Tie Rod End

Tumbles · Postby **Tumbles** » Wed Jun 17, 2015 4:59 pm

Buy genuine?

Mania's product?

Or has anyone used ACDelco/Moog/DEEZO/Mevotech ones from the States/RockAuto?

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Wed Jun 17, 2015 5:16 pm

Buy genuine. If you are lowering your car look for the tie rods for the LE model.

Tumbles · Postby **Tumbles** » Wed Jun 17, 2015 5:34 pm

I'm still on OEM suspension and I just want it fixed so I can get a proper alignment.

I probably should state it's a 1991 NA6 Eunos with power steering.

What's the LE model?

madjak · Postby **madjak** » Wed Jun 17, 2015 6:08 pm

I believe the part number is N021-32-280A

http://www.amayama.com/search?region=112&q=N021-32-280A $56 an end

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Wed Jun 17, 2015 6:18 pm

Just use whatever they have at Bursons.

The aftermarket ones are fine for OEM use, and not that expensive from memory.

If the budget allows, try and buy a pair to do them both at once.

project.r.racing · Postby **project.r.racing** » Wed Jun 17, 2015 6:44 pm

hks_kansei wrote:Just use whatever they have at Bursons.

The aftermarket ones are fine for OEM use, and not that expensive from memory.

If the budget allows, try and buy a pair to do them both at once.

agreed
agreed
agreed

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Wed Jun 17, 2015 7:16 pm

1993 LE (OEM part number N021-32-280A)

From memory under $100 for the OEM pair.

Rolley · Postby **Rolley** » Wed Jun 17, 2015 9:21 pm

Bursons supplied me with WASP rack ends and tie rod ends last month. Got the lot for $110. Rod ends came with slightly different designed lock washers but they fit up well and were secure.
Wasp is good stuff, We used it all the time as aftermarket replacement when I was working for Ford.

Tumbles · Postby **Tumbles** » Thu Jun 18, 2015 1:04 am

I don't have a local Bursons that I know of.

Anyway, aftermarket being just as good is good to hear.

I've sent off an inquiry to Amayama with the part number listed by Magpie and madjak. See how that goes. (For two of them, I don't mind doing both at once.)

How come the LE version is recommended for lowering?

madjak · Postby **madjak** » Thu Jun 18, 2015 1:12 am

It has a little more offset. Only 10mm or so but the change in angle in the steering arm when you lower the body causes the wheels to toe in slightly more on a bump. This lowers the pivot point to bring the tie rod back into the more neutral position closer to stock.

I don't run them on my car but maybe I should. Its been on my list for a while.

Tumbles · Postby **Tumbles** » Thu Jun 18, 2015 2:18 am

So it's slightly larger to give it that offset?

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Thu Jun 18, 2015 6:18 am

http://revlimiter.net/blog/2011/03/tie-rod-end-swap/

http://www.longacreracing.com/technical-articles.aspx?item=8162

The LE tie rods keeps the OEM suspension geometry on a lowered car. Lowered yes, slammed no. Since I have had my lowere control arms, tie rods and bushes replaced the car handling and alignment possibilities are fantastic.

myredmx5 · Postby **myredmx5** » Thu Jun 18, 2015 9:52 am

PM's sent

Tumbles · Postby **Tumbles** » Thu Jun 18, 2015 11:08 pm

Okay, so, I got the shipping quote back and it was all cheap, but the title which I posted was completely wrong.

I should've realised sooner. I need the RHS tie rod, not the tie rod end. Derp.

How do you find Mazda part numbers?