Changing Clutch on NC

magenb · Postby **magenb** » Mon Feb 16, 2015 7:19 am

Does any one have a cheat sheet on changing the clutch in an NC for the sockets that are needed?
Also any recommendations on the type of grease to use?

Charlie Brown · Postby **Charlie Brown** » Mon Feb 16, 2015 10:50 am

Can't help you with cheat sheets but I was there when Daniel (Deckspeed) did mine and it went something like this.

You need a full size trolley jack, 4 very high jack stands. (If you're a bushie then 4 x 44 gallon drums will do pius a fork lift.)

From up top, remove the console plastic and then the gear stick.

From underneath, drain the oil, remove the PPF, clutch slave cylinder, exhaust system (midpipe) tailshaft, reversing light cable and starter motor.
Support the box with the floor jack (it's very heavy) and undo the bolts that connect the box to the motor.
Slide the box off the engine and lower it to the floor.
Unbolt the pressure plate and remove with the clutch plate.
Check the flywheel to determine if it needs machining, or take it off and fit a new light weight fly.

While the box is out replace the two square nylon selector bushes. DON'T MISS THIS STEP. I think there's a post on this in the technical section or speak with Chis Gough or Daniel about this. My bushes lasted 128,000 kilometers, others have lasted way less. These bushes get brittle with age and break. When this happens you can't select gears and the box has to come out. My bushes went way before I needed a clutch.
When that's all done, reassemble in reverse of strip down, use a clutch alignment tool before tightening down the pressure plate bolts.

Total time when you know what your doing: 4+ hours.

Sockets you'll need: 12, 14, 16, 17 and I think a 24 for the PPF?

Too much to do yourself or don't have all the tools? It's easier to get the experts to do it.

Good luck. :beer:

magenb · Postby **magenb** » Mon Feb 16, 2015 3:02 pm

Charlie Brown wrote:Can't help you with cheat sheets

Sockets you'll need: 12, 14, 16, 17 and I think a 24 for the PPF?

That's the cheat sheet I was looking for, cheers

Charlie Brown wrote:but I was there when Daniel (Deckspeed) did mine and it went something like this.

Anyone know if he's back from Japan?

Charlie Brown wrote:
While the box is out replace the two square nylon selector bushes. DON'T MISS THIS STEP. I think there's a post on this in the technical section or speak with Chis Gough or Daniel about this. My bushes lasted 128,000 kilometers, others have lasted way less. These bushes get brittle with age and break. When this happens you can't select gears and the box has to come out.

Wasn't aware of that one, thanks!!!

Regie · Postby **Regie** » Mon Feb 16, 2015 4:51 pm

My clutch is shitting me so i might be doing a change soon, ill grab some pics and info when it happens.

Chris Gough (mx5parts.com.au) a forum sponsor has aluminium replacement bushes available (also the nylon ones)

Postby **mx5parts** » Mon Feb 16, 2015 8:25 pm

Further to what Phil and Adam have said there are actually 3 of the nylon bushes which should be done. The shifter that bolts to the top do the gearbox contains 2 and there is a 3rd one that is for the 3rd/4th adjuster down the L/H inside of the box. 90% of the failures are with the ones in the top shifter however it's an extra 5 minute job to do when it's apart and a 4+ hour job to do if it fails......

You actually don't need to remove the starter on an NC as it bolts to the block and is independent of the gearbox.

I also suggest you stand the gearbox up and drain the shifter section of the gearbox. The oil here is often overlooked and I've seen cases where it has been left dry as the mechanic believed it shared the oil with the box.

Another overlooked area is the clutch hydraulic fluid which shares the master cylinder reservoir with the brakes. As the pipe runs close to the exhaust the fluid does deteriorate over time. Take this opportunity to flush the fluid and bleed this as well.

Finally, check the free play at the pedal adjustment. It's not unusual for this to need adjusting, especially if you've machined or replaced the flywheel with a lightened one. Sometimes after the clutch has settled in, you will need to reset this free play again.

We carry most of the bits and pieces including heavy duty clutch kits, Exedy and Fidanza flywheels, bushes, etc.

See mx5parts.com.au for details.

Chris.

Regie · Postby **Regie** » Mon Feb 16, 2015 8:45 pm

Ill be hitting you up for some clutch goodies soon Chris

magenb · Postby **magenb** » Tue Feb 17, 2015 12:49 pm

Anyone happen to have the part number for the bushes? or a place I could look up the part numbers?

magenb · Postby **magenb** » Wed Feb 18, 2015 9:11 am

OK after trying to hit most of the online part stores, it clear ever man and his dog is talking about a different bush.

So do you mean to replace the square bushes as listed here -> viewtopic.php?f=18&t=54606

or

17-481D/A

Postby **mx5parts** » Wed Feb 18, 2015 11:03 am

You need 3 x 17-503. 2 are in the selector section not shown in your picture whereas the one shown is for the 3rd/4th shifter fork. These can only be done by removing the gearbox and removing the shifter section off the top.

Check 17-481 (no 1) and 17-450B for wear. They can cause loose feeling shifts and increased vagueness in the shifter. These can be changed at a later date from above by removing the gearstick.

http://www.mx5parts.com.au/tips-and-tri ... ard-select

chris@mx5parts.com.au