Haltech Sprint 500 MX5 Turbo HELP - PLEASE!

Larseney · Postby **Larseney** » Thu Jun 25, 2015 8:30 pm

Hi Guys,

I Purchased the MX5 Turbo Kit form the MCM Boys for my 91' NA MX5.
The Wiring loom for the Haltech was meticulously labeled and all the factory loom wires that needed to be patched in still had some of the MX5 wire on it to use as a guide.
I have installed the whole kit very carefully and wired the car with great care.

I can connect the ECU to my computer and the TPS, MAP and other readings all come up, I have Calibrated the TPS and all seems ok.
The Car starts and runs for about 3 or 4 seconds then stops. I can Rev it, no problems, but it still dies after the 3 or 4 seconds.
I have double checked all my wiring with a Multimeter and everything seems ok.
- I checked the Timing - Its 10deg Before Top Dead Centre
- When I "Disable Injectors" the engine Cranks, but doesn't fire. So with them enabled and only starting for a short time i believe this means the Engine is getting Fuel - so that rules out Injectors (Injector Power) and Fuel.
- I as worried about 12v power for the COPS so I ran a fresh 12v from the Battery for it (Fused)

The only thing i can think is that I have a "Innovate MTX-L" wide band (which is the only difference from the MCM car (apart from the Car & engine)).
I have the Wideband Output 1 wired to Wire 21 (which according to the Innovate Manual outputs "0 V for an AFR of 7.35 (gasoline) and 5.0V for an AFR of 22.39") and its Earth (the shield of that wire) earthed to the same ground as the Wideband.
The Displayed AFR on the gauge differs from on the Haltech Software, have I gone wrong here?
Or somewhere else?

Any ideas would be sincerely appreciated!

I will get the Car Re/Fine Tuned at "EFI Performance" here on the coast, but would prefer to get this sorted and drive it there on its current tune rather that have it Towed there.

Thanks for your time!!!

Chris

madjak · Postby **madjak** » Thu Jun 25, 2015 8:42 pm

Larseney wrote:Hi Guys,

I Purchased the MX5 Turbo Kit form the MCM Boys for my 91' NA MX5.
The Wiring loom for the Haltech was meticulously labeled and all the factory loom wires that needed to be patched in still had some of the MX5 wire on it to use as a guide.
I have installed the whole kit very carefully and wired the car with great care.

I can connect the ECU to my computer and the TPS, MAP and other readings all come up, I have Calibrated the TPS and all seems ok.
The Car starts and runs for about 3 or 4 seconds then stops. I can Rev it, no problems, but it still dies after the 3 or 4 seconds.
I have double checked all my wiring with a Multimeter and everything seems ok.
- I checked the Timing - Its 10deg Before Top Dead Centre
- When I "Disable Injectors" the engine Cranks, but doesn't fire. So with them enabled and only starting for a short time i believe this means the Engine is getting Fuel - so that rules out Injectors (Injector Power) and Fuel.
- I as worried about 12v power for the COPS so I ran a fresh 12v from the Battery for it (Fused)

The only thing i can think is that I have a "Innovate MTX-L" wide band (which is the only difference from the MCM car (apart from the Car & engine)).
I have the Wideband Output 1 wired to Wire 21 (which according to the Innovate Manual outputs "0 V for an AFR of 7.35 (gasoline) and 5.0V for an AFR of 22.39") and its Earth (the shield of that wire) earthed to the same ground as the Wideband.
The Displayed AFR on the gauge differs from on the Haltech Software, have I gone wrong here?
Or somewhere else?

Any ideas would be sincerely appreciated!

I will get the Car Re/Fine Tuned at "EFI Performance" here on the coast, but would prefer to get this sorted and drive it there on its current tune rather that have it Towed there.

Thanks for your time!!!

Chris

I don't know tuning but to me it sounds like your cold start settings... If it is firing and running but then stops so it must be too lean. Try upping the fuel trim (ie it applies to the entire map) add heaps and see if you can get it running for longer. With the wideband have you calibrated it and loaded the correct mapping in the Haltech ECU Manager?

Of course if someone actually knows what they are talking about, feel free to chime in.

madjak · Postby **madjak** » Thu Jun 25, 2015 8:49 pm

here is a good linke: http://forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=9754

Larseney · Postby **Larseney** » Thu Jun 25, 2015 8:56 pm

madjak wrote:here is a good linke: http://forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=9754

Thanks Mate,

I will try what the Haltech Guys said on the Link about Cold Start Settings and see if that works

Thanks!

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Fri Jun 26, 2015 11:55 am

I'd be looking at the wideband before farking with the tune.

It was running on the old car with exactly the same setup EXCEPT for the wideband.

Now, it makes sense to look at the one known difference first, and rule that out.

Otherwise you change the tune, change 20 other things, then it runs worse, then you end up chasing your tail for 6 months trying to find out which one of your changes is causing which issue before you finally get to the wideband.

madjak · Postby **madjak** » Fri Jun 26, 2015 12:32 pm

My understanding is he's just getting it drivable to get it to a tuner. The ECU doesn't need the wideband for that, the engine just needs to be getting enough fuel. It would be good to get the wideband sorted so your not wasting time at the tuner.
You can could disconnect the wideband from the Haltech and just get the engine running. See if you can get a reasonable AFR on the gauge but just adjusting the fuel trim. Once you have the engine idling and a decent AFR then reconnect it to the Haltech and set up.

Just a couple of things to check:

Is the Innovate getting IGN power not ACC power as ACC will drop when cranking
Good clean earth
Input profile for that o2 sensor is loaded correctly in ECU Manager

I know from my car when it's cranking and trying to fire, the o2 sensor reads values all over the place.

Larseney · Postby **Larseney** » Fri Jun 26, 2015 12:53 pm

Thanks Guys,

I agree about making changes.
Matthew from Haltech said this:
"Not sure what you have there, but the early MX5s trigger fuel pump from the MAF. It is switched between pins 1 and 6 on the MAF connector. Sounds like you have no fuel pressure."

So how does the Fuel connect through the AFM?
Could I test this by running the "Fuel Pump relay" wire straight from the ECU to the Fuel Pump wire?
If so, which wire would I cut into on the Fuel Pump wires?

Cheers

Chris

madjak · Postby **madjak** » Fri Jun 26, 2015 1:01 pm

Larseney wrote:Thanks Guys,

I agree about making changes.
Matthew from Haltech said this:
"Not sure what you have there, but the early MX5s trigger fuel pump from the MAF. It is switched between pins 1 and 6 on the MAF connector. Sounds like you have no fuel pressure."

So how does the Fuel connect through the AFM?
Could I test this by running the "Fuel Pump relay" wire straight from the ECU to the Fuel Pump wire?
If so, which wire would I cut into on the Fuel Pump wires?

Cheers

Chris

My haltech isn't a PNP so I have bypassed all the stock wiring. For mine I have a fuel pump relay triggered by the Haltech that connects to the yellow wire under the dash that runs to the fuel pump. You are probably better finding the stock fuel pump relay and triggering that with the Haltech. You can't connect the fuel pump directly to the Haltech ecu trigger wire. Alternatively to test you can just hook the yellow wire up to a 12v source and run the pump to see if the engine fires and runs.

Larseney · Postby **Larseney** » Fri Jun 26, 2015 1:37 pm

Genius!

I will do that!
- Firstly run 12v direct to the Relay, see if that works.
- If it does, then wire the Haltech to the Relay.

I will let you know.

Thanks!

madjak wrote:
Larseney wrote:Thanks Guys,

I agree about making changes.
Matthew from Haltech said this:
"Not sure what you have there, but the early MX5s trigger fuel pump from the MAF. It is switched between pins 1 and 6 on the MAF connector. Sounds like you have no fuel pressure."

So how does the Fuel connect through the AFM?
Could I test this by running the "Fuel Pump relay" wire straight from the ECU to the Fuel Pump wire?
If so, which wire would I cut into on the Fuel Pump wires?

Cheers

Chris

My haltech isn't a PNP so I have bypassed all the stock wiring. For mine I have a fuel pump relay triggered by the Haltech that connects to the yellow wire under the dash that runs to the fuel pump. You are probably better finding the stock fuel pump relay and triggering that with the Haltech. You can't connect the fuel pump directly to the Haltech ecu trigger wire. Alternatively to test you can just hook the yellow wire up to a 12v source and run the pump to see if the engine fires and runs.

Larseney · Postby **Larseney** » Sat Jun 27, 2015 10:38 pm

Thanks madjak,

I connected F/P & GND in the Diagnostic Box and heard the Fuel Pump straight away.
It started and keep going no problems! PHEW!

I then checked my wiring in the AFM Cable / Connector.
I had spliced into it to run my IAT from here (which works fine), but had neglected to Join the Red/Green to Light Green wires which completes the circuit from the ECU through the AFM to the Fuel Relay.
I tested this and it works perfectly.
I guess I could have just run straight from the ECU to Fuel Relay, but this works fine.

Thank you very Much Mate!
Your advice was helpful and accurate in a real time of frustration and desperation for me.
I sincerely appreciate the help!

Chris

madjak · Postby **madjak** » Sun Jun 28, 2015 1:32 pm

I'm not sure how much I actually helped but glad its all working. I find electrical issues very frustrating and most of the time its a very simple oversight. Its nice to be able to talk it through with someone.

I spent two nights trawlibg forums trying to get my flex sensor working only to find that in the dark under the dash I'd soldered to the shield in a dpi wire instead of the internal signal wire. One 2min call to Haltech and they told me what I'd done.

Glad its all working!

Rick