Penrite oil for track/road car with forged bottom end

[davekmoore]

Is this the right spec:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PENRITE-10-T ... 2a1d743e0f

[Magpie]

This is what I use in mine HKS SUPER RACING 10w55. The oil is changed after every track day as well as sent away for analysis.

Applicable for stock specified #w50 grade.
Max. Oil Temp. 150℃
100％ SYNTHETIC
SM-CF equivalent

[MattR]

Jump on the Penrite web site and search for MX5.

The oil it recommends will work fine for you depending on what the car is used for. If it is a road car then yes it will work fine. If it is a race motor and only used on the track, then go with what the engine builder recommends for both oil and change frequency.

One thing to be wary of is that modern oils are generally very thin and may not be suitable for older engines like those used in the NA and NB 5's.

Penrite is a good oil that is reasonably cost effective. I use it in my MX and it sits for months at a time and then get thrashed on the track. I change the oil every 12 months or 5k and so far it has been fine. The motor is standard but high mileage and it doesn't use what I would call excessive oil, maybe only a couple of hundred ml over 5000km, if that. And it keeps good oil pressure on the track and keeps the motor quiet, no rattles from the top end on start up unless it has been sitting for a while.

On the other hand my old L series Datsun motor, race use only, I used Joe Gibbs dríven XP7. It had a high zinc content for a 40 year old motor, was changed every two race meetings and cost about 5 times what the Penrite did. That is what my engine builder wanted me to use so that is what i used, cheap insurance for a near $10k investment.

[Magpie]

As for MattR the oil used in my MX5 was what the engine builder recommended for both oil and change frequency. The HKS with its higher temperature tolerance reduces the risk of oxidation of the oil.

Have a look at here for a simple explanation http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto_oils/oil_viscosity_explained.htm

[zossy1]

I use high zinc 10 tenths as you have linked. It is a great racing oil, but there are plenty of other options that are great too.

[project.r.racing]

10 Tenths Premium is what you want. 0W50, 5W60 and 10W70 varients.

[manga_blue]

I've just started using this.


http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Full_S ... ngine_Oil/

No probs so far - temps remain cool, steady oil pressure, engine hasn't blown up although God knows I've tried. Cheaper at Repco than the Penrite you were looking at.

[lizard]

This is what I use in mine HKS SUPER RACING 10w55. The oil is changed after every track day as well as sent away for analysis.

Applicable for stock specified #w50 grade.
Max. Oil Temp. 150℃
100％ SYNTHETIC
SM-CF equivalent

Very interested in what the analysis reports finds after one track day ?

[davekmoore]

Me too. How much is this analysing? I guess it would give you early warning of something, but what? Does it ever say "Well done for changing your oil so regularly but the analysis says it would do X more track days."?

I went with the one in the original post.

[Magpie]

Oil sampling builds up a history. Each time a sample is done it is compared to the stuff that went in. You need to always keep a sample of what went in. After a while trends can be seen and the frequency of oil changes adjusted.

The oil sample will show metal, fuel, water, contamination, oxidisation, wear etc. it is worth every cent and protects the investment I have made (which I will never recover).

http://www.oilcheck.com.au/technical/diesel-and-petrol-engine-oils.html

http://www.oilcheck.com.au/technical-information/how-to-take-an-oil-sample-extended-version.html

[Mr Morlock]

Yes Magpie might be right but in the end its all going to be a very small and probably insufficient sample range to prove anything. Does it mean that the type of oil is changed when a variation is found and do the ambient conditions etc have a bearing on the oil variations. In our poor old road cars we change the oil and dispose of it thoughtfully.

[ED_MX5]

One thing to be wary of is that modern oils are generally very thin and may not be suitable for older engines like those used in the NA and NB 5's.

Not entirely true, the 'thickness' of the oil has no correlation to if it is a new style of oil or old style.
The oil burning or leaking is due to other factors in the production of the oil. Depending on what base group it is blended with.

[Magpie]

Small changes yes, but it allows prompt action to be taken EARLY. Should everybody do it no, is it cost effective yes, to me. I could keep the oil from my changes and donate it to a worthy cause' anybody want some engine oil only been used for a max of 300km?

[zossy1]

Dedicated race engines should run a high zinc race oil. So says Emilio Cervantes and he should know!

Lucas make a good one, but the Penrite is also good and much cheaper.

[MattR]

One thing to be wary of is that modern oils are generally very thin and may not be suitable for older engines like those used in the NA and NB 5's.

Not entirely true, the 'thickness' of the oil has no correlation to if it is a new style of oil or old style.
The oil burning or leaking is due to other factors in the production of the oil. Depending on what base group it is blended with.

What I meant was that most oils made today for modern designed motors are 0-15W or 5-15W, whereas the older designed engines require a thicker oil in terms of weight, a 10-50W or even up to 20-60W or for some a straight 50W or 60W oil depending on application.

It's pretty easy to walk into a shop and just grab a nice shiny package of synthetic oil and find it is totally wrong for your motor after throwing it in by not paying attention to the weight of the oil on the package.

I'm sure plenty of people with older cars have thrown the wrong oil in them and wondered why it didn't do as promised in the marketing.