GSlender's Track Beeotch!

ndragun · Postby **ndragun** » Wed Nov 12, 2014 12:41 pm

Sorry if stupid question, but what about the radiator itself? What rad are you using?
If its not a sensor issue, might you just have a gunked up radiator that isn't flowing as well as it could?

ndragun · Postby **ndragun** » Wed Nov 12, 2014 12:49 pm

...disregard. From the early build pics I can see coolant reroute and what looks like a shiny thicker new rad.

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Wed Nov 12, 2014 12:50 pm

No undertray has a major impact on cooling in an MX5. Whilst I have a splitter on mine I have cut the OEM undertray to help get as much air towards the radiator.

However, people have proven that a smaller narrower radiator will do the same as a big thick one (I have a PWR water/oil combo). Most of the time it is air going around the radiator that impact cooling. Danny found that his cooling system on his WTAC car was too efficent and need to have the electric pump slowed down!

ndragun · Postby **ndragun** » Wed Nov 12, 2014 1:00 pm

We did something similar with the little light aircraft I flew - on winter days it took ages to get warmed up and off the ground. The thick little radiators in the cowl were too efficient and either had to have pipe restrictors put in, holes cut in the cowl, or aluminium plates put over the rad to change or stop the airflow.

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Fri Nov 14, 2014 8:47 pm

Pulled the coolant reroute adapter off and found both sensors and the heater barb was all leaking. So guess is that the system wasn't getting much pressure and boiling over. That would explain the behaviour... Water gets to 100 and then races away as the steam escapes and fails to cool.

I'll still install the tray and top cowl, but thinks the issue was largely my fault for failing to sufficiently seal everything.

G

sailaholic · Postby **sailaholic** » Fri Nov 14, 2014 9:14 pm

I think i also have an issue with the spacer leaking. I have a small coolant leak from the back of the head, but it seems to be only when the car is hot / after shut down. I haven't pulled the spacer yet to find out.

Certainly an easy fix for you

speed · Postby **speed** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 10:13 am

Just whilst we are speaking about the coolant re route, so the spacer is from automotive plus, where do I source the piping from? You mentioned a Chevy but I couldn't find any updates on it in your thread.
Maybe just make my own or is there something readily available? Want to be back on the road before Chrissie if possible. Thank you

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Postby **NitroDann** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 10:59 am

I sell a stainless hardpipe with clamps and silicone for 150+post as part of my full kit.

Snowmotion · Postby **Snowmotion** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 11:41 am

NitroDann wrote:I sell a stainless hardpipe with clamps and silicone for 150+post as part of my full kit.

That sounds like good value Dan...

The Chevy pipe is this one. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dayco-71989-Upper-Radiator-Hose-/290875506579?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43b987ff93

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 1:46 pm

Snowmotion wrote:
NitroDann wrote:I sell a stainless hardpipe with clamps and silicone for 150+post as part of my full kit.

The Chevy pipe is this one. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dayco-71989-Upper-Radiator-Hose-/290875506579?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43b987ff93

Correct!

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 2:01 pm

An alternative is something like this. However it could benefit from some heat shielding.

speed · Postby **speed** » Mon Dec 15, 2014 8:50 am

Thanks guys. Prefer hard pipe on cold side due to heat and space issues.

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Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Mon Dec 15, 2014 10:30 am

I'm trying to find a photo where somebody with ITB's did a cold side reroute with the pipe on brackets above the ITB's.

mx5gem · Postby **mx5gem** » Wed Jan 07, 2015 10:40 am

gslender wrote:I'm off to the track on Monday, so I'll let you know how well it goes after then. Hopefully it doesn't vibrate apart into heaps of bits.... !!! G

Did you make it to the track to test out the new airbox?
If so, how did it go?

madjak · Postby **madjak** » Wed Jan 07, 2015 3:38 pm

Chiming in a bit late on the cooling issue. I'm the one running the half width Honda radiator on a high HP built engine.

My setup was made from bits I had lying around... I don't run a thermostat and I have a 323 coolant neck on the back of the head with a home made (and vice bent) hot side reroute across the top of the head like Magpie's. The Honda radiator is small but it has decent thickness so cooling capacity is still reasonable if the airflow through it is there. I also run a medium sized oil cooler in front of the radiator. I really can't see how a full sized race radiator can overheat unless there is airflow through the radiator, or maybe it's an issue of speed of coolant through the engine (ie a restriction somewhere). It would be interesting to put a CTS at the exit of the radiator to measure the temp there.

Looking at the CTS logs, by lap 5 the temp is just creeping up to the 100 degree range and this was on a 32 degree day. This was also with no floor on the engine bay, and the drivers side of the front intake open to the engine bay which wouldn't be helping back pressure at all.

I think your options are:
remove thermostat (don't need one and it's a massive restriction)
Coolant reroute
High PSI radiator cap
Single lower radiator hose (I've just ordered a silicon NB one)
and the key one: Get more airflow through the radiator (remove shrouds, add vents in the right spot on the bonnet, seal in the bottom of the engine bay)