mitch_f1's mariner NA6
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- Racing Driver
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- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Sydney
Re: mitch_f1's mariner NA6
I did a pretty big job over the last couple of weeks. I wanted to swap my rear subframe for a newer model with the extra tabs to allow for the use of extra bracing. The canon brace I had originally was good, but it restricted access to areas like the diff and the alignment bolts. Plus, I had purchased a Laile PPF brace a while ago when a good deal came up, so yeh.
Things done:
-Swap subframe (wire brushed and painted)
-changed gearbox and diff oil, plus G70 additive
-bleed brakes
-paint exhaust, seal small holes from shitty welding job
-put new DS tie rod in
-1200 grit the wats, polish, and seal them
-Also put a replica OEM rear lip on a while ago (kind of in one of the pictures below)
Pictures from last time:
Painted brake pad plates
Painted caps for plastic cowel and wiper arms
Soo empty. You can see my highly technical brake fluid stopper in the background
Things done:
-Swap subframe (wire brushed and painted)
-changed gearbox and diff oil, plus G70 additive
-bleed brakes
-paint exhaust, seal small holes from shitty welding job
-put new DS tie rod in
-1200 grit the wats, polish, and seal them
-Also put a replica OEM rear lip on a while ago (kind of in one of the pictures below)
Pictures from last time:
Painted brake pad plates
Painted caps for plastic cowel and wiper arms
Soo empty. You can see my highly technical brake fluid stopper in the background
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- Racing Driver
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- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Sydney
Re: mitch_f1's mariner NA6
So I was starting to get some brief hesitation under acceleration, so I decided that it was time to change spark plugs and leads, being that they havent been changed in almost 60,000kms (:S). Went with stock NGK BKR6E plugs and NGK RC-ZE21 leads to replace the same plugs and top gun leads. The plugs that came out all looked pretty uniform which is good, except plug 3 has a bit of oil on the top which appears to have leaked down onto it maybe from cam cover, although the lead was clean. Also happened to do a compression test and got 173 171 172 176 (4-1), which is pretty damned good for such an old car!! I was a little unhappy with the fitment of the NGK wires, which appear to be marginally too long.
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Re: mitch_f1's mariner NA6
It's been a while!! A few things have happened:
-changed PCV hose after it got a pinhole leak from rubbing the ARC intake
-changed a spring in the door lock mechanism after it broke (had to jimmy the lock open with a 1m metal ruler, despite being told that you can remove door card with door closed which is definitely not possible)
-bent the hood prop to accommodate the ARC intake. Been meaning to do this forever. Also gave it a polish to get rid of the marks made while bending it into shape
Some of you might have seen a thread of mine about a rough idle, which I am still trying to diagnose. To add to the issue my fuel economy seems to be getting worse (despite my driving getting easier). So recently I changed the oxygen sensor to an NTK one:
This hasn't changed it a lot, so next weekend I will also be changing coolant (probably won't make a difference, but it hasn't been done in a while), and running some unicorn piss through in the form of subaru upper engine.
Hopefully will see a change, but any input would be much appreciated to fix said revs and fuel economy issue.
Also looking for a solution to this problem (I know mania sells the bolster protectors, but they are $80!!!!)
-changed PCV hose after it got a pinhole leak from rubbing the ARC intake
-changed a spring in the door lock mechanism after it broke (had to jimmy the lock open with a 1m metal ruler, despite being told that you can remove door card with door closed which is definitely not possible)
-bent the hood prop to accommodate the ARC intake. Been meaning to do this forever. Also gave it a polish to get rid of the marks made while bending it into shape
Some of you might have seen a thread of mine about a rough idle, which I am still trying to diagnose. To add to the issue my fuel economy seems to be getting worse (despite my driving getting easier). So recently I changed the oxygen sensor to an NTK one:
This hasn't changed it a lot, so next weekend I will also be changing coolant (probably won't make a difference, but it hasn't been done in a while), and running some unicorn piss through in the form of subaru upper engine.
Hopefully will see a change, but any input would be much appreciated to fix said revs and fuel economy issue.
Also looking for a solution to this problem (I know mania sells the bolster protectors, but they are $80!!!!)
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- Racing Driver
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- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Sydney
Re: mitch_f1's mariner NA6
Started last night. First things first I changed headlight bulbs after I got a great deal on these OSRAM Nightbreakers (before and after pictures coming soon)
Since I got the car there has been one of the bolts that hold the hoodlatch mechanism snapped off in its hole so I decided to give it a shot at removing it. I couldn't drill it out (without removing the bumper), so I decided to soak in WD40 and then work the back of it with a pair of vice grips (there was about 7mm of exposed thread). Half an hour later
THe bumper support bracket was also broken, so I bought a replacement a while back (was cheap enough so why not)
Then today I started tackling the coolant. I put the flush through all well and good. After the third flush it went from this:
To this:
I then noticed this:
Which came out of the overflow hose. Checked the bottle, and there is a deposit of sediment in the base (this is after washing it out a couple times):
So at this point I decided to remove all the small gauge hoses to check that they weren't blocked. All was fine there. But I did notice that the ICV pipe was a bit worse for wear (centre of picture). But After using a syringe to run water through it, it flowed nicely so must not be affecting flow.
So I went about flushing it out a few times (ended up putting two bottles of radiator flush through), and then this happened:
So I've emailed ASI (the radiator people) to see if they can send me a replacement. The car is off the road for a couple days because I also discovered that both the top mounting points for the radiator were broken, so they need to be re-welded
While it was out I decided to straighten all the fins out and clean the radiator a bit (before pic)
Also replaced the two bolts that hold the top thermostat housing cause they looked like this
So this is how my car will sit for a few days yet
Since I got the car there has been one of the bolts that hold the hoodlatch mechanism snapped off in its hole so I decided to give it a shot at removing it. I couldn't drill it out (without removing the bumper), so I decided to soak in WD40 and then work the back of it with a pair of vice grips (there was about 7mm of exposed thread). Half an hour later
THe bumper support bracket was also broken, so I bought a replacement a while back (was cheap enough so why not)
Then today I started tackling the coolant. I put the flush through all well and good. After the third flush it went from this:
To this:
I then noticed this:
Which came out of the overflow hose. Checked the bottle, and there is a deposit of sediment in the base (this is after washing it out a couple times):
So at this point I decided to remove all the small gauge hoses to check that they weren't blocked. All was fine there. But I did notice that the ICV pipe was a bit worse for wear (centre of picture). But After using a syringe to run water through it, it flowed nicely so must not be affecting flow.
So I went about flushing it out a few times (ended up putting two bottles of radiator flush through), and then this happened:
So I've emailed ASI (the radiator people) to see if they can send me a replacement. The car is off the road for a couple days because I also discovered that both the top mounting points for the radiator were broken, so they need to be re-welded
While it was out I decided to straighten all the fins out and clean the radiator a bit (before pic)
Also replaced the two bolts that hold the top thermostat housing cause they looked like this
So this is how my car will sit for a few days yet
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- Racing Driver
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- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Sydney
Re: mitch_f1's mariner NA6
So I went to a NSCC club day at Wakefield today, and I made some discoveries. Said discoveries pertain to why I haven't been able to get close to my PB of 1:13.9 in a while.
First lets break down the laps into sectors:
1:13.9
S1: 16.4, S2: 13.2, S3: 25.8, S4: 18.6
(the other 1:13.9 lap)
S1: 16.7, S2: 13.0, S3: 25.9, S4: 18.2
Best time of today: 1:15.4
S1: 16.7, S2: 13.1, S3: 26.6, S4: 18.9
So it would seem that there are two sectors doing me wrong. Sector 3 and sector 4. However, sector 4 was bad for me on that lap, as I got it down to 18.4 on a subsequent lap. So sector 3 is the worst, on none of my runs today did I even get close to a 25sec sector. So this is the key to my being back in the PB territory.
First, my proudest session from today. Would you look at that consistency!!!:
Next, my session from an MX5 club day (only 4 laps, lolwot) where I got the magic PB (actually got the same time in the next session as well)
The at fault sector (the paler line is from NSCC day, denser line is from MX5 club day)
So looking at this sector it seems that I carry about 2km/h less down the hill, and about 4km/h less at the apex of the fishook (turn 7), but then I am 2km/h faster at the exit. So it seems the magic happens at the apex
But wait, lets zoom up on that line CSI: Miami style:
Same section, different lap:
So really it is the only section where this different line apparently results in my less than stellar time. Can't figure why though cause I've been told by countless people that the tighter line is the better line in this corner. But then I had so much of an issue with spinning the inside (unloaded) wheel today that maybe this different line is what is causing that (ignoring chassis setup).
So I hope I didn't just write that for no-one, and that people still glance in here occasionally. Hopefully I can fix this on the next trackday!!!
First lets break down the laps into sectors:
1:13.9
S1: 16.4, S2: 13.2, S3: 25.8, S4: 18.6
(the other 1:13.9 lap)
S1: 16.7, S2: 13.0, S3: 25.9, S4: 18.2
Best time of today: 1:15.4
S1: 16.7, S2: 13.1, S3: 26.6, S4: 18.9
So it would seem that there are two sectors doing me wrong. Sector 3 and sector 4. However, sector 4 was bad for me on that lap, as I got it down to 18.4 on a subsequent lap. So sector 3 is the worst, on none of my runs today did I even get close to a 25sec sector. So this is the key to my being back in the PB territory.
First, my proudest session from today. Would you look at that consistency!!!:
Next, my session from an MX5 club day (only 4 laps, lolwot) where I got the magic PB (actually got the same time in the next session as well)
The at fault sector (the paler line is from NSCC day, denser line is from MX5 club day)
So looking at this sector it seems that I carry about 2km/h less down the hill, and about 4km/h less at the apex of the fishook (turn 7), but then I am 2km/h faster at the exit. So it seems the magic happens at the apex
But wait, lets zoom up on that line CSI: Miami style:
Same section, different lap:
So really it is the only section where this different line apparently results in my less than stellar time. Can't figure why though cause I've been told by countless people that the tighter line is the better line in this corner. But then I had so much of an issue with spinning the inside (unloaded) wheel today that maybe this different line is what is causing that (ignoring chassis setup).
So I hope I didn't just write that for no-one, and that people still glance in here occasionally. Hopefully I can fix this on the next trackday!!!
- hamx5ter
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Re: mitch_f1's mariner NA6
Nah can't afford right now. I'm actually really happy with where I am right now. I set out to be consistent in my times and I did that yesterday. So now I just need to get rid of that second or so off of my lap to be back down into the 13/14sec lap and I will be happy as Larry
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- Racing Driver
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Re: mitch_f1's mariner NA6
Also what the heck Deen, I've not seen you in ages!
- hamx5ter
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Re: mitch_f1's mariner NA6
Everybody's doing trackdays but me... just been busy with work, although I've signed up for the club track day in December.. we'll see..
What tyres are you running?
What tyres are you running?
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- Racing Driver
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Re: mitch_f1's mariner NA6
Still R888
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- Racing Driver
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Re: mitch_f1's mariner NA6
Video:
[Can't figure out how to embed, so please click this link]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AlKJtbrTpDU
[Can't figure out how to embed, so please click this link]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AlKJtbrTpDU
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- Racing Driver
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Re: mitch_f1's mariner NA6
So you might have heard on the video that every shift into 3rd crunched pretty painfully. The week following I lost 3rd completely. So found a new (to me) gearbox and swapped it in this weekend past.
Piece of synchro retaining spring on sump plug:
Took the opportunity to put a new water plug on the back of the head, just as well cause it was pretty crusty inside
Also took the opportunity to put a new water temp sensor in in an attempt to return to the fuel economy I used to have in the car (was able to get 400km out of a tank around town, now is about 300-350/tank). Found that the plug was soaked in oil, and I've no idea where it came from cause there was no oil back there. Anyway, cleaned out the plug, and put the new one on. Was a pain in the tit to get the old one off cause it was properly locked on!!
Piece of synchro retaining spring on sump plug:
Took the opportunity to put a new water plug on the back of the head, just as well cause it was pretty crusty inside
Also took the opportunity to put a new water temp sensor in in an attempt to return to the fuel economy I used to have in the car (was able to get 400km out of a tank around town, now is about 300-350/tank). Found that the plug was soaked in oil, and I've no idea where it came from cause there was no oil back there. Anyway, cleaned out the plug, and put the new one on. Was a pain in the tit to get the old one off cause it was properly locked on!!
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Re: mitch_f1's mariner NA6
Rebuilt my brakes for the second time this weekend.
Old rotors quite worn. Rear still usable though
First rear caliper I pulled apart is the one I had rebuilt previously,a nd it looked fantastic inside; still heaps greasy
Second rear caliper was one I took to a shop to get rebuilt in 2010, and it wasn't so nice. Rubber gunk on the piston:
The grease used was also very viscous and looked like too much had been used. But weirdly a different thingymajig screw was used (left) to OEM (right), which meant different C-clip, which took me a while to figure out cause my circlip pliers couldn't get into the smaller hole:
But also, there was some weird sleeve inserted at the back of the caliper, presumably to use the new thingymagjig screw, so the OEM item was unable to fit in with its c-clip. I ended up pulling a spare caliper out and used that instead because of its OEM fitment:
Rears done:
Fronts I had rebuilt, and they also looked fantastic. How the piston came out:
Halfway through cleaning it up:
Bores looked close to brand new
Done with new sliders pins as well
I went to Japan recently where I got told about Acre brake pads, so I went with their Light Sports pad, which is virtually the same as the RS Factory Stage S500 pads I used to use, and very similar to the QFM A1RM pad, and the Hawk HP+, BUT they are quite a bit cheaper, and made in Japan. The size is just abit larger than the old A1RM, so should use slightly more rotor
All done:
I went with solid rotors this time for two reasons:
1) cost
2) talking with Daniel Deckers, and looking into race car builds over in the states a lot of cars are using solid face rotors because it provides more braking surface. So if they're using it, then there must be some benefit of it.
Old rotors quite worn. Rear still usable though
First rear caliper I pulled apart is the one I had rebuilt previously,a nd it looked fantastic inside; still heaps greasy
Second rear caliper was one I took to a shop to get rebuilt in 2010, and it wasn't so nice. Rubber gunk on the piston:
The grease used was also very viscous and looked like too much had been used. But weirdly a different thingymajig screw was used (left) to OEM (right), which meant different C-clip, which took me a while to figure out cause my circlip pliers couldn't get into the smaller hole:
But also, there was some weird sleeve inserted at the back of the caliper, presumably to use the new thingymagjig screw, so the OEM item was unable to fit in with its c-clip. I ended up pulling a spare caliper out and used that instead because of its OEM fitment:
Rears done:
Fronts I had rebuilt, and they also looked fantastic. How the piston came out:
Halfway through cleaning it up:
Bores looked close to brand new
Done with new sliders pins as well
I went to Japan recently where I got told about Acre brake pads, so I went with their Light Sports pad, which is virtually the same as the RS Factory Stage S500 pads I used to use, and very similar to the QFM A1RM pad, and the Hawk HP+, BUT they are quite a bit cheaper, and made in Japan. The size is just abit larger than the old A1RM, so should use slightly more rotor
All done:
I went with solid rotors this time for two reasons:
1) cost
2) talking with Daniel Deckers, and looking into race car builds over in the states a lot of cars are using solid face rotors because it provides more braking surface. So if they're using it, then there must be some benefit of it.
- ManiacLachy
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Re: mitch_f1's mariner NA6
This is an interestsing thread, I don't think I've looked through it before. Keep up the good work!
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