Tein rattles

[project.r.racing]

Hi.
Once you have locked the top lock ring to the ring under the spring try and turn the lock ring up with you spanner. If you can turn both your preload is not correct continue until it is very firm.Measure the spring length to ensure they are the same. Do both sides and measure from the top of the bottom lock ring to the underside of the top lock ring if the springs are the same in length and rate the measurement should be the same. Then you can set the vehicle height. Rattling is usually caused by not enough preload.

doesn't work with coilovers that require helper springs and change their shock stock with height adjustments. as the helper springs can be compressed using only the human hand.

[Charlie Brown]

Here's a photo of the Tein Flex in my NC.

You can clearly see the upper two rings used to adjust the preload. You need the C spanners to unlock the lower of the two rings. Trying to do it with just a hammer and punch will result in both rings turning.

The base locking ring is undone to allow the whole shock to rotate inside the lower casing, to raise or lower the height.

If you don’t have the original instructions to set the correct preload, someone here should be able to help or you can just do a search. It used to be on the Tein site but they took them down sometime ago.



Tip for NC owners. One turn of the shock body for height adjustment raises/lowers the car by approximately 1.5mm.
I use some white correction fluid and mark a recess in upper ring that is closest to me before I adjust the height.
Then I can rotate the shock and know the exact number or part number of turns I need to make to get the height I want for track day.
When I return it to road use I can quickly adjust it back exactly the right number of turns without mucking up the alignment

[bruce]

CB, that photo explains heaps. Bit of a dill, but I couldn't figure out what the bottom ring was for!
I will digest all this further.

[johnnyreble]

I had this rattle on mine, it was the centre nut at the top of the shock was not fully tight and the shock was unloading itself, ie: if the car was jacked up there was no tension on the shock it would rattle .. very simple fix if yours is the same just tighten the centre nut a little.

[bruce]

The nut on the top threaded shaft, just below the damper knob?

[bruce]

Seems tight. Should I jack that corner up first, to take the weight off?

[RS2000]

Here's a photo of the Tein Flex in my NC.

You can clearly see the upper two rings used to adjust the preload. You need the C spanners to unlock the lower of the two rings. Trying to do it with just a hammer and punch will result in both rings turning.

The base locking ring is undone to allow the whole shock to rotate inside the lower casing, to raise or lower the height.

I'm totally confused. MCA say that is completely wrong ??

http://www.mcasuspension.com/infosheets ... atures.pdf

http://www.mcasuspension.com/infosheets ... t_pics.pdf

http://www.mcasuspension.com/infosheets ... _words.pdf

Cheers

[project.r.racing]

Here's a photo of the Tein Flex in my NC.

You can clearly see the upper two rings used to adjust the preload. You need the C spanners to unlock the lower of the two rings. Trying to do it with just a hammer and punch will result in both rings turning.

The base locking ring is undone to allow the whole shock to rotate inside the lower casing, to raise or lower the height.

I'm totally confused. MCA say that is completely wrong ??

http://www.mcasuspension.com/infosheets ... atures.pdf

http://www.mcasuspension.com/infosheets ... t_pics.pdf

http://www.mcasuspension.com/infosheets ... _words.pdf

Cheers

no. it is in the wording. both upper and lower are used to adjust the height. if you use the upper ones to correctly set bump and dropp movement. that is in turn gonna be correctly set spring capture also.

then you use the lower ones to adjust how much the shock will travel (bump and droop) away from the chassis. which in turn is adjusting the height also.

[manga_blue]

Completely different story if you have coilovers with an adjustable bottom spring perch only, like Tein SuperStreet, Tein HA and a host of others. All you can do is use the perch to raise and lower the ride height and then check that the springs are still held at full droop. If they don't hold then you need to get longer springs or install helpers.

[Okibi]

Here's a photo, might help show what the original teins look like.

[project.r.racing]

manag blue posted a photo on the previous page.

my first coilovers back in 2004/05 were jic magics, same old skool design. luckily since then all others have be dual adjusting.

[bruce]

Got my spanners. Tightened up preload and got rid of the loud clunk! Now can hear all the other rattles coming from the bum of my car.
Gotta increase the ride height next.
As usual, everything was super tight and hard to undo.

[bruce]

Cannot move the bottom collar (trying to increase ride height). Soaked them in WD40 overnight, even tapped my spanners with a hammer. They will not budge. I am turning it the right way (by looking at the thread direction- collar turns inwards).
I did it with the wheels off as I can't get in there with them on.
Any advice?

[project.r.racing]

Cannot move the bottom collar (trying to increase ride height). Soaked them in WD40 overnight, even tapped my spanners with a hammer. They will not budge. I am turning it the right way (by looking at the thread direction- collar turns inwards).
I did it with the wheels off as I can't get in there with them on.
Any advice?

move top collar first.

[bruce]

I'm talking about the very bottom collar for ride height (not the top two for preload).
Or am I doing it wrong?