Operation TLC

ndragun · Postby **ndragun** » Mon Nov 10, 2014 4:44 pm

Magpie wrote:Will be interesting to see the torque curve when tuned. On that question when/who will be tuning the motor?

No idea who will be helping with tuning at this stage. Any recommendations?
As for when - well... whenever its ready!

Here's the plan with vacuum;

So - if the ports on the vac block are numbered from left to right in the picture we have;

1. Brake booster
2-5. TBs
6. ECU
7. Fuel reg
8. IAC

Any obvious flaws with this set up?

All Aeroflow fittings from RCE at Moss street. You could presumably get all similar stuff from pirtek etc.

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Mon Nov 10, 2014 5:08 pm

The brake booster line has a one way valve in it, to keep the vacuum in the booster, make sure that it is after the vacuum block.

I have some data on how much vacuum the Jenvey ITB's make, and whilst it is sufficent for the brake booster I'm not sure how it will go with the other items sucking as well. You may want to consider a vacuum cannister to store some vacuum.

My build does not use a IAC as there is no AC or PS. I still have the parts at home somewhere. Also my fuel regulator is not hooked up to the vacuum either.

My recomendation if you have a Haltech/Motec installed is GT Auto, where else... Make sure the person who tunes sells/recommends the ECU you are using.

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Mon Nov 10, 2014 5:45 pm

Magpie wrote:The brake booster line has a one way valve in it, to keep the vacuum in the booster, make sure that it is after the vacuum block.

I've got all that connected to mine and all is fine. I think there is a lot of confusion about ITBs and vacuum - the real vacuum stealer is aggressive cams - and as most install both aggressive cams and ITBs at the same time, they probably think it is the ITBs. I don't have aggressive cams and my car runs/behaves normally with all those pipes connected in almost the exact same way.

ndragun · Postby **ndragun** » Tue Nov 11, 2014 9:45 am

We'll see... there's always scope to tinker later. Considering I'm partial to removing the brake booster anyway, this should be fine.

Anyway, red control arms... because shiny;

sailaholic · Postby **sailaholic** » Tue Nov 11, 2014 10:44 am

What ecu? Nick ashwin (NA autosport at slacks creek) does good work on just about anything except megasquirt and is no bullshit but the dyno is a bit more pessimistic then some. Motec and haltec dealer I believe, tuned my adaptronic.

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ndragun · Postby **ndragun** » Tue Nov 11, 2014 10:58 am

sailaholic wrote:What ecu? Nick ashwin (NA autosport at slacks creek) does good work on just about anything except megasquirt

Well that rules them out then ;)
I'm using a megasquirt unit.

sailaholic · Postby **sailaholic** » Tue Nov 11, 2014 11:12 am

Haha, true, I suspect you've got a few phone calls ahead. Gslender might be able to point you somewhere.

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ndragun · Postby **ndragun** » Tue Nov 11, 2014 11:14 am

Just out of interest, why don't they do megasquirt? Just don't specialise in it, or don't like it?

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Tue Nov 11, 2014 11:38 am

ndragun are they new or have a new coat of paint?

ndragun · Postby **ndragun** » Tue Nov 11, 2014 11:54 am

Magpie wrote:ndragun are they new or have a new coat of paint?

Degreased, wire-brushed, high-pressure hosed and painted ;)

sailaholic · Postby **sailaholic** » Tue Nov 11, 2014 12:21 pm

Seriously dislike the ms. His experience is probably based of the ms1 which was on the crude side compared to a motec.

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Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Tue Nov 11, 2014 1:11 pm

Match the bushes (when they turn up).

Be aware that the LCA's (Lower Control Arms) are easily damaged and consider replacing the UCA's with NB ones as they are stronger. In addition if you are lowering your car consider using Mazda part N021-32-280A (tie rod ball joints) as they will removed SOME of the bump steer from lowering the car. I have been quoted $70 each and 4-6 weeks ex Japan.

ndragun · Postby **ndragun** » Tue Nov 11, 2014 1:27 pm

Gee stuff takes AGES to come from Japan. Meanwhile;

http://www.autolinkmx5.com/track-rod-en ... -143-p.asp
(Not sure if that's the exact part you're after Magpie, but you could probably ask them if it isn't)
10 quid.

I ordered a few obscure washers when the gearbox was serviced from these guys and it arrived in 4-5 days.
Give them a shot.

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Tue Nov 11, 2014 1:46 pm

Thanks, however all the information I can find on NON OEM ball joints is never kind, in the end people say that they should have gone OEM.

The same links sells the OEM (but not the same part number) for £65.79 which is MORE than I'm paying in Australia! I'm a little fussy on using certain parts in brakes/steering etc where quality is a major consideration in safety.

The part number I quoted is not the normal part, rather a OEM for the LE MX5 hich was lowered from factory hence the different tie rod ends.

corners · Postby **corners** » Tue Nov 11, 2014 3:00 pm

ndragun wrote:Gee stuff takes AGES to come from Japan. Meanwhile;

http://www.autolinkmx5.com/track-rod-en ... -143-p.asp
(Not sure if that's the exact part you're after Magpie, but you could probably ask them if it isn't)
10 quid.

I ordered a few obscure washers when the gearbox was serviced from these guys and it arrived in 4-5 days.
Give them a shot.

I've had stuff arrive in a couple of days using Jesse Streeter.
http://jessestreeter.com/