Postby hks_kansei » Mon Aug 31, 2015 5:06 pm
Brand names aside.
For sliding and skidding you'll likely want a clutchpack diff, which is what a KAAZ or CUsco are (and countless others)
Clutch diffs can be setup to suit what you need, both the rate of locking (how much torque it needs before it grabs) and when it locks (1way locks only under acceleration, 2 way locks under accel and decel, but is unlocked at no load cruising, 1.5 way locks under accel, and partially locks under decel)
A Torsen (of either kind) will work better than an open diff, but not as well as a clutchpacker (for this anyway)
a Viscous is something i'd only bother with if it was cheap enough to be almost free.
If money is an issue, the most cost effective is a welded diff, or a spool.
you just open up the existing diff and have the spider gears welded in place.
the diff will be locked in all situations then.
Bear in mind, a welded diff will chatter a lot during corners, puts a lot of strain onto the driveshafts (they cna break) and will also make the rear of the car want to continue straight ahead, which means the car becomes more prone to understeer (BUT, once the rear wheels lose traction like in drifting, it wont be an issue)
Basically, a clutchpack diff is the best option for what you want.
a weldy is the cheapest, but with a lot of downsides (and really, i'd very much suggest not welding it on a car that you use on public roads)
1999 Mazda MX5 - 1989 Honda CT110 (for sale) - 1994 Mazda 626 wagon (GF's)