sailaholic NA8

[gslender]

Note that it will work if you just add a resistor to clamp the max load - so it wouldn't work at max output, but if the ECU supports 5amps then you might get close enough!?!?

[sailaholic]

Hey g, yeah that might work.

Magpie, a PDM would be awesome but hard to justify at this stage. Great idea though if you were doing a modern engine swap into something old where most of the wiring doesn't exist.

I'll re look at the ewp at some later. first will be to get the civic radiator installed and working and sort out a airbox/ brake bias / catch can.

What was the problem you had with the piper cross mark? Buying off the shelf might still be better way to go cost wise if there is one that fits.

[Magpie]

Fitment was the issue for me (booster in the way). I have had some PM's with G and he is going to see if he can get it to fit as his setup is very similar to mine. The Pipercross is still in Brisbane

Hopefully G will let us know how it goes. Anything is better than socks

[sailaholic]

Yeah booster is a PITA I'm guessing fabbed so it tapers down at the last trumpet will be the only way to go. Even the mazdaspeed airbox I have now had a divot for clearance.

In b4 Matt R. No I don't want to go booster less.

[sailaholic]

So in true itb airbox style, this morning was 1 step forward two steps backwards.

Forward: got the cam cover fitted. Was a little fiddly as the backing plate was bent on the lower right corner and I have some electrical connection secured to the lower left corner.

Anyway all done now! Not a great fan of the look but mr PoPo should be happy.

Backward / sideways 1

In my efforts to "massage the reroute out of the way far enough to get the airbox back in (was going to run a filter sock on the end) I managed to get the required clearance.

Unfortunately I achieved it right as this happened.



Only mildly annoyed as my chances of selling it to someone else were kinda low as it was a prototype one that didn't necessarily clear a stock cross over. But it was bloody expensive.

Maybe I'll be able to salvage it to work with the civic rad.

Backwards 2 - the cluster fk
Sorry didn't get photos if this one.

Tried putting the airbox back on. Getting everything lined up and actually doing the bolts up for the trumpets is a MAJOR pain in the ass.

With this in mind I had swapped to studs on the throttle bodies when I did everything else. This made it easier to assemble but kept things lined up more accurately. (I had had the throttle body Id machined slightly to match the trumpet id)

Unfortunately studs meant I swapped to normal nuts rather then flanged automotive nuts (13 mm af instead of 12mm af)

It turns out this means I can't use I normal rings spanner to finish tightening the nuts due to the ring fouling the trumpet wall and not enough space between the end of the stud and the trumpet lip once it's done up.

This wasn't an issue when not in an airbox but when the airbox is installed there isn't enough room to swing even a stumpy open ender.

So I pulled the first trumpet I had done back off, took the studs out and found the original bolts (they have a treadles section on the tip to help guide in and came up against this.



The Sam Q trumpets have a nice rolled lip where the mazdaspeed one were flatter

I got around this as the new trumpets are two piece with the formed trumpet having and interference fit to the base plates. So I removed the base plate, fitted the bolts, refitted the base plate and proceeded to fit said trumpet again.

This worked ok except the trumpets must be bigger then the previous ones and still could only use normal ring spanner. My stumpy ratchet one is too thick.

I can use a open ender on the top but underneath is a real drama.

Then came the thought maybe I just didn't get the studs wound all the way in when I put them in by fingers. This might let me use the studs to help line everything up and still be able to get the ring spanner off the end afterwards.

Not really why I pursued this as I still would have had trouble getting the bottom but done up in the final trumpet, maybe two.

Anyway managed to get the stud cross threaded without noticing until I came to put the second trumpet on and it didn't fit because the distance between the studs was wrong.

Much swearing, disassembled everything again. Had a look at the thread, definitely munted. Not enough space from the rear to run a tap in backwards.

Found I could get one if the bolts with the thread less end to start on the correct angle. Would that in and out. From there I would a tapper tap in and out.

Everything seems ok. I'd guess the first couple if threads are pretty much gone and it's holding / working on the threads further back.

So that's where it sits now. Not sure which way (bolt or stud) I'll go from here. Or just go back to filter socks and hope I don't have issues between now and when I've go the civic radiator sorted. (Probably a couple if months due to some work travel coming up).

Maybe the way to go will be bolts so the lead in easy and cut one if my cheap ring spanners in half to make a short one.

[Magpie]

Seems like we have both had an eventful weekend

[sailaholic]

Another update! Hasn't been this much progress in years.

Airbox is on!



Clearance at the back / side


I've still got to sort out getting the idle air valve (remote mounted) plumbed into the airbox. At the moment I was just running a filter on the end.



Also still need to sort out the valve cover vents. Still not completely sure what I'm going to do there.

Had a slight drama with the timing belt cover. There was a bit that stuck out on the inside to allow something to be bolted to the timing cover and this was hitting the mahura gears. So I had to remove and cut/chisel the face of it off to create clearance.

Also had some gauges (oil pressure and temp) turn of from Dave Moore. No real intention for them to remain long terms but will help with some testing of stock gauges and also getting a temperature of the coolant exiting the radiator.

I got lucky in that they are a small enough bezel to fit beside the chunk innovate afr gauge.

[sailaholic]

Some more updates,

Firstly, i've now done another dirt sprint event at IWMAC, took about5 seconds off my time again, which should mean i'm finally catching Plohl...but he set some faster times as well. Car felt very good and i've started to be able to move holding it off the limiter in 2nd into a couple of corners to getting and keeping it in third.

The car is nice and steerable even when past the limit which is nice, the combination for the MCA reds (9/6kg) with stock anti-roll bars seems to have come out quite nicely. That being said, there were still an epic spin or two. I seem to always have an OK first run, push too hard on second & third and end up with a spin or very messy laps then get the water truck smack bang in front for the fourth.

Seeing as the water truck generally costs you about 5-6 seconds on your lap time i decided just to go out and have some sideways fun to get a better feel and practice with the car past the limit. The run was great fun, and i almost held it together for the full two laps....Almost.....biggest off the track excursion yet. Luckily no harm done.

Continuing with previous day i then got my sh*t together and laid down a time a few seconds faster then anything else i had been able to do all day. Not sure if it's me settling down because it's the last run, the track rubbering up or the previous runs reminding me where i can and can't push. I suspect it's all of the above.

I had a chance to drive Plohls car for one round, car feels much faster around the track with better on throttle response / torque but probably gives up a little bit of top speed on the back straight. It's also much harder to drive through the corners. While my car is fairly linear as it progresses into a slide, plohls car tends to snap through the limit more and can lead to some tank slappers in the rush to correct.

[sailaholic]

Update 2!

Got my modplate today for the Sprint V and also the ITBs. While not required by the DOT "minor modification" guidelines i'm hoping that having a plate with the code on it will make any police interest go away that little bit easier.

reading another thread on the forum about the successful use of a civic radiator, i'm excited to get started on that project over christmas and hopefully solve the pesky water leak at the back of the head! Also hoping to get the harness set up over Christmas now the Sprint is fitted.

Pretty keen to hit both lakeside and QR in 2015 at least once each. It may be with the with the Reno Car Club of Queensland though as they hold the odd sprint day on the weekend which can be easier for me to get to.

Still a number of little tasks required on the car, like my dodgy FM reception, some better gauges, fluid changes in the diff and gearbox and maybe a caliper rebuild. Should get that done by 2016

[plohl]

You just need to be gentle with her dude ;)
I think the PS is the main thing making your car easier to drive... The inbuilt traction control also helps. Needs 6 speed or 4.3 diff...

Aren't we K-swapping it in 2016 though?

[gslender]

Got my modplate today for the Sprint V and also the ITBs.

Please do share where/whom as I'd like to do the same for my seat/roll bar and ITBs.... best keep those boys in blue happy

G

[sailaholic]

Plohl... Maybe, ps def helps I think my car dosent have to be caught as quickly though. If they ever run a another come and try we can do some serious back to back.

K swap will be happening 8 weeks after either of us win the lotto, or have a long long African relative die and leave use 10 mil that just needs our bank details to collect.

g, pm sent.


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[plohl]

I am not ready for a kswap yet... need to learn how to drive faster first...

...also need to start buying lotto tickets.

[plohl]

Awesome shot of my car!

[sailaholic]

Any good video before it fell off?


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