Modifying an SE

[Danny]

Dann, I've been tasked to pick your brain. 240rwhp is appealing.

What will my mate get? Will it be a full supply, fit and tune (dyno)? How long will the work take?

We're assuming there'll be a new turbo, manifold and exhaust system. Also an intercooler and changed air cleaner with all associated plumbing. Does the blow off valve (new?) plumb back into the system? Will the waste gate control be electronic or pneumatic like the SP? Will it be chipped, get a piggy back or replacement PNP ECU? What about the clutch and radiator?

Any change for the fuel pump and fuel lines? Do the early NB's have the old head gasket? The later models we believe have an improved h/g for better coolant flow to the rear of the engine. Is the c/r lowered? What's the boost pressure finalize at?

Does that cover it or is there other stuff as well?

[bruce]

Resale
&
Legality

Plenty of turboed NBs struggling to sell, or reverted back to stock and parts sold off.

Depending on State you'd need it Engineered. Costly and time consuming.

Buy an SE and the above is OK.

[NitroDann]

Engineering is cheap and very easy, and any SE worth owning requires it also.

[NitroDann]

Dann, I've been tasked to pick your brain. 240rwhp is appealing.

What will my mate get? Will it be a full supply, fit and tune (dyno)?
yes yes yes yes

How long will the work take?
depends on options and requirements but typically it needs to be left for a few weeks.


We're assuming there'll be a new turbo, manifold and exhaust system.

yep, new Garrett, new handmade steampipe basic manifold and full 2.5" or 3" 100% stainless exhaust including a gorgeous separatedgases downpipe.

Also an intercooler and changed air cleaner with all associated plumbing. Does the blow off valve (new?) plumb back into the system?

yes, not enclosed by default, new TurboSmart BOV, plumbed back in.

Will the waste gate control be electronic or pneumatic like the SP?

electronic, and far more clever than the factory arrangement, run by the ecu and on a 3D table referencing rpm and actual throttle position in order to deliver the exact amount of torque you ask for regardless of any other factors.

Will it be chipped, get a piggy back or replacement PNP ECU?

full standalone.

What about the clutch and radiator?

a basic organic heavy duty clutch much like stock will be fitted. No cooling system mods will be included at this price or is needed on a street car.

Any change for the fuel pump and fuel lines? Do the early NB's have the old head gasket? The later models we believe have an improved h/g for better coolant flow to the rear of the engine. Is the c/r lowered? What's the boost pressure finalize at?

There are no changes to any part of the engine itself, inside or out, the injectors will be upgraded but the pump, lines, internals etc are all left exactly as Mazda designed them. This is why the power limit Is at only 240whp.
Boost pressure is not static on any of my 200+whp builds. It is determined by rpm and torque output, on 1.6 builds that have stock engines and e85 it has been as high as 18psi, however typically will be around 12 or 13.
Boost is not a measure of HP its a measure of restriction at a particular flow level, as such I have run up to 22psi on stock engines and made only 200hp, which is completely safe. The huge restrictions in place necessitated a lot of boost to only make 200hp.
Its not boost that breaks engines its torque.


Does that cover it or is there other stuff as well?

You might need further explanation about how it will be tuned and why the boost won't be static, if you'd like to discuss that or anything else please pm me for my contact number and we can chat.
Anybody reading feel free to post here to ask anything too.

Dann

[bruce]

Ease of Engineering depends upon State. In Vic it is difficult.

[Danny]

Can't be done. And I'll say that more emphatically now than I did on 1st Jan.

The 5 speed ones are off the list and any 6 speed MX before MY2002 has the small brakes and flexi shell without the stiffening brackets and butterfly brace. So they're out too as upgrading and labour further reduces any cost advantage. The extra stiffness is a bit more weight, yeah, but for the right reasons.

Then once we started looking at the post MY2002 and factored in the cost of a torsen, which isn't as common as we hoped, suspension upgrade, even getting used SE Bilsteins and it's fatter roll bars fitted, plus the other bits to equate to an SE, (quite a few non turbos have worn drivers' seat bolsters) the extra one or two grand for an SE plus stage 2 looks more attractive. (There's always the possibility to fit a bigger turbo and re-tune later on if even more power is desired.) Plus the 17in wheels look good, are fine for the road and offer enough potential with the right tyres. So what if they're a kilo or two heavier. I weighed some 15's which averaged around 6kilos. The 17's look like they're around 8.

I'm ready to be flamed, but like for like (mileage, condition, paintwork, soft top condition etc) we can't see any $$$ advantage to modifying a non-turbo in preference to the SE's for sale. We even reckon with the way expenses always tend to blow out on these projects, starting with an SE may cost less in the long run. And when the time comes to move on, which will be more saleable?

[davekmoore]

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