Patchy's Fawlty Towers risk management. Enter at own risk

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Tue Aug 25, 2015 3:12 pm

Two very well known members here on this forum conspired to send me some hard to get by O'rings for the Air valve & put some extra ones in for good measure. Ive just received them in the mail.
Gentlemen you are very thoughtful & kind. I don't know how to thank you appropriately. You know who you are

Thank you so much.

I hope I can return the favor one day.

Regards

Stefan

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Fri Aug 28, 2015 4:34 pm

And it begins

Clean Airvalve
Repalce Seal on air valve
Clean up Crank Pulley & make TDC mark visible
Give engine & a basic internal clean with engine Conditionaer in the hope to clean up the Idle valve
Check timing
Pro efficiency Burn

Since you guys love pics......here is the engine conditioner recommended by a friend.

First was the air valve
Took it off. Seal seems almost new. I promise, Ive never had the Air Valve off. Ever! I assumed I was going to have all sorts of trouble getting the seal off. It didn't look that dirty either

At least not for 26 years. I've had Christine for 18 years now and I know its never been off. Or got looked at.
I cleaned up the air valve real nice with the engine stuff. It didn't take much effort, Then put it in boiling water, in the hope that if it is stuck It might come loose. Then drowned it in WD 40. As per suggestion of Okibi

While that was happening in the Kitchen, Ive been a little concerned on the timing. I had suspected it was out as I could hear some pinging occasionally.
I got myself a new timing light but couldn't make out the TDC mark on the pulley the other night while checking the timing.
Time for a little clean up.

I know its disgusting. But that's what you get when neglecting a car for close to 6 years.
I cleaned up the pulley & made the TDC mark more obvious with a bit of emery paper. Couldn't find a metal file. Sorry No pics

Then reassembled everything including the now hopefully working AirValve & checked the timing.

The timing was way out. Something like 22 deg BTDC. Thats shocking. I'm ashamed. Anyway that got sorted real quick & then it was time to give the engine an internal flush.

Followed the instructions on the can and checked the Idle , RPM & Timing one more time to be sure & went for a spin.

Christine runs magic. She recites poetry Just like when she was known as Patchy in her hey day's all those years ago. Idle is dead on. Doesn't vary. However I don't know if I fixed the cold Idle issue. I guess I'll find out tomorrow morning. Hopefully its cold.

But I recon most of it is because the idle was out so much.

My son will be impressed when he drives her later.

Next step.

Rust spots. That's next.
Then the beaver panel...... depends if I can afford that red one & if they are willing to post. I'm not keen on postage. Beaver panels are real fragile.
Perhaps I'll start chasing a few more rattles. Without a doubt. The piece of metal securing the glove-box has come off the console. It needs some kind of gluing metal to plastic fix. That question is aimed at anyone who has a sensible solution.

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Fri Aug 28, 2015 5:14 pm

StanTheMan wrote: The piece of metal securing the glove-box has come off the console. It needs some kind of gluing metal to plastic fix. That question is aimed at anyone who has a sensible solution.

Araldite should do the trick.
Just drill a few holes in the metal, and also rough it up so there's plenty to key into.

Even better, if you don't mind a little bit of flex, is sikaflex (sorry, i forget the number, but whichever one is the super-dooper adhesive)

you could use that stuff to glue a housebrick to a window if you wanted for some reason.
I used it to glue a beercan to a rusty gutter and it stuck like you wouldn't believe.... actually, half the beercan is still up there...

(rental property, garage had a leak, the can was a temp fix to plug the hole in the gutter until I could fix it properly)

taminga16 · Postby **taminga16** » Sat Aug 29, 2015 8:45 am

STM,
All of your glue solutions in two tiny bottles.
Greg.

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Sat Aug 29, 2015 2:37 pm

Thank you everyone

Attempt at fixing Air-valve unsuccessful. Car runs much better but no difference in Idle on cold start up.
new Air-valve is on the cards when I can afford it.

Found some Airydite at home. Glued the bracket for glovebox onto the console. Found some other rattles as well.

Found some goodies under the house which I'd forgotten about. Will report later

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Sat Sep 05, 2015 9:37 pm

Time to do some painting

Panel which didn't get done 2 years ago

And the lip which was found under the house a few weeks ago....or was it last Sat?

And the result

And the front lip repaired & fitted :mrgreen:

The boot lid will take some work. It's got very deep moisture bubles in it. I'll attack the another time.
The front bumper also need quite a few screws which are missing. I guess I'll order those with the timing belt kit in a few weeks.

A few brackets also need doing just to make it feel more solid.

Drove around a bit today. She's a pleasure to drive. Using a bit of oil & petrol though.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Sat Sep 05, 2015 9:42 pm

Yes it need more.....less offset. But I can't get the wheels off :roll:

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Fri Sep 11, 2015 9:45 am

Looks like Ive managed to cross thread the spark plug Thread. any suggestions on a repair kit?

will a 14mm kit like this do the trick? or do I need to watch out for something?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/2013144 ... ue&viphx=1

slug_dub · Postby **slug_dub** » Fri Sep 11, 2015 9:55 am

Hooray for the Rod Millen lip :beer:

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Fri Sep 11, 2015 11:24 am

yes the Rod Millen Lip. Ive also got the rear Rod Millen Spoiler.....but its not going back on.

Any suggestions on re threading the spark plug thread?

Rolley · Postby **Rolley** » Fri Sep 11, 2015 11:40 am

Putting a coil into a spark plug thread "on" the car is a real art. Making sure you catch all the filings from the repair and ensure the cylinder is clean before running it again can be a real bitch.
I would really consider calling in the pros on this one. Ring around a couple of local workshops and ask who they use for mobile thread repair. Their reviews will be the best guide on who to choose.

A couple of extra dollars here could save you from having to pull the head if it goes wrong and possibly repair a dent in the bonnet.

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Fri Sep 11, 2015 12:03 pm

awesome thanks Rolley

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Fri Sep 11, 2015 2:16 pm

Rolley wrote:Putting a coil into a spark plug thread "on" the car is a real art. Making sure you catch all the filings from the repair and ensure the cylinder is clean before running it again can be a real bitch.
I would really consider calling in the pros on this one. Ring around a couple of local workshops and ask who they use for mobile thread repair. Their reviews will be the best guide on who to choose.

A couple of extra dollars here could save you from having to pull the head if it goes wrong and possibly repair a dent in the bonnet.

Talk about a grudge purchase. really didn't need this....but anyway. Its booked in for monday. Christine will have to sleep at my work.
I was hoping to chase a few more rattles this weekend. car is out of action. This means I'll be forces to mow the lawn.

Thanks for nothing Rolley. :lol:

I may have to invest some time back into my Mountain bike as well.

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Fri Sep 11, 2015 2:19 pm

I may even get a bottle of Bourbon under the radar with this. Its not all bad. :lol:

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Mon Sep 14, 2015 11:10 am

Spark Plug thread has been sorted by a pro juts now.

Patchy back in action with new & red magneto Leads.

Rear garnish on its way.....might even recieve it today.

excited camper