Tein rattles

[manga_blue]

I can't believe the amount of money paid for Teins and you'd get better longetivity and I think ride-quality from the stock combo!

Actually I've got about 110,000kms out of my old HAs now and they still come out fine on the test bench. Never been rebuilt and I think the ride is pretty good, on 5/4, 7/5 and even 10/7 spring rates. I'd like to see how long all the Taiwanese ones last.

[Okibi]

My flex must be over 10 years old now, thought i'd killed them a few weeks back but they're still going strong.

[roket52]

I believe my MCA Blues have the exact same issue. I ve been trying to find out what the heck the noise is for ages now. Glad I read this post

[93_Clubman]

Is $55 from fleabay a good price for a pair of Tein spanners?

Reckon I've seen them at a better price, but it might not have been for a pair. Also, generic brand ones of the right size will work & are cheaper.

[bruce]

Ta. I've ordered a pair and will fiddle with teins next week.
I reckon loosen them off and slide clear tubing over the ends of the springs, I guess both ends.

[Charlie Brown]

Ta. I've ordered a pair and will fiddle with teins next week.
I reckon loosen them off and slide clear tubing over the ends of the springs, I guess both ends.

I'm at a loss to understand why the fitting of rubber tubing to the spring would stop rattles.

If you have the correct length spring with the correct preload, the spring never leaves the spring seat on full droop.

[bruce]

I believe there's a bit of wear involved, which allows the spring to move when unloaded. We're talking about a tiny amount of wear.

[sailaholic]

But the preload should keep the spring firmly held against the seats unless your getting air rally car style.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[manga_blue]

Earlier Teins don't have preload adjustment, only a fixed top perch with an adjustable bottom perch that has the weight of the car sitting on it. I use helper springs to stop them from coming free at full stretch.

Like this (obviously not my car):

[ralt]

Hi.
You do not need "c" spanners. Just put a long screwdriver into one of the indentations and hit it with a hammer is the best way to undo and tighten and is a lot easier than those spanners.

[project.r.racing]

Never had this problem with bottom of the range Taiwanese made coilovers for past 10+ years.

I am also at a loss to the rattling of fully load encompassed springs.

[bruce]

I'd rather use c spanners than mark up my twins.
Can someone point out what else needs tightening in the rear? Don't want to accidentally bugger the alignment.

[taminga16]

I'd rather use c spanners than mark up my twins.
Can someone point out what else needs tightening in the rear? Don't want to accidentally bugger the alignment.

Bruce,
A good rule of thumb is to tighten everything that you have undone under the weight of the vehicle.
Greg.
P.S. Write down every adjustment and use the same piece of road for testing, it is too easy to get lost in what you have done.
Greg.

[ralt]

Hi.
Once you have locked the top lock ring to the ring under the spring try and turn the lock ring up with you spanner. If you can turn both your preload is not correct continue until it is very firm.Measure the spring length to ensure they are the same. Do both sides and measure from the top of the bottom lock ring to the underside of the top lock ring if the springs are the same in length and rate the measurement should be the same. Then you can set the vehicle height. Rattling is usually caused by not enough preload.

[bruce]

Ralt, you might have nailed it. Let me digest your instructions....