Newcastle/Hunter suspension adjustment experts?

[Muzdaman]

Argy glendale?

Last time i went there the non mx5 got an alignment, the steering wheel wasnt even straight afterwards!

Hopeless.

[Xaviien]

Yeah, Argy Glendale.
The steering wheel is at least straight.

I literally had no more time. I had to get it done so my wife could go for a driving test.

To be fair, it's the cheapest MX5 I've ever seen, it only cost me $1800, and it does have quite a few issues.

[myredmx5]

Those issues haven't prevented registration it appears so they can't be to bad.

BTW what does is need in your opinion?

[Xaviien]

Brakes. I've already got discs and pads. Bought the pads before I researched though, so got the cheapest I could find. Now I want road/track pads.

It leaks.

It's coming up on 300,000 kms, so could probably use a timing belt/water pump service.

The gearbox feels like sh*t. Won't go into reverse most of the time without pumping the clutch 27 times. Won't easily go into second when it's cold.

Last night something in/around the dash started rattling its ass off.

It has no horn wire, so no horn. Fixing that is harder than I expected, but I was in a rush trying to get it done in case it was required for the driving test.

It has a shitty alarm fitted that doesn't work, but still has power etc. I want it gone but I'm scared to touch it in case it has an immobiliser. Really don't want to trigger that.

Apparently it needs control arm bushes as well.

These are just the things I've noticed/been told of so far, and don't include all the things I've already fixed, such as the gear shift boots and gaiter etc.

[IanR]

I used tyres n more at Charlestown, gave them the flying Miata numbers and they did it. They were pretty honest and I'd go back.


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[PhilM]

I and other Hunter MX5 people have used Pedders at Gateshead, they were recommended to me 4 years ago by a regular Lotus racer, the Pedders owner does track days in his V8 ute.
I knew what I wanted but I asked for their recommendations for a semi track set up and he told me exactly what I had in mind. They have never wanted to onsell me anything.
They have done about 4 alignments for me (I fitted poly bushes and then back to oem bushes)
I am due for another as its been 18 months + I am fitting some new coil overs.

Also had other cars aligned by Toronto Tyre Power - Brett now has a MX5.

Last week I was told the Pedders Central Coast - Dare Brothers, are good too - they are motorsport competitors.

I am at Fishing Point

[RS2000]

I'm told Bernie Roberts at Carline in Raymond Terrace is the man to see.

He's a long time racer, & does corner weighting as well as alignments.

Cheers

[Xaviien]

Thanks again guys!
I think I may get a second opinion, and if what he said about not being able to get the wheels even is true, look at whether there is anything to do to fix it. I feel I may be able to get a bit more adjustment by using eccentric control arm bushes, since some need replacing anyway, but if the chassis is bent, there's not much point throwing too much money at this car.

[PhilM]

I would be looking at the suspension bushes - to see if they are cracked + they get hard and dont do their job, they are part of the spring load. BTW they were only designed for 60,000 miles, but they have proven to last a lot longer. I had a rear one cracked (250,000kms)- I found out after I got the car aligned then it was stepping out badly on the rear (Unfortunately I had dríven it all the way to Philip Island for a Super sprint) I got it re aligned to find that the RHR was 5mm toe out.
The bushes are not a quick fix there are 24 of them so it takes at least 8 hours - but you can save a lot of $ doing it your self. I have a hyd press and all the mandrels to do the job if you need them.

Lowered susp gets you a little more camber.

Having over 2 deg Neg really chops the inside of your tyres on the street especially if you drive around with a load i.e. driving the 700 kms round trip to Wakefield Park with 2 people and gear.

You can check your camber with an app -"Angle meter"

Get a second alignment (at a different place) to make sure the 1st is correct. Then If it is bent dont waste anymore money on it.

[Xaviien]

Thanks again Phil.
If I do decide to replace the bushes, I will definitely be coming for a visit!
I'm fairly sure it would still have the original bushes. It seems to be 99% as it was when it left the factory, and being just shy of 300,000 k's means a LOT of bits are worn out.

I don't think I have time for a second alignment before this weekend. Time is very short, and there are still a few other things to be done, such as adjusting the clutch, trying to get the windows working properly, remaking my extinguisher bracket etc.

[PhilM]

No probs, you will have a great time anyway, and get a better idea what is required, there will be plenty of experience there to help answer any questions. Better start stock and then work up from there.

Barry in a stock blue NA is a first timer at W Pk, from the Hunter, say hello to him.

I'm sure you cant adjust the clutch - only bleed fluid or replace parts.

[Xaviien]

No probs, you will have a great time anyway, and get a better idea what is required, there will be plenty of experience there to help answer any questions. Better start stock and then work up from there.

Barry in a stock blue NA is a first timer at W Pk, from the Hunter, say hello to him.

I'm sure you cant adjust the clutch - only bleed fluid or replace parts.

http://www.miata.net/garage/adjust_clutch/
There is about 2 inches of play as you start to depress the clutch, and it doesn't seem to be disengaging the gear all the way when depressed fully. This is causing a few small problems with gear changes, it seems slightly worse than what most people describe when talking about the NA gearbox.

I met Barry at the dinner meeting, and he agreed that it sounds like the clutch may need to be adjusted out a little.

Since this thread has strayed quite a bit already, if anyone else from up this way is headed down for the charity lunch, make sure to let me know. We are heading down as a group on Saturday morning.

[PhilM]

That instruction only adjusts the pedal free play, it usually does not get 2" out.
I am not going at the weekend.

[Xaviien]

To throw some random numbers around:

If the piston travel between fully engaged and fully disengaged is say 4 inches, and there is 1/2 inch to an inch too much free play, that's going to stop me being able to use the clutch fully.

I might be wrong, and it may need 1 or both cylinders replaced, but I figure it's worth taking a look.

[RS2000]

That instruction only adjusts the pedal free play

Which adjusts the clutch!

The less the pedal free play, the further the clutch will disengage, which seems what Xaviien requires. This also means you have to release the pedal further up before the clutch bites.

Cheers