Naturally Aspirated Mod's - Motors Coming out

[booki89]

Hey all,

My 94 NA Mx5 has its front oil seal leaking. I think the easiest way to fix this would be to pull the motor.

This is where it gets interesting - as I am a "While I was in there.." kind of person!

While the motor is out, I am contemplating doing a few mods to the motor. For increased reliability and of course. Power.

I don't have loads of disposable income, but what would be some good things to do while the motor is out while on a small budget of say 2k? All work would be done by myself unless its more cost effective to get somebody else to do it (ie acid dipping the head or something along those lines)

The car is my daily and I am keen to get to the track more, have only been once in my 5 and loved it.

Car is stock besides coilovers, 14 degree timing mod, new standard exedy clutch and NB wheels with KU36's.

Plan so far is too;

Maintenance Items
Replaced leaking Front seal
Replace Water pump, timing belt
- Anything else I am missing?

Power Mods
Possibly thinking a cam?
Worth changing pistons/rings? Better compression?


Only reason I am steering clear of forced induction, is the legalities in VIC. Just becomes a joke keeping it legal. More so if I have a accident, I would believe my insurance company can deny the claim because I have illegal modifications? Not sure how it would work with N/A mods, but I don't think it would be a issue?

[smy0003]

Fair enough about keeping it NA. The laws are a joke for us vic guys and girls.

I'd be spending that money on an intake/exhaust or a slippery diff.

You'll get more bang for your buck modding things other than the engine for that kind of money.

Keen to hear everyone else's opinion though.

Do a search, there have been quite a few similar threads before.

[Regie]

no need to pull the motor for timing belt/seals replacement.

Once you remove the radiator there is plenty of room to get to all the things you need.

I agree with above, concentrate on exhaust/intake mods first. There will be no benefit from a different set of cams if the in/ex are stock

Also a nice torsen rear end will have you smiling

[speed]

Depends how much power you want. Intake and exhaust should give round 80kw atw. Cams can cost 800 to 1500 and you may need an ecu and tune on top of that. 2k quickly disappears when staying NA.
I've toyed with the idea of increasing compression but don't expect to much kw from it. Still not sure what in doing...



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[slug_dub]

With 2k I'd go for an intake and a get a full exhaust, extractors too, before going for an LSD.

[MLR]

Timing belt, water pump and seals, radiator flush and refill, engine flush, filter and refill, gear box oil, diff oil, brake fluid flush, pads?, copper spark plugs.

Then cheap intake upgrade after some research and full exhaust, or from the standard headers back.

That should make at least 2k go away if your doing most of the work yourself.

Then some good coils and swaybars and most importantly the best tyres you can get and a good alignment.

Trying to get power from a N/A is pissing away money for minimal gains and the loss of street ability.

Unless you have money to burn, then go for it, or better still, give me the money so I can waste it on N/A power.

[booki89]

Forgot to mention, I replaced my stock airbox with a pod filter.
The general consensus with pods is that they suck in hot air and can reduce power. It doesn't feel that way on my butt dyno! I felt a noticeable improvement in responsiveness with the pod.

I had toyed up the idea of a full exhaust system.

I am contemplating buying a used set of headers to save some cash, is this a good idea?

There are some cheap bolt on exhausts on eBay/Amazon, but most look like cannon's which I think would look terrible on a MX5...although yet to see one live.

I am still yet to add a roll bar, diff, intake/exhaust - but purely while the motor is out. I figured it might be a good time to do a few things. Then again if it can all be done with the motor in the car, I might just leave it in.


P.S - I have done all other maintenance when I purchased the car this year, Gearbox/diff oils, engine oil, new plugs/leads, brake fluid, EBC Yellowstuff Pads, KU36 (I presume these are decent tyres).

[booki89]

Depends how much power you want. Intake and exhaust should give round 80kw atw. Cams can cost 800 to 1500 and you may need an ecu and tune on top of that. 2k quickly disappears when staying NA.
I've toyed with the idea of increasing compression but don't expect to much kw from it. Still not sure what in doing...



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If 80kw atw is a rough guide with a intake/exhaust. What is bone stock power? Just curious on how much a exhaust/intake will gain.

Also do not want to have a intake that requires me to cut into the firewall...

[speed]

Drive for a while on a warm day and see how good the pod is. Mine gets hot and I do have a hole into firewall.
Intake/exhaust may give 5kw. Check my thread "how many rwkw do you have with what mods".
At least you have a 1.8
The 1.6 puts out about 65kw atw.think the 1.8 is round 75kw but don't quite me


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[johnnyreble]

Just a word of caution, Once you've changed the crank seal make sure you use a brand new Pulley bolt .. it is cruicial on the NAs .. the old bolt musn't be reused ...

[sailaholic]

Just a word of caution, Once you've changed the crank seal make sure you use a brand new Pulley bolt .. it is cruicial on the NAs .. the old bolt musn't be reused ...

Hmmm I've never heard that one hopefully someone else can confirm.

[tbro]

Just a word of caution, Once you've changed the crank seal make sure you use a brand new Pulley bolt .. it is cruicial on the NAs .. the old bolt musn't be reused ...

ALWAYS replace bolt and key, never reuse the old ones. Unless of course you want a rooted crank or your as rough as guts

Do your oil leaks water pump seals and belt, service it , get a good wheel alignment, then go and have some fun on the track. If your not convinced what a stock car can do look for Little Reddy, Bryan has shamed a lot of people in that stock car.

I'm in the middle of an engine rebuild after cooking my motor in the QR300, your $2k won't even buy my parts for the bottom end, this is one time I agree 100% with Nitro, if you want power from these gutless things TURBO, but as you can't turbo, and you don't have a lot of money, improve the one thing that doesn't cost a lot of money to improve,"YOU"
go out to the track and get experience and in 3 years time with 50 odd track days behind you then have another think about what to improve on your car then.

These are a fun car but if you really want to go quick cheaply, practice and fit a torsion.BTW, the stock extractors arn't a bad piece of kit.

Terry

[booki89]

Have already gotten a good wheel alignment, -3 degree camber from memory. Improved the car quite a bit with the KU36 205 tyres.

Just get the bolt and key from Mazda?

Is it worth while taking the motor out to do these tasks?
I already had plans to put in a roll bar, a decent seat and possibly a diff. But now the diff has become higher priority. Is it as simple as just pulling the old one out and putting the new one in?

[SuperMazdaKart]

I get my timing belt parts (including crank bolt/key) from mx5parts.co.uk , fast postage & excellent prices plus can have the option of genuine OEM or guality aftermarket. May as well do the camshaft oil seals/valve cover gasket/camshaft angle sensor seal too. The engine can stay in for a timing belt service.

Since yours is a NA8, all you need to change the diff is replace just the diff centre. You won't need to change driveshafts, diff housings etc.

[tbro]

No need to remove motor to do timing belt/waterpump

Order from local stealer or mx5parts in UK for your bolt and key

Doing the diff centre is doable but can get messy. You'll need a second set of hands to lift it in as these things get heavy by the second or third attempt
to lift it in, ask how I know that

Overall, its all doable, just don't be afraid to ask for help if your not sure.

Terry