

If going full track I would suggest DBA T3 rotors matched with Winmax 6.5's on the front and W3's on the rear.

Think about rebuilding the master and proportioning valve as well.

Was looking for something that would allow me to have fun on the track, but primarily a good street pad as the car is a daily

Would they fit the bill? IIRC you are currently driving the mx5 to work? And if you dont mind me asking, what sort of coinage did they set you back?

I had considerd Carbotech XP8 front with Carbotech AX6 rear to ensure more breaking is done in the front vs rear. I assume this is much the same reason you run 6.5s on the front and W3s on the rear?

[3gress]

I gave you the wrong front callipers. Matt had already upgraded the na6 brakes before passing the 5 along, i wasnt aware and picked up a second set. I think you ended up with matts' front callipers and the rears were from the other set. No matter really as they were all in need of an overhaul. Can you let me know where you get them serviced/or buy the seal kits from so i can follow suit?


If you'd like a hand helping with getting everything sorted give me a yell. Emmajay is insisting on brizzy being the holiday destination this year and i'd be quite free to lend a hand.

[Ice88]

I gave you the wrong front callipers. Matt had already upgraded the na6 brakes before passing the 5 along, i wasnt aware and picked up a second set. I think you ended up with matts' front callipers and the rears were from the other set. No matter really as they were all in need of an overhaul. Can you let me know where you get them serviced/or buy the seal kits from so i can follow suit?

If you'd like a hand helping with getting everything sorted give me a yell. Emmajay is insisting on brizzy being the holiday destination this year and i'd be quite free to lend a hand.

I will be having the callipers rebuilt by Commercial Brake and Clutch at present.

Quick update with car, gearbox dropped off to be resealed, 4.1 Torsen with new drive shaft seals installed (nfi if its Torsen 2 or 1), engine retimed as the idler pulleys had collected a little rust on one section and didn't want to risk the belt snapping. Also swapped the cam pulley from stock to modified unit to allow for +/- 6 degrees. Unsure at what point there will be piston/valve relationships so will need to turn over by hand to ensure!

Otherwise some bad news:




Race car weight reduction:


Certainly made my day. Screws for the fuel pump cover are so rusted the head on one came away, when i attempted to undo.

Ordered some replacements parts as i need to swap a few customised parts over:
- new water intake gasket
- new water outlet gaskets ordered
- water o rings for pipes (fun fact, same part number for like every car from BF -> BJ inc MX5 ofc.).
- Found input shaft gasket and o ring.

Need to find:
- New Exedy Throw out bearing
- Continental E85 Sensor

[Magpie]

I have some of those panels (non lightened) at home.

[project.r.racing]

Tetnis anyone?