High temps in summer heat.....suggestions please.

[SuperMazdaKart]

Get rid of the anti-freeze. Try this http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Coolin ... .VJNiu7AQ0.

You could do a drain, flush and fill with distilled water to see if it's going to be cooler. Should be as water is the most efficient. If so add the Nulon for it's corrosion protection and keep away from the snow.

I use the Nulon Ultra Cool in my two cars It's a motor-sport suitable coolant without antifreeze. In my Familia GTR though it might be too effective at it's job as on the highways at a constant 5th gear crusing 110 kph the car doesn't generate much heat from the interior heater & struggles to maintain the regular operating water temp. Takes a while to warm up in regular suburban traffic too.

I have used the Redline Water Wetter stuff in the past too. Works well, but did eventually leave some brown gunk in the system. Even after a good flushing out before refill by a radiator repair shop.

[maxgus]

So far the water wetter seems to be working. Need to get it on the highway and see how it goes.

[davekmoore]

Water Wetter has been good for me too. From: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/REDLINE-oil- ... 2a379bb685

On the same page on ebay there are several people offering the same product at over $1,000. I think this may be wrong! $27.50 delivered from Harold is better. He's a decent bloke too.

[maxgus]

That's ridiculous! I got it for $29 from the race store that's less than a kilometer away!

[sailaholic]

Taking your comment from else where. Bonnet venting shouldn't be required. Get your ducting and rad top plate first .

[maxgus]

Picking up rad plate later this week but if that fails will be venting.

[davekmoore]

Rad plate can't fail. It will contribute to helping get more air through rather than around the radiator. Enough foam sealant around the radiator will further contribute, as will further ducting. Ducting shouldn't be needed, but you might like the look?

[sailaholic]

Given your only making 121 kw and using 8 psi boost (which is a nice figure) any many make more with out bonnet vents for cooling I'd still be asking what's causing your system to need it?

Once all the ducting is done maybe looking at a better radiator like a FM or track speed unit?

[maxgus]

Using a koyo rad.....should be fine. It only heats up with the air con on. Has been behaving since I changed the fluid. I'm looking at venting to also not cook everything else under the bonnet. Goodwin racing have a reasonably cheap and proven bonnet venting system.

[davekmoore]

Yup, that's a different issue. Please post results if you do the Goodwin vents.

[Magpie]

My motor makes more power than yours (however naturaly aspirated) and the exhaust temps get upto 800 degs for sustained periods on the track, I have no overheating issues. Yes I have a NACA vent in the bonnet but it is to get cool air to the ITB's not to draw hot air out.

Goodwin racing have a reasonably cheap and proven bonnet venting system do you know how this was proven? I thought it was designed to fit within the reinforcement of the bonnet not taking into account any aerodynamics.

I guess I have posted enough on this but you need to understand the air flow both above and below the bonnet. Adding vents could make the problem worse. If the air pressure inside the engine bay is increased less air will flow through the engine bay making your heat issues worse. Do some pressure differential testing where you plan to install the vents to see if they will work as planned, you will be suprised or I will be! However you can install a reverse NACA duct and this will 'suck' air out simply because of its design.

The louvers ship flat (unbent), you bend the fins when you receive them, and the finish work is up to you. Powdercoat will have great longevity, but even simple Rustoleum flat black looks fantastic. This is the problem, what angle did they test the fins at too steep oe shallow and the effect could be undesirable. If they are too steep drag will also increase and the air will stall, but that is another issue

Other thoughts are you could wrap/ceramic coat the exhaust, however if it is stainless like mine wrapping is not an available option.

[davekmoore]

Goodwin product looks good. They don't ship to Australia though.

[maxgus]

I understand that bonnet venting is a science and understand that from the research I have done the Goodwin racing product is in the right area. I have used Goodwin before and he has been very helpful do I'm sure if I contact Brian he will advise me on the angle to bend the find to. A guy down South now brings Goodwin Racing Gear into the country.

Exhaust is already wrapped.

[Magpie]

Keep the forum posted how it goes. If interested I can post some data on temps before and after a vented GV Bonnet was installed. The GV bonnet does work however there is a potential legal issue it needs to be a min 1.5mm thick to conform to road rules in QLD. I have had a defect notice already hence why it is not used on the road, however I just need to remove the bonnet pins and I can measure the tickness and see for myself. The defect notice was given based on what it is made of only, I digress.

The GV bonnet works because of how it is shapped and where it is located. To improve all that is needed is a duct on the inside from the radiator up to the opening and the under bonnet temps will drop even more. However with the GV bonnet I can not have the NACA duct for the ITB's, decisions.

[maxgus]

Yeah no worries mate. Let me know how you go. I'm heading to NSW tomorrow for Xmas so I will definately see if what I have done has made the difference. I'm also picking up a rad top panel in the way through.