Clutch? Starter? Both? (NA6)

speed · Postby **speed** » Thu Apr 30, 2015 9:05 pm

Nevyn72 wrote:To follow on from this discussion, Fab9 in the US have just listed a complete clutch referb kit which includes new Master and Slave cylinders plus a braided line.
At ~US$57 + shipping it's pretty good value!

http://fab9tuning.com/index.php?option= ... 73&lang=en

Nice one!

dsjoyce · Postby **dsjoyce** » Sat May 02, 2015 2:11 pm

Shipping for that kit is 18USD, makes it great value! Will have to get one if the slave rebuild doesn't work.

Good news:
Did CAS o-ring change with not too much trouble (i think?!)
Slave rebuild kit arrived yesterday

Bad news:
Lots of rain arrived yesterday, car was parked on the street moderately close to a creek, flooded the car to about half way up its body :cry:

Now the undercarriage is full of crap (cant even see the slave anymore), im thinking at this stage best bet might be to get the car towed to my parent's place as I've been working on it on the street til now, and pressure wash the sh*t out of it then let it dry thoroughly before doing any more work. Im worried about all the little bits of debris that might mess with the alternator/pulleys etc.

Anyone gone through anything similar, I think the important electronics are up high - is there much chance of electrical damage?

As I said, it never rains but it pours :shock:

Nevyn72 · Postby **Nevyn72** » Sat May 02, 2015 2:29 pm

dsjoyce wrote:Bad news:
Lots of rain arrived yesterday, car was parked on the street moderately close to a creek, flooded the car to about half way up its body

Bummer!

Is it insured?
Being that far under water it would probably be a write-off.....

dsjoyce · Postby **dsjoyce** » Sat May 02, 2015 3:48 pm

Not insured no

93_Clubman · Postby **93_Clubman** » Sat May 02, 2015 4:26 pm

Did water get inside the car?
If standard, the ECU is under the carpet near the base of the passenger side footwell, so well worth a look to make sure water hasn't soaked into the sound deadening & carpet & has got the ECU wet.

project.r.racing · Postby **project.r.racing** » Sun May 03, 2015 7:51 am

if the water came inside the passenger cell, then it is now a parts car. or drive it until the electrics begin to fail. could be 6 days, could be 6 months, could be 6 years.

speed · Postby **speed** » Mon May 04, 2015 9:48 am

project.r.racing wrote:if the water came inside the passenger cell, then it is now a parts car. or drive it until the electrics begin to fail. could be 6 days, could be 6 months, could be 6 years.

This has just happened with one of ours (not the 5). Apparently the water line was above the bonnet.
Is being inspected today and I hope they do the right thing, as I don't want it back after this.

I sympathize with all those that are going through a similar thing.

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Mon May 04, 2015 1:21 pm

well.... for US$76 I would expect a few years out of it. But thats it.
patchy has 300 k km. original hydrolic pipe & master cylinder. The RHD master cylinder Genuine Mazda is $150 just by itself the Clutch slave cylinder is another $134.
the original Clutch slave cylinder gave me about 200 k km

Since this is from the USA I would make sure the clutch master cylinder is for RHD.On the UK site RHD & LHD master cylinders look differently

Nevyn72 · Postby **Nevyn72** » Mon May 04, 2015 5:44 pm

StanTheMan wrote:well.... for US$76 I would expect a few years out of it. But thats it.

Well being Excedy I suspect the quality is a bit better than that!

StanTheMan wrote:Since this is from the USA I would make sure the clutch master cylinder is for RHD.On the UK site RHD & LHD master cylinders look differently

.... and the NB SE is different again! :mrgreen:

However if you use the braided line it actually doesn't matter. :wink:

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Tue May 05, 2015 11:52 am

since I'm on the market for a slave cylinder

you are suggesting get the kit & turf the master cylinder if it is incorrect and you still have a decent kit?

Nevyn72 · Postby **Nevyn72** » Tue May 05, 2015 5:12 pm

StanTheMan wrote:you are suggesting get the kit & turf the master cylinder if it is incorrect and you still have a decent kit?

What I am suggesting is that if the master cylinder supplied isn't exactly the same as the factory one on your car, so long as you use the flexible braided line and remove the factory spaghetti, it won't actually matter that the master is different. :wink:

Given the age of your master it probably wouldn't hurt to replace it with a new one, especially as it won't cost you anything!