Cus' NA6
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- Cus
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 564
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:58 pm
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Maryborough (Vic)
Re: Cus' NA6
Apu, it seems like a good idea, but I just couldn't rob you fine folk of the elation you get after fluffing around with it for hours and then finally plugging it all together under the dash and finding out you've got the wires for the "door" and "on" switches backwards.
OK, so it wasn't "elation" but there were definitely feelings involved
But, it really depends on what you mean by "Kit" - if it's the classic electronics kit of "parts and a PCB", no, there aren't enough parts to make it worthwhile (unless the was a group of 20+ people interested) if you mean "Item to purchase and plug in for instant success" ... maybe. All of the wires to the lights are modified, so it'd be on an exchange basis, but I'd do it slightly more streamlined than I've done it here. (Physically smaller arduino, etc.) But actually mounting the lights in the windscreen trim would still be something you have to work out, I've decided on double-sided tape for the moment, because I've not gone looking for factory-looking surrounds yet.
I'm more inclined to do a how-to with sort-of follow-blindly steps to create your own. Taking people's money is good and all, I do like money, but it's not really kit-ready in terms of being a kit I'd be happy to spend my own money on.
OK, so it wasn't "elation" but there were definitely feelings involved
But, it really depends on what you mean by "Kit" - if it's the classic electronics kit of "parts and a PCB", no, there aren't enough parts to make it worthwhile (unless the was a group of 20+ people interested) if you mean "Item to purchase and plug in for instant success" ... maybe. All of the wires to the lights are modified, so it'd be on an exchange basis, but I'd do it slightly more streamlined than I've done it here. (Physically smaller arduino, etc.) But actually mounting the lights in the windscreen trim would still be something you have to work out, I've decided on double-sided tape for the moment, because I've not gone looking for factory-looking surrounds yet.
I'm more inclined to do a how-to with sort-of follow-blindly steps to create your own. Taking people's money is good and all, I do like money, but it's not really kit-ready in terms of being a kit I'd be happy to spend my own money on.
- Cus
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 564
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:58 pm
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Maryborough (Vic)
Re: Cus' NA6
Well, after pulling all the loose wires out that used to go to the old central locking / alarm control unit (the car came with all the wires, just no unit), I decided to plug them into the arduino, do some programming, a little bit of feature-creep, put it back in the car, and ka-blammo! Central Locking works, and controls the interior lights!
I don't actually have a clicker (yet) but that's OK, because the driver's side actuator needs a better lever system, without human assistance it can't actually lock/unlock the door. Passenger side does work perfectly though, and that's the one I can't reach, so I'll take that as a win.
I'm going to call it the "Most Advanced and Effective Interior Lighting in an NA6 MX-5". (Until droo gets his going, then it'll just be "better than OEM")
So, the light functions are:
"Door" -- 25% brightness, left and/or right side, according to switch position.
"On" -- 100% brightness, left and/or right side, according to switch position.
"Courtesy Mode" -- 25% brightness, both sides for about 40 seconds after unlocking the car.
"Courtesy Mode" -- 25% brightness, both sides for about 10 seconds after closing a door.
Courtesy Mode reduces to about 10 seconds if you open & close a door after unlocking the car.
Courtesy Mode can be cancelled by turning the lights on and off, or by locking the car.
Vidya-Demo:
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNcqOY2Bq4c[/youtube]
[Edit: It seems I've no idea how to embed a youtube video....(Youtube Link)]
Things I've learnt about central locking systems:
The Blue / Green wires are the powered ones, you drive them by changing the polarity.
Unless you remove power to the actuator, it will continue trying to push or pull, eventually killing it.
A 5A fuse is just enough to drive both actuators, unless you're locking and unlocking excitedly. 7.5A hasn't blown yet.
The Black / White / Brown wires are nothing more than a SPDT switch inside the actuator that corresponds to it being in or out, black is common.
This whole system draws less power than one of the old festoon globes I replaced way back at the start of this adventure. Both sides on in door or courtesy mode is less power draw than one globe, both on full is slightly more than one globe. The arduino pulls 28mA even when the car is off, so eventually the battery will go flat, but it's my daily driver, so if I don't start it at least once a week, I've probably got bigger problems than a flat battery
All this because I wanted the passenger side door to lock and unlock without me putting effort in...
I don't actually have a clicker (yet) but that's OK, because the driver's side actuator needs a better lever system, without human assistance it can't actually lock/unlock the door. Passenger side does work perfectly though, and that's the one I can't reach, so I'll take that as a win.
I'm going to call it the "Most Advanced and Effective Interior Lighting in an NA6 MX-5". (Until droo gets his going, then it'll just be "better than OEM")
So, the light functions are:
"Door" -- 25% brightness, left and/or right side, according to switch position.
"On" -- 100% brightness, left and/or right side, according to switch position.
"Courtesy Mode" -- 25% brightness, both sides for about 40 seconds after unlocking the car.
"Courtesy Mode" -- 25% brightness, both sides for about 10 seconds after closing a door.
Courtesy Mode reduces to about 10 seconds if you open & close a door after unlocking the car.
Courtesy Mode can be cancelled by turning the lights on and off, or by locking the car.
Vidya-Demo:
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNcqOY2Bq4c[/youtube]
[Edit: It seems I've no idea how to embed a youtube video....(Youtube Link)]
Things I've learnt about central locking systems:
The Blue / Green wires are the powered ones, you drive them by changing the polarity.
Unless you remove power to the actuator, it will continue trying to push or pull, eventually killing it.
A 5A fuse is just enough to drive both actuators, unless you're locking and unlocking excitedly. 7.5A hasn't blown yet.
The Black / White / Brown wires are nothing more than a SPDT switch inside the actuator that corresponds to it being in or out, black is common.
This whole system draws less power than one of the old festoon globes I replaced way back at the start of this adventure. Both sides on in door or courtesy mode is less power draw than one globe, both on full is slightly more than one globe. The arduino pulls 28mA even when the car is off, so eventually the battery will go flat, but it's my daily driver, so if I don't start it at least once a week, I've probably got bigger problems than a flat battery
All this because I wanted the passenger side door to lock and unlock without me putting effort in...
- Cus
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 564
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:58 pm
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Maryborough (Vic)
Re: Cus' NA6
Greetings Humans!
Small update to the interior lights / central locking computer this morning, I added an ignition line into it so it knows when the ignition is on, so it can cancel "courtesy mode" on the lights when the ignition gets turned on, because it's slightly annoying trying to reverse down the driveway with the lights courteously blinding the crap out me. (I had a manual override type thing set up, but I had to do "things" - now there's no extra steps for the same end result)
I also pulled the window switches out and gave them a clean, PO had thoughtfully filled the switches with some kind of grease which had formed a lovely carbon film. The windows move with gusto now!
Small update to the interior lights / central locking computer this morning, I added an ignition line into it so it knows when the ignition is on, so it can cancel "courtesy mode" on the lights when the ignition gets turned on, because it's slightly annoying trying to reverse down the driveway with the lights courteously blinding the crap out me. (I had a manual override type thing set up, but I had to do "things" - now there's no extra steps for the same end result)
I also pulled the window switches out and gave them a clean, PO had thoughtfully filled the switches with some kind of grease which had formed a lovely carbon film. The windows move with gusto now!
- Cus
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 564
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:58 pm
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Maryborough (Vic)
Re: Cus' NA6
Well, now the central locking works, and the interior lights illuminate, all that's been needed to do lately is "drive it" - I have a tendency to get up on things and look around, so seeing a sign that said "Mt Ida Lookout" while moseying around near Heathcote today, I decided to get on up and look around.
I definitely need to look into more horsepower though, coming home I got stuck behind ... well, every friggin' thing. A new Festiva ST blasted past me and two other cars like we'd pulled over for lunch. I was envious.
I definitely need to look into more horsepower though, coming home I got stuck behind ... well, every friggin' thing. A new Festiva ST blasted past me and two other cars like we'd pulled over for lunch. I was envious.
- Cus
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 564
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:58 pm
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Maryborough (Vic)
Re: Cus' NA6
Greetings humans!
I got my DIY on today, found some sheets if checker plate aluminium next to the shed, and started creating!
CAD template:
I decided against the "wings" on the sides, the lights came a little closer than expected when down, knowing my luck the aloy would be too thick, and that'd be the end of the headlight surrounds
Progress has stalled here: while I wait for files to arrive via the magic powers of my sister's car - the holes are too small for the jigsaw, and too big for the drill.
Once it sits in place happily I'll drill some holes so I can use the existing bolts for the bumper and she'll be pickles.
I got my DIY on today, found some sheets if checker plate aluminium next to the shed, and started creating!
CAD template:
I decided against the "wings" on the sides, the lights came a little closer than expected when down, knowing my luck the aloy would be too thick, and that'd be the end of the headlight surrounds
Progress has stalled here: while I wait for files to arrive via the magic powers of my sister's car - the holes are too small for the jigsaw, and too big for the drill.
Once it sits in place happily I'll drill some holes so I can use the existing bolts for the bumper and she'll be pickles.
- Cus
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 564
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:58 pm
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Maryborough (Vic)
Re: Cus' NA6
All done. If I did it again it'd be better / different, but now I have checkerplate in my car.
It adds +3 Heavy Duty, but takes a hit of -1 Racecar.
It adds +3 Heavy Duty, but takes a hit of -1 Racecar.
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- Speed Racer
- Posts: 2189
- Joined: Fri Nov 29, 2013 8:51 am
- Vehicle: ND - RF
- Location: Sydney
Re: Cus' NA6
Cus wrote:It adds +3 Heavy Duty, but takes a hit of -1 Racecar.
But adds +2 for Ricecar!
"A Convertible has a top you can put down when the weather's nice...... A Roadster has a top you can put up when the weather's bad."
- Cus
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 564
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:58 pm
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Maryborough (Vic)
Re: Cus' NA6
Nevyn72 wrote:Cus wrote:It adds +3 Heavy Duty, but takes a hit of -1 Racecar.
But adds +2 for Ricecar!
It's true
I really just want one of these, but they don't make them in red
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/2618812 ... 107&chn=ps
- Cus
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 564
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:58 pm
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Maryborough (Vic)
Re: Cus' NA6
So after my previous DIY escapades, I discovered there was coolant getting out of the top radiator hose on the radiator end.
I knew coolant was seeping out of the thermostat gasket, but also presumed it couldn't seep out fast enough to be a problem (mostly true) and that I should keep an eye on the coolant levels - but it's started needing actual top-ups instead of just watching it slowly go down, so I've been thinking about fixing the gasket.
So, back to the story at hand. I started the car after putting in my lovely plate thinger-ma-whatsit I'd made, because it was cold, and warm engines are warm, and it's basically a mobile space-heater. Fluffing around tidying up, and I glance over and see there's coolant on top of the fan shroud under the radiator hose. It's psychedelic green, new, stands out like dog's balls and shouldn't be there.
Well, this means it's time to fix things again! YAY! THat's my third favorite thing to do with Lil Red (behind 'Drive it' and 'Stare at it')
I drop all of the coolant into a clean bucket, pull the radiator hose off, and first, there's this issue:
The calipers are set to the size of the radiator pipe. This hose is a good few mm too big, and is relying on the hose clamp to keep it there, let alone seal it. Good Golly Miss Molly. This is how you end up with teenage pregnancy.
So I fixed the thermostat gasket by replacing it with RTV blue and set off into town while I waited for the RTV to set, verniers and old hose in tow.
Overpriced Shop A said they could get me the hose from two different suppliers for $50, which I politely declined.
No Service Shop B said nothing useful, but did have an entire self dedicated to random hoses, which Ii plonked myself in front of for the better part of half an hour measuring and comparing their hoses with my dodgy one.
I found the one that was the right ID and approximately the right shape, gave $19 to the lovely girl that seemed annoyed that I'd interrupted her phone-time to make a purchase, and went home.
Then, the regret struck.
"To Suit Mitsubishi Magna" - I had serious decision making to do; install a Magna part in my car, or just set fire to the car now to avoid it happening later at a much less convenient time.
It was a tough call, but we went with "install the part" in the end, and, to it's credit, it's help up all weekend!
Hose back on, thermostat housing nicked up, coolant back inside the car, and it was job's done.
Or, so I thought....
I just checked the coolant after letting the car sit for the weekend, and it was down, and now, this:
That leak is far more efficient than the one I've just fixed.
So, question for the gurus: Does anyone sell a combined Coolant re-route / hose kit? As best I understand it a re-route is just a reliability upgrade more than anything else, and the hoses all seem to want to be replaced anyway, so I may as well do it all in one hit.
I knew coolant was seeping out of the thermostat gasket, but also presumed it couldn't seep out fast enough to be a problem (mostly true) and that I should keep an eye on the coolant levels - but it's started needing actual top-ups instead of just watching it slowly go down, so I've been thinking about fixing the gasket.
So, back to the story at hand. I started the car after putting in my lovely plate thinger-ma-whatsit I'd made, because it was cold, and warm engines are warm, and it's basically a mobile space-heater. Fluffing around tidying up, and I glance over and see there's coolant on top of the fan shroud under the radiator hose. It's psychedelic green, new, stands out like dog's balls and shouldn't be there.
Well, this means it's time to fix things again! YAY! THat's my third favorite thing to do with Lil Red (behind 'Drive it' and 'Stare at it')
I drop all of the coolant into a clean bucket, pull the radiator hose off, and first, there's this issue:
The calipers are set to the size of the radiator pipe. This hose is a good few mm too big, and is relying on the hose clamp to keep it there, let alone seal it. Good Golly Miss Molly. This is how you end up with teenage pregnancy.
So I fixed the thermostat gasket by replacing it with RTV blue and set off into town while I waited for the RTV to set, verniers and old hose in tow.
Overpriced Shop A said they could get me the hose from two different suppliers for $50, which I politely declined.
No Service Shop B said nothing useful, but did have an entire self dedicated to random hoses, which Ii plonked myself in front of for the better part of half an hour measuring and comparing their hoses with my dodgy one.
I found the one that was the right ID and approximately the right shape, gave $19 to the lovely girl that seemed annoyed that I'd interrupted her phone-time to make a purchase, and went home.
Then, the regret struck.
"To Suit Mitsubishi Magna" - I had serious decision making to do; install a Magna part in my car, or just set fire to the car now to avoid it happening later at a much less convenient time.
It was a tough call, but we went with "install the part" in the end, and, to it's credit, it's help up all weekend!
Hose back on, thermostat housing nicked up, coolant back inside the car, and it was job's done.
Or, so I thought....
I just checked the coolant after letting the car sit for the weekend, and it was down, and now, this:
That leak is far more efficient than the one I've just fixed.
So, question for the gurus: Does anyone sell a combined Coolant re-route / hose kit? As best I understand it a re-route is just a reliability upgrade more than anything else, and the hoses all seem to want to be replaced anyway, so I may as well do it all in one hit.
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- Speed Racer
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- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Lugarno, Sydney
- ManiacLachy
- Forum Guru
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Re: Cus' NA6
Cus wrote: Good Golly Miss Molly. This is how you end up with teenage pregnancy.
I can't help with the re-route quesiton I'm affraid, but that comment is gold! You just won the forum as far as I'm concerned!
- Cus
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 564
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:58 pm
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Maryborough (Vic)
Re: Cus' NA6
Thanks Lachy! I've always wanted a forum!
I promise to feed it when I remember, and take it for walks when the ladies are out.
So, I've solved my coolant issues, kind-of. When it comes to hose clamps "screwdriver tight" and "ratchet tight" are not even close to the same thing.
It kind of makes sense when you think about it, which clearly, I didn't. Hose kit is still on the "need" list, but bumped down from "prepared to budget around it" to "the next mania order"
I did get to play welding today though!
Yesterday I took my niece for a drive around randomly, because she's 4, and it was a little bit adorable when she asked - she packed a picnic and everything: a cupcake and a banana, each! I even got the cupcake that hadn't already been taste-tested!
While moseying around, "The Rattle" came back. "The Rattle" being the heat shield on the cat. The very same cat I had installed on page 1, post 1. The first time it failed I was livid. The second time, I was pissed off. The third time it was a case of "Well, I've never pulled the exhaust off a car before...." - I seem to have become far more "zen" lately.
ANYWAY - Here it is before I fixed it, visible are the welds from the first time it was fixed by the guy at the shop that installed it originally.
For reference, here is repair #2, as done by a mate who happened to have a welder:
And finally, repair #3 - someone seems to have turned the welder up since last time I used it, it cooked-through a couple of times before I worked out what was going on - you're looking at the results of literally the 5th time I've had a MIG in my hand.
So, if you're pulling the exhaust off a car, keep in mind they're not actually light. I worked front-to-back, undid the bolts on the extractors, and then each hanger in turn to the back of the car. Lucky for me I was a good way under the car and the exhast fell on my chest, and not my face. Well, I'm saying it was lucky - I'm not the prettiest kid, maybe some face surgery could be god for me?...
Anyway, exhaust out, wire brush, weld, brush, tap, weld, DO A BARREL ROLL!
Put it back in, and discovered one-handed bench presses are a lot harder than they sound when you're trying to hold an exhaust in place with one hand while trying to get it onto the hangar with the other. They do go onto hangars a lot easier than they come off though, so that's a selling point.
I ended up having to hang the middle, then the back - it was almost as good as having a minion that was prepared to lay under the car and hold the exhaust up for me.
Bolted up the front of the exhaust, packed up the shed, went for a drive, it didn't rattle, got junk food to celebrate, came home, posted on the internet, the end.
I promise to feed it when I remember, and take it for walks when the ladies are out.
So, I've solved my coolant issues, kind-of. When it comes to hose clamps "screwdriver tight" and "ratchet tight" are not even close to the same thing.
It kind of makes sense when you think about it, which clearly, I didn't. Hose kit is still on the "need" list, but bumped down from "prepared to budget around it" to "the next mania order"
I did get to play welding today though!
Yesterday I took my niece for a drive around randomly, because she's 4, and it was a little bit adorable when she asked - she packed a picnic and everything: a cupcake and a banana, each! I even got the cupcake that hadn't already been taste-tested!
While moseying around, "The Rattle" came back. "The Rattle" being the heat shield on the cat. The very same cat I had installed on page 1, post 1. The first time it failed I was livid. The second time, I was pissed off. The third time it was a case of "Well, I've never pulled the exhaust off a car before...." - I seem to have become far more "zen" lately.
ANYWAY - Here it is before I fixed it, visible are the welds from the first time it was fixed by the guy at the shop that installed it originally.
For reference, here is repair #2, as done by a mate who happened to have a welder:
And finally, repair #3 - someone seems to have turned the welder up since last time I used it, it cooked-through a couple of times before I worked out what was going on - you're looking at the results of literally the 5th time I've had a MIG in my hand.
So, if you're pulling the exhaust off a car, keep in mind they're not actually light. I worked front-to-back, undid the bolts on the extractors, and then each hanger in turn to the back of the car. Lucky for me I was a good way under the car and the exhast fell on my chest, and not my face. Well, I'm saying it was lucky - I'm not the prettiest kid, maybe some face surgery could be god for me?...
Anyway, exhaust out, wire brush, weld, brush, tap, weld, DO A BARREL ROLL!
Put it back in, and discovered one-handed bench presses are a lot harder than they sound when you're trying to hold an exhaust in place with one hand while trying to get it onto the hangar with the other. They do go onto hangars a lot easier than they come off though, so that's a selling point.
I ended up having to hang the middle, then the back - it was almost as good as having a minion that was prepared to lay under the car and hold the exhaust up for me.
Bolted up the front of the exhaust, packed up the shed, went for a drive, it didn't rattle, got junk food to celebrate, came home, posted on the internet, the end.
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- Speed Racer
- Posts: 3471
- Joined: Sun Jan 19, 2014 9:52 am
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Lugarno, Sydney
Re: Cus' NA6
You certainly have a way with words
I laughed out loud on the train regarding your comments about feeding and walking the forum.
You seem to be doing fine once you've learnt the basics.
Proper tools can make a big difference too.
Now I just want to say that your comments about the exhaust did make me worry a little, as it only has one place to go once unbolted and that's down!
So based on that little mishap alone, plan the order of stuff to be unbolted and consider it's weight and where will it fall if you have to drop it.
If nobody is around to help, utilize your trolley jack or boxes or packing and jam under the load. Safety first as we are not cats and only have one life.
Another little tip, which sounds silly as I type it, if weilding a tool in one hand, make sure that your other hand is not in the path if you slip, trip, fall etc.
Look forward to reading more of your posts.
I laughed out loud on the train regarding your comments about feeding and walking the forum.
You seem to be doing fine once you've learnt the basics.
Proper tools can make a big difference too.
Now I just want to say that your comments about the exhaust did make me worry a little, as it only has one place to go once unbolted and that's down!
So based on that little mishap alone, plan the order of stuff to be unbolted and consider it's weight and where will it fall if you have to drop it.
If nobody is around to help, utilize your trolley jack or boxes or packing and jam under the load. Safety first as we are not cats and only have one life.
Another little tip, which sounds silly as I type it, if weilding a tool in one hand, make sure that your other hand is not in the path if you slip, trip, fall etc.
Look forward to reading more of your posts.
NA6 turbo - 140kw atw - not the most powerful but so much fun
- Cus
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 564
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:58 pm
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Maryborough (Vic)
Re: Cus' NA6
Thanks speed, I hope people looked at you funny after you laughed for 'no reason' on the train. Trains need more crazy people!
Just to ease the stress, it was more of a "controlled drop" then a straight-up "fall"...
I was on to the last rubber hanger thingy, so I knew what was coming next - which is why my body was under it instead of my head; the plan was to "bench-press" it down, but I got to "exhaust falling from the sky" a little more abruptly than I was expecting
I am a great believer in safety though - It's one of "those things" - you spend time preparing for something you hope does not happen, so if it does you can think "sh*t, that was scary" as opposed to working out how to dial 000 with no fingers.
Just to ease the stress, it was more of a "controlled drop" then a straight-up "fall"...
I was on to the last rubber hanger thingy, so I knew what was coming next - which is why my body was under it instead of my head; the plan was to "bench-press" it down, but I got to "exhaust falling from the sky" a little more abruptly than I was expecting
I am a great believer in safety though - It's one of "those things" - you spend time preparing for something you hope does not happen, so if it does you can think "sh*t, that was scary" as opposed to working out how to dial 000 with no fingers.
- Cus
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 564
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:58 pm
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Maryborough (Vic)
Re: Cus' NA6
Thank you for attending, please, take a seat, we're about to begin.
On friday I made a purchase - an "R" front lip, with a crack, in melbourne, for $60 from a forum member.
It wasn't actually anywhere on the "need" list, and a long, long way down the "want" list. But it was cheap, and broken, and therefore will fit with the theme I've developed. I didn't set out to make a car that looks broken, but here we are, flocked up paint on the guard, scratches, blemishes, the works.
So I went to my sister's house to see if one of them wanted to come for a drive to Melbourne-town. The little-little sister did, so off we went. We left around 1:30PM, and didn't get back until just after 8. This is why I hate cities. 3 hours of highway driving, 4 hours of city driving, and we only traveled 400km, and 300km of that was on the highway!
Anyway! Behold! The Lip!
Detail of the crack:
The crack actually runs along in the seam at the top for a couple of centimeters as well, but meant the lip could be bent a little to actually fit on the parcel shelf, which meant the sister didn't have to nurse it all the way home. I didn't include that possibility in the trip description when selling the excursion, it was just going to be a "bonus"...
Once I was home I promptly took it out to the shed and set about fixing the crack, there was some glue on the back where the PO had tried to fix it. I knocked that off, scuffed the back with a bit of sandpaper, cut a piece of fiber glass mat to size, mixed up the resin, and proceeded directly to fiber glassing that mo-fo up.
Because I'd had the lip slightly bent on the parcel shelf for several hours in the heated comfort of the car, the lip kept re-bending itself, ruining my lovely glassing. I ended up making a giant jig out of old brake rotors, bricks and some oil containers. It worked better than anticipated.
I left it until just after lunch sunday, saw that it was no longer tacky, and grabbed the scissors to trim off the little bit of overhang, and instantly regretted it.
Yeah, that bubble on the left is from cutting the fiber glass with the scissors. No matter though, it didn't get to the crack, which is still visible - it was facing down in my jig, so I couldn't see it wasn't mated up properly. Oh well. It's on the bottom of the car, if you're under there and looking at it, I'm probably running you over
Random action shot:
Because the lip uses two existing holes, I mounted those, and propped the rest up with oil containers so I could mark the holes. Except it turns out that even at stock ride height, is too low to get my head, or the jack, or a drill, or anything under the car.
So I invented this technique: (Yes, I invented it. Me, not any of you other people that have done it previously!)
Full lock, drive the jack in behind the bumper, in front of the wheel, and you get all that awesome wheel arch space to move the jack handle!
As an aside, the jack stands probably saved my life today, I didn't have the release on the jack done all the way up, so it was slowly letting the car down. It took me three attempts to work out why I still couldn't remove the passenger side jack stand when I jacked the car up.
Marked holes, Drilled the holes, Bolts in the holes, and BAM! all done!
(This sentence was actually most of the afternoon, lip went on and off a bunch of times making sure the marks and holes were right)
Completion shot; with a coffee cup resting on the coffee table (edit; radiator cowl) I made the other week!
On friday I made a purchase - an "R" front lip, with a crack, in melbourne, for $60 from a forum member.
It wasn't actually anywhere on the "need" list, and a long, long way down the "want" list. But it was cheap, and broken, and therefore will fit with the theme I've developed. I didn't set out to make a car that looks broken, but here we are, flocked up paint on the guard, scratches, blemishes, the works.
So I went to my sister's house to see if one of them wanted to come for a drive to Melbourne-town. The little-little sister did, so off we went. We left around 1:30PM, and didn't get back until just after 8. This is why I hate cities. 3 hours of highway driving, 4 hours of city driving, and we only traveled 400km, and 300km of that was on the highway!
Anyway! Behold! The Lip!
Detail of the crack:
The crack actually runs along in the seam at the top for a couple of centimeters as well, but meant the lip could be bent a little to actually fit on the parcel shelf, which meant the sister didn't have to nurse it all the way home. I didn't include that possibility in the trip description when selling the excursion, it was just going to be a "bonus"...
Once I was home I promptly took it out to the shed and set about fixing the crack, there was some glue on the back where the PO had tried to fix it. I knocked that off, scuffed the back with a bit of sandpaper, cut a piece of fiber glass mat to size, mixed up the resin, and proceeded directly to fiber glassing that mo-fo up.
Because I'd had the lip slightly bent on the parcel shelf for several hours in the heated comfort of the car, the lip kept re-bending itself, ruining my lovely glassing. I ended up making a giant jig out of old brake rotors, bricks and some oil containers. It worked better than anticipated.
I left it until just after lunch sunday, saw that it was no longer tacky, and grabbed the scissors to trim off the little bit of overhang, and instantly regretted it.
Yeah, that bubble on the left is from cutting the fiber glass with the scissors. No matter though, it didn't get to the crack, which is still visible - it was facing down in my jig, so I couldn't see it wasn't mated up properly. Oh well. It's on the bottom of the car, if you're under there and looking at it, I'm probably running you over
Random action shot:
Because the lip uses two existing holes, I mounted those, and propped the rest up with oil containers so I could mark the holes. Except it turns out that even at stock ride height, is too low to get my head, or the jack, or a drill, or anything under the car.
So I invented this technique: (Yes, I invented it. Me, not any of you other people that have done it previously!)
Full lock, drive the jack in behind the bumper, in front of the wheel, and you get all that awesome wheel arch space to move the jack handle!
As an aside, the jack stands probably saved my life today, I didn't have the release on the jack done all the way up, so it was slowly letting the car down. It took me three attempts to work out why I still couldn't remove the passenger side jack stand when I jacked the car up.
Marked holes, Drilled the holes, Bolts in the holes, and BAM! all done!
(This sentence was actually most of the afternoon, lip went on and off a bunch of times making sure the marks and holes were right)
Completion shot; with a coffee cup resting on the coffee table (edit; radiator cowl) I made the other week!
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