GSlender's Track Beeotch!

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Fri Oct 03, 2014 5:57 pm

rascal wrote:And to drag the thread back on track, how is that ITB airbox going?

I should have some cool info on the air box soon... but quickly, the plan is to cut the shapes out in a flat-pack style and assemble using screws etc - I know that sounds overly complex, but the benefit will be zero welding and adjustable panels for other shapes that have other clearance issues. Hope to see something in the next few weeks but if it looks good, I'll snap some pics and let you know how its going.

G

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Fri Oct 03, 2014 7:21 pm

I'm happy to offer the services of my metal bending tools, riv nuts etc if it helps.

toppertee · Postby **toppertee** » Fri Oct 03, 2014 9:41 pm

gslender wrote:So, where's a good place to buy harness and bolts to go with the new roll bar?

My shed, I forgot to tell you I've got a spare harness you can have (plus bolts etc), We will make, harness point under the seat. Plus a frame for your aftermarket race seat. (I've got enough steel lying around).

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Mon Oct 06, 2014 2:24 pm

Installed the tall boy roll bar. Excellent to install and way better than the AGI bolt in I had earlier - would recommend the MX5Plus bar over the AGI just on fitting and install process alone.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1412565859.112247.jpg

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Thu Oct 09, 2014 9:56 pm

Some CNC porn...!!!!

Nice yeah! Look mum, no welding!

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pezchops · Postby **pezchops** » Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:15 pm

looks great...must be some machinist did that!

1 off proto-type .
i offered to just profile some plates but got carried away with it.
thank you IKEA for the inspiration
if it works out i will be seeing a friend with a machine shop for pricing should anyone else be interested.
Due to circumstances its not possible for me to make more.

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:29 pm

pezchops wrote:looks great...must be some machinist did that!

You did good. Real good!

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:49 pm

Looks good! I like the way it is assembled.

The testing of an alternate solution is on hold whilst Automotive Plus is preparing for WTAC. No early snap shots!

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Fri Oct 10, 2014 11:52 am

Yeah, so impressed with how tight the joins are. I think a light smear of silicon to just close out the air gaps and it would be 100% air tight. I'm just so blown away with how well it looks. Would recommend anyone thinking of doing the same to consider it.

I'm going to test fit the backing plate this weekend, if it fits, then we've just got to finalize the angled and piece and then it is largely completed.

If others wish to get something similar, it would be simple to cut and ship - as it would be a flat-pack design. It might be a cheap MX5/Miata ITB air box that is made to fit with the RHD models.

G

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Fri Oct 10, 2014 12:36 pm

What does it weight?

pezchops · Postby **pezchops** » Fri Oct 10, 2014 1:16 pm

i will check the weight tonight ..its 3mm plate,any thinner may not work for the type of assemble.
it feels solid assembled but time will tell how vibration and heat affect it.
the small cube nuts inside are only M4 threads in aluminium so they cannot be over torqued.
the screws heads are c/sunk for maximun surface contact and less likely to come loose.
probably best to lock tight all of the screws except for the lid .
at the very least ,the set up would reduce welding to a few spot welds ,but the lid would need to be left as screw on.

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Fri Oct 10, 2014 2:18 pm

pezchops wrote:probably best to lock tight all of the screws except for the lid .
at the very least ,the set up would reduce welding to a few spot welds ,but the lid would need to be left as screw on.

my plan is to place a smear of silicon on all the mating surfaces of the box when I assemble it, and then locktite the threads. I think this would ensure no vibrations and/or air leaks are possible. The machining is so accurate, flat and fine that I can't see a need for welding.

For the lid, I'll put a smear of silicon down, but won't allow the lid to contact the box until it has dried - so it will act as a rubber seal and compress when screwed down. I'd then lightly locktite the lid screws and I'd expect all should be ok - doubt it would vibrate loose like that (pressure from silicon pushing up, locktite holding screws).