2011 MX5 Mod Options and their impact on Roadworthiness

[hks_kansei]

Personally I'd say it won't need an alignment after changing wheels/tyres, but that's just me (I know a lot of people disagree on this)

Swaybars, it depends on what needs to be removed in order to fit them, on an NA and NB you don't need an alignment afterwards.
But if you need to remove/loosen the suspension arms or somethign on the NC then an alignment will be likely.

Servicing I would not bother with dealerships since they often cost more than other options.
I would also not bother with a specialist for basic servicing (unless they charge similarly to any normal garage)

Personally I wouldn't go near one of the Vic MX5 specialists with a barge pole, since they provided terrible service, and equally terrible quality of work to my partner when she used them (and a few others have had issues too). However, other people I know have found them great.

[jassi]

Servicing I would not bother with dealerships since they often cost more than other options.
I would also not bother with a specialist for basic servicing (unless they charge similarly to any normal garage).

So then where do you get the servicing done?

[Mr Morlock]

Where do you get a car serviced? Thats a personal choice. Bear in mind that standard servicing in a car like an MX5 is very simple and any competent mechanic can do this work. The important thing for most is merely to select a business which is convenient and where one feels comfortable with the business. Sometimes you find that out by trial and error and others you take a recommendation from a friend or other local business. I know guys who always took cars to dealers even older cars and now get their car serviced by home mechanics. Dealers generally charge more i.e. a reflection of overheads etc. All these things are checkable i.e. ask the labour rate per hour etc. The MX5 factory can do this work but whether it suits geographically etc is another thing- i.e. if you live in Altona you don't travel to Ringwood - you get the drift. I would not generalise on dealers - i.e. some do a terrific job and some have a great service ethic.

[jassi]

^^ well I'm close to MX5 Factory as well as walking distance to Ringwood Mazda, hence thought I'll check with others Agree it's a personal choice at the end of day balanced by convenience, cost and quality of work!

[jassi]

Thanks to Dick & Adrian at MX5 Factory - the gwr super-q muffler is installed today. We used the oem o-ring gasket and permatex ultra copper to make a good seal as the gwr supplied flat gasket would not allow a good seal with stock mid pipe. I chose to remove the silencing baffles and the muffler has a decent growl (10% more than stock) when accelerating and yet no drone at cruising speed (2700rpm). Haven't been able to try '100kmph on freeway' test yet though. Overall quite pleased with the minor (perhaps perceived) grunt

[MLR]

Servicing I would not bother with dealerships since they often cost more than other options.
I would also not bother with a specialist for basic servicing (unless they charge similarly to any normal garage).

So then where do you get the servicing done?

The best place to get a service is in your own garage, its a simple task that anyone can undertake.

You can choose the best fluids and lubricants and such and it will cost the same or even less than the generic stuff a shop would put in.

A basic tool kit and some stands is all you need, purchased with the money saved, a manual is handy too and always a good read when you are trying to pull things apart.

Plus I feel there is nothing more satisfying than getting in and around your motor and all the oily bits.

I always have some fresh oil/filter/fluids/plugs laying around for when its closed to service time and I'm bored

The more you do yourself the more confidence you build, after a while you will be servicing your brakes, and if you get the bug, even some modifications.

You need to be safety conscience but its not rocket science.

My view is: A driver will service their own car and reap the rewards, a commuter will pay someone to do it for them and never really know their car.

[taminga16]

Regarding alignments, My tyre bloke is in Bendigo ( and alignments do count) but I am sure that someone closer to you would know of a good tyre service or if you are near or can get to High St Waverly call John on 0412877399 and chat with him.
Greg.

[taminga16]

Jassi,
Your muffler will begin to sound 'richer' after you do a few miles, you car is NOT the same colour as Reggie's and the difference between an alignment and a good one is easily measured, our little cars are also very sensitive to tyre pressures, purchase a good gauge and and inexpensive foot pump so that you can sort it out and play around before you leave home while getting your hands dirty at the same time:). Check some of the garage threads from the Sydney crowd, they use an alignment company called "Spinning Wheel" and get results. It is a nonsense to dismiss the value of a good alignment, not to mention what a shitty one will do to a $400.00 tyre.
Greg.

[jassi]

Regarding alignments, My tyre bloke is in Bendigo ( and alignments do count) but I am sure that someone closer to you would know of a good tyre service or if you are near or can get to High St Waverly call John on 0412877399 and chat with him.

I am in Ringwood so nowhere near Bendigo do you mean high street glen waverley or mount waverley? I was recommended bob jane in ringwood as being good.

Your muffler will begin to sound 'richer' after you do a few miles

agree I had that happen when I did the muffler and then later headers in my older car. Drove on the eastern today at 100-105kmph (yeah the speedo error with stock tyres!) and noticed no drone at 2700-3000rpm on 6th. Only when i accelerate, there is a nice note and no booming on decel, so quite pleased with the muffler

you car is NOT the same colour as Reggie's

agree, mine is a special edition and there were only 200 of these sold in Aus and the choices were Dolphin Grey Mica, Sparkling Black Mica and Aluminium Metallic. i believe mine is the aluminium metallic then, as the vicroads rego lookup says silver.

the difference between an alignment and a good one is easily measured, our little cars are also very sensitive to tyre pressures

yes point very much noted - i currently sit at 38-39psi on all 4 tyres (came down from the 40 recommended by defense driving courses). WIll get an alignment done, as I am unsure whether the dealer servicing has ever addressed it appropriately and they certainly haven't shared any alignment numbers with me. I was reading somewhere its recommended to have the left and right sides on the same numbers, so will look into that as well.

[jassi]

Hi All - thanks for the guidance so far. Some more questions on a possible shopping list since I may have one or two U.S. trips coming up

In your experience handling parts and their relative sizes snd weights, do you think one or more of the following would fit in check in baggage and which ones should I prioritise first
1) progress springs for my oem bilsteins - researched a lot on coil overs but don't think I need em given my street use. Should I also get Fcm 36/58mm Bumpstops for lowered mx5s?
2) koni sport shocks - given my oem bilsteins have done around 60k kms, do they have more life or is it wise to go for konis right away as well? I quite like the idea of going spring first then shocks later to experience each mod better but also hear it's expensive as it requires opening up the whole suspension multiple times as well as alignments. Also these may lower the car too much beyond just progress springs and I'm concerned of scraping speed humps!
3) gwr street header or max power header - is a header too big for checkin baggage? Specs say 7kgs and around 470x470x170mm or 1.5 feet x 1.5 feet. Now the reason I'm thinking gwr catted street header because VicRoads says the catcon and O2 sensor positions shouldn't change to be street legal and the gwr street header has a built in catcon and place for the two O2 cables is this good compromise or should I just look at gwr max power?
4) stuff that maybe oversized for checkin - gwr mid pipe (4 feet long) and progress sways (5 feet long). Enkei Pf01 17x8 wheels

[taminga16]

Hi Jassi,
38 psi is far too much TP, read the door card! I run mine at 30, John is on the corner of High St and Kerrie Rd. Get the tyres/ alignment sorted and just drive it for a little while.
Greg.

[Mr Morlock]

I run 32 and don't forget that tyre pressures also affect the comfort of the ride- too much air and harder more skittish ride- just let some air out and see what you think. The recommendation re the alignment is yours to consider and its convenient and when you go you mention that you were given a recommendation from... - there are actually quite a number of cars around with 4 wheel adjustment for alignments so its not like cold stiching cast iron components.

Personally I would not consider lumping car parts back from an OS trip- you run the risk of overweight baggage and a cost that might easily surpass any savings- you might even get a query on what you are carrying and find a restriction that you don't know about. Still do some homework re airline and bear in mind that another piece of luggage will not come free. If you have to buy parts from OS then do you sums of what is the landed cost ordered here. . Insofar as suspensions are concerned I very much doubt that a suspension is worn out i.e. shockers after 60K- many do triple that without a problem.

You have to work out what's worth spending- its easily spent but not so easily used wisely.

[jassi]

mr morlock and taminga16 - thanks for the advise on tyre pressures and alignment. My placard just says paint codes and vin, so never had a reference. The manual does 30 psi, but i figured that was more for comfort and so I just blindly followed the defense driving course recommendation of 40 all this while, only recently went down to 38-39. Will go down lower pressures and see how it feels

You have to work out what's worth spending- its easily spent but not so easily used wisely.

very well put Mr. morlock - i will carefully consider and prioritise the mods. Don't intend to bring back the whole list in one go but i do travel very light as these are work trips and have a 50kg checked baggage limit with qantas

Insofar as suspensions are concerned I very much doubt that a suspension is worn out i.e. shockers after 60K- many do triple that without a problem.

makes sense, will just look at the progress springs (and maybe fcm bumpstops for lowering springs) for now then as my car is purely a spirited daily driver and I think my shocks may have much more life left on them! Will think carefully how I prioritise the rest of the items on my list mentioned above

[taminga16]

Mate,
Purchase a gauge, drop the pressures to 30 psi (cold), making decisions on handling improvements while you are running 38 psi is a waste of time, Mazda spent millions and years getting our little cars just right, the instructor was correct in suggesting upping the pressures, but irresponsible by not insuring that you deflated the tyres before you left the complex, it would be handling like a camel on skates not to mention poor braking performance.
Greg.

[jassi]

Mate,
Purchase a gauge, drop the pressures to 30 psi (cold),

thanks Greg - whats a decent gauge recommended and easily available - don't want the cheapo inaccurate ones but at the same time can't afford the longacre 400$ ones recommended on this forum!!
BTW the door sill placard says 29psi, and i guess i got used to the 40psi skittish behaviour over time! Will drop to 30 and go up from there if needed. this is embarassing