Megasquirt owners thread

Postby **NitroDann** » Sun May 17, 2015 10:37 pm

In my opinion yes.

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Mon May 18, 2015 5:03 pm

Ms3pro module is $850 USD and that's a fair bit less than those others mentioned. Admit you'll need to solder it into a case, but if you don't mind doing that, then you can spend the savings on other things

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Ruffian147 · Postby **Ruffian147** » Thu May 21, 2015 10:42 pm

How does the composite logger work? I seem to be getting a lot of noise from the graphs.

Connected to the wideband and street tuned it. No longer running rich.

Red_Bullet · Postby **Red_Bullet** » Sun May 31, 2015 5:15 pm

For the record:

The male plug to fit the NA6 and NA8 factory ecu wiring harness is:

64 Pin Male connector (174518-7)
.040" Contacts (175061-1) (female)
.070" Contacts (173631-6) (female)

Mouser electronics have these.
Type the part numbers into http://www.findchips.com

I've started putting together an ms3pro module to get rid of my xede interceptor piggy back device.

Happy days

Red_Bullet · Postby **Red_Bullet** » Sun Jul 19, 2015 4:12 pm

It's running! Did my first autotune from a gslender base map. Idles smooth at 850 RPM, 14.1 AFR. 440 RX8 injectors Rotrex c30-74 SC. After 1st autotune running around suburb it is already very driveable.

Started first time with no throttle application. Only thing that didn't go to plan was dash board tacho didn't work. Added 10 cent 1K ohm pull up resistor from B+ to IG-, all good.

noobee · Postby **noobee** » Wed Aug 05, 2015 6:36 pm

MSPNP on nb8a.red light on right hand side instrument cluster is winking....2 slows,4 fasts.i'm assuming its telling me the ecu is borked or something similar.is the common solution to pull the globe or is there something more elegant?
Mick

chefie · Postby **chefie** » Sat Aug 29, 2015 2:19 pm

Hi all MS knowledgeable people

I finally have a MSPNP 9900 running on NB8a and have a good base tune on MAP and mfr removed, Tunerstudio auto tune helped Great learning curve !! from Carby and distributor days

I am having trouble getting the AC idle up working on the 3.3 Firmware G wrote ( Hope your reading)

There are a bunch of new features added to this 3.3 release above that of 3.2 (things like MS3 style tuning screens, the AC idle up code I wrote and many ms3 features back ported into the MS2).

settings are

ac idle up ON
Output OFF
Input Launch
Polarity LOW
Delay 200Ms
Min RPM 900
Comp delay 5 sec
Id up duty adder 12.9%
Target RMP adder 200

anyone that has it working that can share the settings would be greatly appreciated

Postby **beavis** » Sat Aug 29, 2015 5:04 pm

post up your tune file?

chefie · Postby **chefie** » Sun Aug 30, 2015 12:14 pm

not sure if its me ? the forum wont allow upload of the .msq file as an attachment

chefie · Postby **chefie** » Sun Aug 30, 2015 1:10 pm

file attached after a bit of reading ???

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Mon Aug 31, 2015 11:23 pm

Send me a PM and I'll explain

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chefie · Postby **chefie** » Tue Sep 01, 2015 9:35 pm

Thanks G PM sent "WIP" in your time

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Fri Sep 04, 2015 10:12 am

So that someone else might benefit, this is part of what I pm'd back...

You'll first need to figure out how the wiring for the AC switch is connecting to the ECU input ports - in the same way, the output for the AC clutch needs to be matched to an ECU output port.

If those are known, you can do a simple test to ensure that the AC (when switched on) shows up on the ECU and then the AC clutch should engage and you know that you've got the ECU controlling the AC on/off.

Next, it is just a simple mater of adjusting the idle up setting to allow for more idle valve duty when the AC is switch on (of which the manual on/off switch and thermo both do the same thing).

The delay is just how long do we wait from switch being turned on, after the idle is given more air (and revs start to increase) do we then trigger the AC clutch... normally about 250 - 400ms is enough... too much and the revs rise and the fall with the clutch. Too little and the clutch comes on and the revs drop first, and then pick up once the engine sees the more air. You time it correctly and the AC will come on and the engine will just idle normally - prefect! Idle duty adder is how much more air you give the engine... again too much and it revs too much, too little and it struggles to catch the clutch load etc. Target RPM adder is saying lets idle higher above normal idle RPM... you can decide if you want the engine to idle a bit more... with aggressive cams you kinda need to, but with a normal stock engine, you'll be ok with leaving that as low or zero.

NicTheMx5 · Postby **NicTheMx5** » Sat Sep 12, 2015 12:06 am

Is there any dynos in Brisbane that can tune megasquirts?
After calling a couple places, they pretty much just laugh at me for using MS.

I know about TAS Performance in Toowoomba, but I'm hoping for something a little more local.