cam cover advice
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- Racing Driver
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cam cover advice
Hey, i've been working away trying to remove the blasphemous ford badge from my cam cover to replace it with a badge more fitting of its future home. What im stuck on is whether the roadster badge swiped from the rear of my mx5 will withstand being attatched to the cam cover with a couple of judiciously placed closed rivets, similar to how flyin miata attatch their build plates to their cam covers. The roadster badge is what i presume to be chrome plated plastic and i have a few reservations to its ability to withstand the heat radiating from the cam cover. Opinions on what to do with color choice etc are welcomed. It is to reside in a red mx5 and i was thinking red cam cover with polished ribs and letters, with the roadster inset lettering in red.

- smy0003
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Re: cam cover advice
As you said, I wouldn't hold on to much hope for the plastic badge. I reckon it'd flake pretty quickly and you'd be pulling you CAM cover to fix it.
Maybe look into getting a small rectangle of SS sheet laser cut and engraved?
Couldn't cost that much money.
Maybe look into getting a small rectangle of SS sheet laser cut and engraved?
Couldn't cost that much money.
[b]Then: Sunlight Silver NB8B
Now: Chaste White NA8
Now: Chaste White NA8
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Re: cam cover advice
smy0003 wrote:Maybe look into getting a small rectangle of SS sheet laser cut and engraved?
.
Yeah, that is what i am considering. Can anyone suggest a place that will do either a single bespoke piece or limited number in a reasonable timeframe?
- hks_kansei
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Re: cam cover advice
the Roadster badge won't survive the heat.
It will for a while, but will eventually go brittle and likely bubble the chrome.
If the Ford logo is raised you can probably just grind it flat, it will take a fair bit of elbow grease to get it dead flat and invisible afterwards though.
If it's flat then as said, having a small plate made up could be the best option.
It will for a while, but will eventually go brittle and likely bubble the chrome.
If the Ford logo is raised you can probably just grind it flat, it will take a fair bit of elbow grease to get it dead flat and invisible afterwards though.
If it's flat then as said, having a small plate made up could be the best option.
1999 Mazda MX5 - 1989 Honda CT110 (for sale) - 1994 Mazda 626 wagon (GF's)
- bruce
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Re: cam cover advice
I also have a red mx.
I'm going blue or polished for my cover to get some contrast in the bay; )
Good luck with whatever you decide
I'm going blue or polished for my cover to get some contrast in the bay; )
Good luck with whatever you decide
NA6 turbo - 140kw atw - not the most powerful but so much fun 

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Re: cam cover advice
Original NA floormats had the same Roadster badge rivetted into them, but in diecast metal. I'll take a pic for you. Now if you can find an old floor mat ...




’95 NA8
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Re: cam cover advice
buy proper cover. throw poo ford cover in bin.
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Re: cam cover advice
project.r.racing wrote:buy proper cover. throw poo ford cover in bin.
But this one exposes the cam gears ;)
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- hks_kansei
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Re: cam cover advice
speed wrote:project.r.racing wrote:buy proper cover. throw poo ford cover in bin.
But this one exposes the cam gears ;)
There was also a Mazda one that looked much the same, just with Mazda logo.
I can't remember what Mazda it came from, but it was probably a 323 or 626 since it's a B6/BP
1999 Mazda MX5 - 1989 Honda CT110 (for sale) - 1994 Mazda 626 wagon (GF's)
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Re: cam cover advice
This cover came from a lazer lynx, the bpt covers are similar with the raised ribs going lengthways.
I chopped this one to allow access to the cam gears with the intention to use the maruha cam belt cover, however if keith keeps availing awesome parts like the 4.44:1 pretty sick diff he sold me, i might never get around to affording maruha parts.
I have acid etched a few brass detail parts to build scale brass steam engines in the past (don't laugh) i may consider etching a few brass plates of different designs to fit, i'm unsure if it will look hoky in a bay full of alloy and steel.
I chopped this one to allow access to the cam gears with the intention to use the maruha cam belt cover, however if keith keeps availing awesome parts like the 4.44:1 pretty sick diff he sold me, i might never get around to affording maruha parts.
I have acid etched a few brass detail parts to build scale brass steam engines in the past (don't laugh) i may consider etching a few brass plates of different designs to fit, i'm unsure if it will look hoky in a bay full of alloy and steel.
- hks_kansei
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Re: cam cover advice
3gress wrote: I have acid etched a few brass detail parts to build scale brass steam engines in the past (don't laugh) i may consider etching a few brass plates of different designs to fit, i'm unsure if it will look hoky in a bay full of alloy and steel.
Have a crack, depending on whatever else you've got in your engine bay it could work very nicely.
I think it could work well if you paint the valve cover black first.
Alternatively, you could look at some DIY guides to electroplating the brass, from memory it's not that difficult. (No idea on the longevity)
1999 Mazda MX5 - 1989 Honda CT110 (for sale) - 1994 Mazda 626 wagon (GF's)
- zossy1
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Re: cam cover advice
You want the cam cover from the Mazda Astina.


- smy0003
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Re: cam cover advice
What do you have to do for the breather tubes with the astina cam cover?
Looks like it's missing the barbs.
Sorry not sorry for the thread hijack.
Looks like it's missing the barbs.
Sorry not sorry for the thread hijack.
[b]Then: Sunlight Silver NB8B
Now: Chaste White NA8
Now: Chaste White NA8
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Re: cam cover advice
Thats the bpt cover i was reffering to. The vents are there, pvc valve goes on left /intake cam side...if you look past the inlet cam gear along the left side you can just make out a flat spot where pvc valve goes. The other barb is on the rear of cover on intake cam side pointing toward firewall. They look to be removed in the pic though. Have a squizz at the pic i posted and you can see the same layout albeit with an barbs welded on and masked up.
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