Cost effective ways to reduce under bonnet temps

[davekmoore]

Breathing in ...........
Beer.

[davekmoore]

Breathing out .............
Beer.

All good.

[sailaholic]

A netbook is a very small laptop.

Or A Microsoft surface PRO should run it. note only the pro version got a full windows that will run normal program's. The regular version will only run Microsoft "apps".

Other then that unless haltec develops an app for android or apple devices (quick google only turned up a "yeah what a great idea" - about 3 years ago



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[speed]

I also enjoyed Richard's post. Some of you guys don't realise how helpfull your knowledge is. Always get a kick out of reading about people helping each other out. Good work!


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[gslender]

I know I'm very biased towards Megasquirt as an ECU. I'm biased because I think the support and community you can get is undervalued and that paying a tuner to install and configure everything can be very, very expensive and time consuming (and as stated previously - isn't always needed).

I think because every Megasquirt user has had to get their support from the community (and didn't pay any tuner for the work) they are quick to also help and offer their time - as that is exactly how they got their knowledge - someone else took the time to help them, so they are willing to pass it on. That's why I'll always aim to help people with Megasquirt too.

So whilst I'd be the first to admit you can't go to the local tuner and ask him to install and tune your Megasquirt as easily as say Haltech - you are also not left in a position like Dave wondering what to do when that "paid support" fails and you now need a community to help you.

So Dave, make sure you pay it forward - update a build thread with your Haltech experiences. Post about what you learn and what you'd want to tell a future Dave about how to get on and use the tuning software etc. You'll be surprised how much you learn and know during this process. Good on you for having a go!

G

[Magpie]

gslender for you post.

I'll be the first to admit that I know nothing (and don't want to know anything) about how to tune a car. However, I have ensured that the people who do (Automotive Plus/GT Auto) know their stuff and have a great reputation. To date I have had no issues with my tune, rather I have had mechanical ones. The data logging on the car is used to keep track of the cars performance and can highlight issues with both the engine and drivers performance. This coupled with regular servicing (after every track day) ensures that the car is having regular checkups.

davekmoore for trying to understand tuning and highlighting the support that is not available for what is considered to be a high end ECU. It would appear that Haltech would prefer you use a tuner than be a DIY tuner.

as for G please keep us informed of your progress, breathing and beer drinking

[davekmoore]

davekmoore for trying to understand tuning and highlighting the support that is not available for what is considered to be a high end ECU.

I'll happily settle for being able to supply a decent tuner with data logs so he can sort the tune. Also hoping the logs will point me towards other improvements that may be needed and away from dead ends that won't actually improve matters. The reason for asking about portable devices is that I have a large laptop which I don't fancy flying around the car on the track, or on the road for that matter.

[sailaholic]

Use a long USB extension cord and turn off the default "sleep when lid shut". This lets you put the laptop semi securely behind the passenger seat.


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[speed]

I also want to add that i find gslender's posts very informative even though I struggle to keep up


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[Magpie]

Adding to sailaholic's post if you close the lid and put it on the passengers seat you can pass the seatbelt through the laptop and this will hold it in place (seen done at QR in a MX5). The hinge is towards the back of the seat, this way when you brake it does not slide forward.

[davekmoore]

It was a pleasant surprise today to find whatever tweaks the tuner did on a brief visit a week or so ago did indeed allow the car to idle when it came off the track on a warm day after being worked fairly hard. If only he could deal with the hesitations, bogs, and random idle speeds so simply and quickly.

I will find the right solution to the tune. Some further bonnet venting is also likely above the turbo and the air intake, with louvres facing backwards, which can surely only help reduce under bonnet temps as well as reducing under bonnet pressures, which must help air get through the radiator along with reducing front lift and drag?

[chrisearl88]

Dave,

I had some hesitations, surges and some wobbly idle on my turbo nb8b. Its got a chiptorque flashed factory ecu. I did the crank and cam angle sensors first. Turned out changing the O2 sensor has fixed all my woes. I assume you have a wideband o2 though?

Other thing to consider is the location of the temp sensor, I have retained the MAF. But since im not running an airbox i opted to put the intake temp sensor just before the throttle body. I've seen installs (both DIY and pro) where these just get put into the pod filter, but I'm not convinced this is a good solution. My logic is that you want the temp after the turbo has heated and the intecooler has cooled the air, why would you care about the air temp pre turbo... Lachlan from Chiptorque suggested the same and he did the SP tune for Mazda so he would know, he said its possible to tune around a pre turbo sensor location but its a bandaid solution at best.

Regards
Chris

[Nevyn72]

Dave,

I had some hesitations, surges and some wobbly idle on my turbo nb8b. Its got a chiptorque flashed factory ecu. I did the crank and cam angle sensors first. Turned out changing the O2 sensor has fixed all my woes. I assume you have a wideband o2 though?

Other thing to consider is the location of the temp sensor, I have retained the MAF. But since im not running an airbox i opted to put the intake temp sensor just before the throttle body. I've seen installs (both DIY and pro) where these just get put into the pod filter, but I'm not convinced this is a good solution. My logic is that you want the temp after the turbo has heated and the intecooler has cooled the air, why would you care about the air temp pre turbo... Lachlan from Chiptorque suggested the same and he did the SP tune for Mazda so he would know, he said its possible to tune around a pre turbo sensor location but its a bandaid solution at best.

Regards
Chris

Dave has the NB SE which comes with two intake air temperature sensors from the factory, one is mounted inside the airbox and the second is mounted in the intake elbow, just before the throttle body. Provided these have both been retained after the engine re-build and the Haltech is (at least) using the one at the throttle body he should be fine.

As for O2 sensors, I suspect the factory narrow band O2 isn't actually used (rarely is with aftermarket ECUs) and a wideband O2 (if fitted) would only be relevant for tuning purposes rather than general driving......

[chrisearl88]

Yeah i figured most of my points would be invalid with the Haltech. Just figured i should write it down so it comes up when somebody googles. Took me ages to figure out and turned out to be something so simple!

[Col99]

Dave I may have missed something here, but to me that top radiator hose looks like it could be being partially squashed by something on the bonnet. Have you expired that possibility. Bonnet open, all good, bonnet closed squashed hose. Perhaps your new bonnet scoop may be responsible. Just a thought.

Cheers

Col