Bubbling clearcoat, rain and vinyl wrap

Mr Morlock · Postby **Mr Morlock** » Tue Jan 27, 2015 7:48 pm

I would think Plastidip is a bit of a gimmick not a real paint system. . Painting is all about preparation ie 90% of the work is how the surface is prepared. There are many guides on how to paint and prepare. Bruce is probably right a rattle can will do it and even some pros use this for smaller areas. If prepared well it will look pretty good. A repetitive suggestion but talk to an auto paint supplier for all info including what to rub it down with and the gritstone- 2000 is super fine. . Rattle cans will likely be acrylic paint.

slyfox2151 · Postby **slyfox2151** » Wed Jan 28, 2015 12:38 am

I'm going to use black plasti dip to fix up my front bumper in the next week or two, Its about $65 for 4 cans or 10 for $150. I'll let you know how it goes.

Has lots of deep scratches on one side and a cut near the center.

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Wed Jan 28, 2015 9:15 am

slyfox2151 wrote:I'm going to use black plasti dip to fix up my front bumper in the next week or two, Its about $65 for 4 cans or 10 for $150. I'll let you know how it goes.

Has lots of deep scratches on one side and a cut near the center.

Why not buy some filler and paint and do the job right?
The cut will still show under Plastishit as will the scratches (if deep enough)

Even if the scratches are hidden by the stuff you'll still end up with a bumper that looks like it was painted by Stevie Wonder.

Pureview · Postby **Pureview** » Fri Jan 30, 2015 4:38 pm

I've done a lot of vinyl wrapping jobs and I wouldn't recommend it unless your paint is almost perfect with a nice clearcoat to stick it to (if you want it to last long and look good). It could work with cracked paint or on primer but it will only last no longer than a year. The vinyl is very thin so bumps and deep scratches will show up and look weird and when you decide to remove it, even with a steam gun or heat gun, it will take the paint with it.

lizard · Postby **lizard** » Fri Jan 30, 2015 4:46 pm

Pureview wrote:I've done a lot of vinyl wrapping jobs and I wouldn't recommend it unless your paint is almost perfect with a nice clearcoat to stick it to (if you want it to last long and look good). It could work with cracked paint or on primer but it will only last no longer than a year. The vinyl is very thin so bumps and deep scratches will show up and look weird and when you decide to remove it, even with a steam gun or heat gun, it will take the paint with it.

Thankyou

bruce · Postby **bruce** » Fri Jan 30, 2015 9:42 pm

So vinyl wrap won't last long on primer. My only choice is Plastidip or spray cans?

malibu Q · Postby **malibu Q** » Sun Feb 01, 2015 12:30 am

If your clearcoat has failed and is peeling off, it would be best to sand the edges to blend them. I recommend using a hard sanding block and #320 then #600 wet and dry to level the area. When it is smooth, prime any bare metal spots. An acrylic based aerosol would be fine. Re #600 the primer when it is dry. If you want it last a long time use an aerosol of acrylic colour to seal it as primer is not waterproof, long term. I think this would be smooth enough to wrap but if you don't think so, grab a sheet of #2000 and go over it to finish. Good luck.