NB8A + turbo + DIYPNP MS2 tuning and cooling revisit

wydra · Postby **wydra** » Sun Feb 01, 2015 3:45 am

Hey guys,

I have had my car running for quite a while now with the turbo setup and DIYPNP MS2.
Unfortunately I have been too busy over the previous months to use the car so it has pretty much just sitting in my garage. Over February I am entering in a couple of events so need to get everything ready for this hot weather.

To date, I have a stock bottom end, re-valved head with new metal head gasket and ARP stud kit.
Turbo is a GT2560R with a decent sized front mount IC.
52mm ASI radiator with 1.3bar cap, 50/50 glycol/water and some Redline water wetter.
11 row oil cooler installed in front of the front drivers wheel.

When the ECU was tuned the weather was a lot cooler and I think I need to revisit this.
I am running a big enough fuel pump, RX8 (425-450cc) injectors and WBO2 and it is all tuned to low boost setting of about 0.6bar and high boost of about 1bar.

Most of the time everything is fine, but as the events will be in this VERY hot weather, I think it is time to revisit the cooling and the tuning.
I am going to spend some time with the front aero and making sure the radiator/ac radiator/intercooler is all sealed up and am actually going to put in a couple of inlet vents in above where the main radiator vent is.

Question 1. Does anyone else have a similar setup and is happy with their ignition maps that they would be willing to share so I can compare?

Question 2. At idle, what advance and AFR are people tuning to? and what is recommended? (my idle is perfect but I think too advanced and too rich)

Question 3. When I put the head back on I also put a set of adjustable cam gears on but have it all set to "0". Has anyone played around with inlet or exhaust cam timing?

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Thu Feb 05, 2015 7:15 am

Q1 don't copy spark maps. Quick way to detonation

Q2 10 deg idle and 13.7 AFR

Q3 cause FI, remove overlap

sailaholic · Postby **sailaholic** » Thu Feb 05, 2015 7:50 am

Run glycol free coolant + water wetter

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wydra · Postby **wydra** » Thu Feb 05, 2015 1:50 pm

gslender:
Q1. I already have a spark map which I think is too aggressive for this heat, I want to have a look at someone elses with similar setup to compare and possible retard mine slightly, not just copy.
Q2. so set the ECU to 10deg base idle, what value are you running on the map at idle? somewhere around 14-17 deg?
Q3. Are you able to expand on this? What side would you remove the overlap from? or both?

sailaholic:
What glycol free coolant do you recommend? I have half a bottle of water wetter spare so will give this a try.

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Thu Feb 05, 2015 7:02 pm

wydra wrote:gslender:
Q1. I already have a spark map which I think is too aggressive for this heat, I want to have a look at someone elses with similar setup to compare and possible retard mine slightly, not just copy.
Q2. so set the ECU to 10deg base idle, what value are you running on the map at idle? somewhere around 14-17 deg?
Q3. Are you able to expand on this? What side would you remove the overlap from? or both?

Re Q1 - You may as well be looking at a spark map from a V8 engine... honestly it is that pointless to just compare as so many things impact spark curves... cams, compression ratio, fuel type, base timing etc

Re Q2 - I don't follow what you are asking. The idle range is set to spark at 10 deg and AFR target is 13.7 - in the ECU I run I have spark idle compensation which adjust the spark timing up and down (continuously in realtime) to ensure the RPM is dead bang on 950 rpm... so the base is 10 deg and it goes up or down 5 deg depending on the engine rpm at that point in time.

Re Q3 - normally you'd open the intake a little later (retard) as you are forcing air and don't need to rely on the piston stroke to suck air into the engine. A little overlap is advised to flush the exhaust charge out with clean air (and if possible, time the fuel after that to reduce waste)

sailaholic · Postby **sailaholic** » Thu Feb 05, 2015 9:51 pm

I can't find the last one I purchased it was either nulon or penrite. It's essentially just distilled water, colour and corrosion inhibitor. You probably could just run distilled water & water wetter as I think it's supposed to have corrosion inhibitors in it?

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maxgus · Postby **maxgus** » Mon Feb 09, 2015 5:31 pm

Yep just run water wetter and demineralized water. You will only need one bottle of water wetter. 90% should be water as it is better at heat transfer.

4sfed5 · Postby **4sfed5** » Sun Feb 22, 2015 8:27 am

Go on the miataturbo.net forum and ask about timing maps. youll get some good info to at least compare your map too. these guys run in some pretty hot parts of the world so it gives you something to compare to.