Operation TLC

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Wed Jan 14, 2015 4:22 pm

ndragun wrote:- tacho isn't working ATM

If it is an NA6 shell/harness and you are using the stock ignitor then it should just work as is... only if you're running something else will you need to look into, but probably just needs a 1K resistor, jumped between IG- with B+ in the diagnostics box. That's how mine is with a COP etc.... (stock ignitor removed)

ndragun · Postby **ndragun** » Wed Jan 14, 2015 5:08 pm

Its an NA8 - stock coils and harness. So to my mind its likely to just be a connection to the gauge panel itself, otherwise surely the car wouldn't run?
Looking at the wiring diagram, the tacho runs straight off a BLK/WHT wire to the coils/ecu.

I also have oil pressure gauge going to max which seems odd. Fuel gauge looks roughly right, and warning lights are functioning (brake check is on since there's no brake fluid in the system yet).

Amusingly, my only other electrical issue ATM is the reverse lights on while in neutral. So I've obviously got the neutral and reverse switches arse about into the gearbox.

STUPID WIRING.

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Wed Jan 14, 2015 5:24 pm

ndragun wrote:Its an NA8 - stock coils and harness

Not 100% but it could be that the TACHO OUT needs to be connected to the correct ECU pin (and sending the correct signal etc).

I can't recall what model MS2 you have so you either need to play with some jumpers or wire it yourself into the harness and make sure the config enables the tacho out as an output. This is gonna be annoying as ya gonna chew up an output and MS2 doesn't have that many spare!!

G

ndragun · Postby **ndragun** » Thu Jan 22, 2015 11:02 am

So I have an effing coolant leak on the back of the cylinder head. Just a minor few drips down onto the top of the gearbox - but its a leak alright.
Obviously something back there not tightened up or sealed properly.
Since I've copped a bit of flak for not installing a coolant re-route, should I do that now while I'm fixing the leak, or is that way too much of a pain in the butt with the engine in-situ?

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Thu Jan 22, 2015 1:02 pm

Its a pain in the rear to do, but if you're mucking around there anyway......

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rascal · Postby **rascal** » Thu Jan 22, 2015 1:05 pm

ndragun wrote:So I have an effing coolant leak on the back of the cylinder head. Just a minor few drips down onto the top of the gearbox - but its a leak alright.
Obviously something back there not tightened up or sealed properly.
Since I've copped a bit of flak for not installing a coolant re-route, should I do that now while I'm fixing the leak, or is that way too much of a pain in the butt with the engine in-situ?

I did my coolant reroute with the engine in-situ. Obviously not as easy as doing it with the head off, but I wouldnt bother pulling the motor or the head just to make fitting the reroute easier. I just swapped front and rear housings, and put the temp sensor into the block off port in the head to keep the wiring std, so removing and refitting std/thermo housing and one bolt/sensor wasnt difficult with the minimal access avail.
(I don't have any coilpacks to worry about)

If you are going the spacer option and moving the thermostat inline then may not be so doable in-situ..

ndragun · Postby **ndragun** » Mon Feb 02, 2015 10:14 am

Another wildly uninspiring, shaky, blurry video - complete with commentary by a five-year-old. This time, the first roll down the driveway and to the end of the street;

If nothing else, gives a bit of a blurry preview of the colour in the sun!

Have dealt with the coolant leak on the back of the head, turned out to simply be a loose hose clamp. Also had quite a bit of an oil leak from the filler cap surprisingly. Hand tight is not tight enough with this blingy one... At any rate, stamping out fires one at a time... Still haven't gotten to the bottom of the tacho issue though.

Main thing now, is to start working on the tune. The base map is wwwway too rich, so have needed to pull heaps of fuel out of it to get it even close to stoic. Just idling it for 15 minutes with the initial fuel map was enough to dirty a brand new set of plugs to the point where they stopped sparking.

Ice88 · Postby **Ice88** » Thu Feb 05, 2015 6:34 pm

ndragun wrote:Another wildly uninspiring, shaky, blurry video - complete with commentary by a five-year-old. This time, the first roll down the driveway and to the end of the street;

If nothing else, gives a bit of a blurry preview of the colour in the sun!

Have dealt with the coolant leak on the back of the head, turned out to simply be a loose hose clamp. Also had quite a bit of an oil leak from the filler cap surprisingly. Hand tight is not tight enough with this blingy one... At any rate, stamping out fires one at a time... Still haven't gotten to the bottom of the tacho issue though.

Main thing now, is to start working on the tune. The base map is wwwway too rich, so have needed to pull heaps of fuel out of it to get it even close to stoic. Just idling it for 15 minutes with the initial fuel map was enough to dirty a brand new set of plugs to the point where they stopped sparking.

Soak them in some carby cleaner. Clean with rag, make sure to get between the electrode and the tip, will get them good again. A roughish cloth works best. Have seen sand paper used but :/

Did them on my car, was still a bit iffy at first start. But after a drive down to the local shop the plugs where good again.

Have two sets in rotation for whenever a car shop stuffs a set

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Sat Mar 28, 2015 6:45 am

Speak with Automotive Plus as they have an air box solution that fits ITB's, retains OEM brake/clutch points, fits under bonnet, has optimal trumpet lengths and best of all gives a performance gain.

ndragun · Postby **ndragun** » Sat Mar 28, 2015 11:03 am

Danny gave us a sneak peak under your bonnet Magpie when the airbox was newly fitted - great job they've done with it.

My build for those interested took a few hits. Not long after the first trundle down the street, the engine spun a main bearing. Shortly after that, my portfolio of work has filled to overflowing, and I've been doing 18 hour days to meet my deadlines... So everything got put on hold. Such is life.

I've literally just last night put a new bottom end together and so looking to resurrect it over the easter long weekend.

ndragun · Postby **ndragun** » Sat Apr 18, 2015 8:02 pm

Finally scraped together a bit of time over the past few weeks to get the car back up and running... We're finally making some progress.
Biggest problem now is going to be tuning... Oh Grant!!?

I've had a bit of a fiddle and managed to get it idling sort of stable, albiet high. The biggest problem with the tune at the moment though is getting it to pull away at low revs. At the moment, getting the car moving requires a ton of revs and a lot of clutch slip. Anything below around 3000 rpm and the car bogs down to the point of stall. Basically feels like horrible turbo lag without the turbo.
Getting it up my steep driveway is a challenge.

On the flip side though - just the few trundles up and down the street show what a marked improvement the XIDAs and new bushes are over the old Bilsteins and king springs. The car is SO compliant and supple over bumps compared to previously.

Hopefully a few photos tomorrow...