mrpham's summer build

[plohl]

So the sound output from the tablet goes to the amp then the car's speakers?

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[mrpham]

So the sound output from the tablet goes to the amp then the car's speakers?

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Yep, so it goes from Tablet to the USB DAC, than that feeds the amplifier, than the speaker.

[mrpham]

Boot Light - http://omgpham.com/boot-light

Just a quick update, I've installed a boot light and it's amazing! Please excuse the image quality, they were all taken using my phone.

Install doesn't take very long and everything is plug-and-play. Kit comes with a LED mounted on a stainless steel bracket, boot switch and wiring harness.




Photo taken without flash at 9PM.



I also removed my tombstone to give it a quick coat of Plasti-Dip, the surface was a bit too rubbery/grippy for my liking so I gave it a quick wipe with some interior detailing products. Worked out very well

[mrpham]

New amp arrived!

Doubt it makes anywhere near the power it claims, but as long as it's around 2x 20watts RMS I'll be happy.

More details tomorrow.

[mrpham]

New Amplifier - http://omgpham.com/new-amplifier

It's a Pyle PLMRMP1B, a tiny little marine amplifier. Claims to make 2x 100watts RMS, but it's more like 2x 20watts! Still sufficient for my speakers and the MX-5 though. And I'm happy with it's sound quality, not the best amp I've heard but for the size and money it's good.




The amplifier uses a STA540SAN made by STMicroelectronics. Specs confirm the power to be around 2x 20watts RMS.

I installed connectors on the little amplifier, and it also comes with a remote volume control knob. Will have to find a place to install/hide it.




Everything mounted up.

[mrpham]

Engine Rebuild Part 1 - http://omgpham.com/engine-rebuild-part-1

Hey guyyyyyyyyyyssssss!

My goal has always been to build my bottom end, forged high compression pistons, forged rods and maybe a decent over-bore. As everything with my car, I would prefer to learn and do it myself. So this rebuild is more of a refresh using stock pistons and rods, a learning exercise/practice before I attempt the forged build.

So over the last week I've been slowly pulling apart my spare block, getting it ready for the machine shop. I'm also wire brushing and prepping the block for a fresh coat of paint.

Pulled the head and sump off, and quickly checked the side-to-side clearances, crank thrust and bearing clearances.




Everything out and ready for the machine shop.

[mrpham]

Engine Rebuild Part 3 - http://omgpham.com/engine-rebuild-part-3

Update time!

After I gave the paint some time to dry, it was time to give the internals a wash down. For this I was advised to use dish washing liquid with water, once that was done everything was given a wipe with engine oil to prevent any surface oxidisation.




The crank journals were given a good clean and main bearings installed.



Before the crank can be installed, the clearances need to be checked using Plastigauge.



Once you have the clearances checked and within recommended specifications, it's time to pull it apart, clean and than re-fit using assembly lube.




In the next episode, I hope to have updates on the ring gaps and final assembly =).

[mrpham]

Engine Rebuild Part 4 - http://omgpham.com/engine-rebuild-part-4

Over the last couple of days I've been able to install the pistons back into the block =)

Because this rebuild is a learning process for me, I choose to re-use the old pistons. Everything is pretty much standard.



Stock pistons being re-used as they all measured spot on.



The oil expansion and both rail rings installed. Very easy to do , just make sure to use a lot of oil to lubricate everything.



Upper and lower rings installed, again very easy to install. Just make sure you use a ring spreading tool. The rings need to be clocked into their correct orientation too. I'll try upload some images from the service manual a bit later on.




Once rings are on, oil everything up again. Than it's time for the ring compressor to do it's thing. This part was a little nerve racking as a first time engine builder, but I'm confident it went well.



AND DONE!!! For now...

[mrpham]

A little down time while I wait for gaskets etc to arrive to complete the engine rebuild.

Circuit Breakers - http://omgpham.com/circuit-breakers

I recently ordered some blade style circuit breakers from Narva, actually got the idea from a site I visit frequently:

https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html



Just installed them tonight, and I'll report back with how reliable they are. They're basically just like a regular fuses except you don't need to replace them. If a fuse blows, you just simply reset it after diagnosing the problem.

Old fuses that will be replaced.



New circuit breakers in, just waiting for the 5A one because it wasn't in stock.

[mrpham]

Engine Build Part 5 - http://omgpham.com/engine-build-part-5

Small updates are small.

Had a day off this Sunday so I was able to install the oil pump, rear cover and both front/rear seals. The oil pump was packed with Vaseline, apparently it's an old trick that gives the pump oil pressure on first crank.



If you plan on deleting the AC like I have, make sure you replace the long AC bracket bolt with a shorter M8x1.25 45mm bolt. It's one of the five bolts that hold the oil pump to the block! I bought mine from a local nut/bolt shop.



I've also started masking up my sump, as I'm looking into getting it powder coated. Getting quotes tomorrow

[gslender]

Why powder coat the sump?

[beavis]

Why powder coat the sump?

For style, I would assume.

[gslender]

Then why not just hi-temp paint?

[beavis]

Then why not just hi-temp paint?

Given the likelihood of chips and scratches, powder coating is going to be a lot more resilient.

[gslender]

True. But hi temp is easily repairable / repainted etc.