Cost effective ways to reduce under bonnet temps

[93_Clubman]

Recommendations for a Haltech and MX5 tuner nearest to Mornington Vic who properly understands both?

Dan & Daz @ Road Track Rally, 10 Fiveways Blvd, Keysborough, 9798 5944, <http://www.roadtrackrally.com.au/>

[davekmoore]

...also, is the idle problems when running on e85 or regardless when running normal PULP etc... ???

Worse on 98.

[rascal]

Recommendations for a Haltech and MX5 tuner nearest to Mornington Vic who properly understands both?

Dan & Daz @ Road Track Rally, 10 Fiveways Blvd, Keysborough, 9798 5944, <http://www.roadtrackrally.com.au/>

Dan doesn't work there anymore.
Not sure where he's gone to...

[davekmoore]

Dave also might depend on if he's talking at speed or in traffic. I would think a bonnet lift WOULD work in traffic as it give an escape for the hot air as there is no high pressure zone at the windscreen.

Either way I think you made the right decision.


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Yup, I can see how it would work in traffic (only). Even better if I removed thebonnet.

[davekmoore]

..... until it rains, or I get Copped.

[speed]

Bruce I have an attractive GV bonnet that has a vent just behind the radiator. However I run the risk of a defect in QLD as it is made of fibreglass.

Here is my GV Bonnet




Not mine but another GV NA




GV NB Bonnet

Does the white car have vents under the headlights? Good idea if you can do it and still retain the pop-ups. I like your bonnet too


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[davekmoore]

In terms of getting results quickly and cost effectively it's looking like:

1. Better tune(r). Recommendations needed please as it's probably a really bad idea if I have a go myself.
2. Box-in the filter maybe with air feed from fog light (shared with n/s brake vent - might that upset the brake balance?). But will that increase under bonnet pressure?
3. Heat shield or wrap for turbo and manifold. Anyone already done it so I don't have to reinvent the wheel?
4. More bonnet vents*.
5. Move the AIT sensor?
6. ??

There's already a Hondata intake gasket in there by the way.

* Yes, the hood extractor is fugly but it does seem to help the radiator do its job. I'm happy to remove it in favour of something that works better. Also happy to add vents or louvres above hot and (not) cold sides. If they're rearward facing louvres surely they'd extract air thus reducing both pressure and heat? Flyin' Miata say so, and I'm pretty happy to take their word for it: https://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?de ... r=29-40000.

[Magpie]

Point 4 -
http://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep-75/serious-cooling-ducts-hood-vents-think-gt40-now-pics-57909/page3/#post730141
http://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep-75/radiator-hood-vent-76867/#post1088577

[davekmoore]

Thanks! In my case and for my use the radiator hood vent is done and dusted and it works as the coolant temps are now all good. No need for anything further.

Constructive feedback on items 1-6 regarding under bonnet and air intake temps appreciated.

[gslender]

Dave, would seem counter productive to spend time money trying to reduce engine temps when the car is not moving. Get the idle fixed by getting a tuner who knows how to adjust the ECU to cope.

Have you contacted Haltech?

[Magpie]

Point 3 - as suggested by others, wraps etc
http://www.pmdraceproducts.com/accessoriesheatshieldingproducts/
http://www.techflex.com.au/techflex-braided-sleeving-products/gold-reflective-heat-foil Not good for a turbo but used on other areas etc to reflect heat.

Again you more than likely should be looking at the tune. However, tuning I know nothing about hence no advice to give

All the data logging I have done shows that the only way to reduce heat soak is to keep the car moving and air flowing through the engine bay, I know it sounds simple but that's the facts. Even leaving the car running in the pits, bonnet up and heater on full does not remove the heat soak as well as doing a cool down lap.

Splitting the air between the brakes and a filter box should not create any issues. You could measure the pressure drop at the mouth of the intake and at the brake ducts on each side to confirm. If worried put a T in and duct air off both sides for your air box. Again if you go an airbox make sure you wrap or coat it in something that reflects the heat to try and reduce the heat soak.

[davekmoore]

Dave, would seem counter productive to spend time money trying to reduce engine temps when the car is not moving. Get the idle fixed by getting a tuner who knows how to adjust the ECU to cope.
Have you contacted Haltech?

Have now posted on Haltech forum.

Still need recommendations for Haltech tuners please.

Engine temps are ok thanks.

It'll be great if the tune can be made to properly cope with 70 degree under bonnet temps so the car will idle with those temps. However, as far as I can tell from the interweb, higher intake temps reduce power. Research also shows this would be especially true when the turbo is under-sized like my OEM IHI. That's why it seems also worth getting the under-bonnet hence also intake temps down.

[93_Clubman]

Recommendations for a Haltech and MX5 tuner nearest to Mornington Vic who properly understands both?

Dan & Daz @ Road Track Rally, 10 Fiveways Blvd, Keysborough, 9798 5944, <http://www.roadtrackrally.com.au/>

Dan doesn't work there anymore.
Not sure where he's gone to...

PM perhaps:
memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=1623

[sailaholic]

Dave high intake temps do hurt power but how much power do you need stuck in traffic?


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[gslender]

It'll be great if the tune can be made to properly cope with 70 degree under bonnet temps so the car will idle with those temps. However, as far as I can tell from the interweb, higher intake temps reduce power. Research also shows this would be especially true when the turbo is under-sized like my OEM IHI. That's why it seems also worth getting the under-bonnet hence also intake temps down.

You are right. Air temps should be low as possible when the car is moving when you want max power.

So you have a log of air temps when the car is moving that says air temps are too high? Your first post says the issue is only when the car is idling? You don't need nor can you easily get low air temps when sitting still in traffic.

Continue spending money and time on cooling when standing still if you wish, but that just isn't the problem - the tune is, and should cope fine with hot air when idling. Just like it should be fine with sub zero cold air too!

G