ITB and intake temps

[Magpie]

Here is the Pipercross it has its own foam air filter.

[project.r.racing]

project.r.racing I agree that many people have done the same test and proven the same thing, however few people make available on these sort of forums their results/proof.

With ITB's that get air from the engine bay it is more of an issue. Further, at least for us RHD cars we are restricted in trumpet and filter size unless the brake package is redesigned to be boosterless. In addition, there are different ways that people have installed the air intake for ITB's, sailaholics is different to mine (pipercross dome filter) and whilst gslender is using Jenveys he has chosen to use sockfilters.

Again with the setups of sailaholic, gslender and myself we all have different radiators so again, hence if other people are interested in installing ITB's it is hoped (at least by me) that this thread will assist in making informed decisions.

The purpose of this thread is to exchange ideas and solutions to a problem,

Do what everyone else in the past has done and used and airbox and ducted it to outside the engine bay.

[Magpie]

project.r.racing already working on that. However for RHD cars there are fitment issues at least for NA6/8's and this, among other things makes the length of the trumpets a compromise. The best length, at least for my engine is 100mm however only 40mm can be used. Practical solutions with photos would be appreciated!

Collected a wide range of data today and of the 32,668 data points collected, at least for me there is no correlation between coolant temp and air temp. I looked at the percent change for both the water and air temp and they were moving independently. The data was collected in the morning and afternoon, car idling with the bonnet up and closed, some hard acceleration some normal.

[sailaholic]

I've got turn signal intakes yes but I haven't looked at the data logs.

[Magpie]

Dupain yes it is basic fluid dynamics.

With the turn signal intakes there is a risk of air being sucked out due to the high pressure zone in front of the radiator, The air will find the path of least resistance and go out the duct rather than in. It maybe a solution to have tubing placed on the turn signal intake duct and direct it to where it is needed, but again this would be a pain to run due to pop up headlights etc. Then you run into the other issue of equalising the pressure inside the engine bay and hence no air will flow through. The airflow through a radiator doesn’t depend on the pressure in front of the core; it depends on the pressure difference across the core, hence the engine bay needs to have a lower pressure.

I have a set of turn signal indicators at home, however have not installed them yet. My focus is going to be on radiator ducting and then getting the air out of the engine bay and hence increasing the pressure differential across the radiator as well as getting as colder air as possible to the ITB's. By increasing the efficencey of getting the air out of the engine bay more air will be drawn in for the ITB's. However this needs to be done by reducing drag!

Raising the bonnet is a similar issue. For the NA6/8's there is a reason why it is suggested to cut a hole in the firewall near the windscreen because it is a great place for CAI, simply it is a high pressure zone. By lifting the bonnet you will be sucking air back into the engine bay and reducing the efficencey of the air being drawn through the radiator. Knowing the differential pressures above and below the bonnet will make this easier to decide on what to do, basic fluid dynamics.

[Nevyn72]

Just leave it. ITBs look great and you are not going to get much more kws by enclosing it and running a CAI.

Have you seen the Autoexe intakes where they draw the air from the firewall, built something like that so the mouth of the intake is near the ITBs.

Better yet, you could have some sort of fan type arrangement that would blow air onto the ITBs via a tube from a cold air source location.
This 'fan' could be powered by some sort of crank dríven belt or perhaps even the exhaust air pressure!

[sailaholic]

Just leave it. ITBs look great and you are not going to get much more kws by enclosing it and running a CAI.

Disagree unless you have some testing to prove otherwise. Sure you might only get 3-5 hp from the air temp drop but combined with the better flow from removing filter socks the improvement should be significant.

If you set the airbox up to make the best use of ram air effect there is a bit more to be had again.

[Magpie]

sailaholic you replied before I did

The other issue is drawing air from the hot side firewall and then moving it to the cold side, ala Mania style CAI will allow heat soak unless you either ceramic coat the duct or use gold reflective wrap. The LHD MX5's are much easier because of where the booster etc is located (hot side). There is not that much on the internet about ITB's on RHD MX5's.

Ram effect provided it goes straight into an air box could work, but a ram box increases drag

Anyway I still have the hole in my firewall from when I had a Mania CAI installed, time for some testing to see if air is coming in the hole and decreasing the flow through the radiator or if air is comming out. It should be as simple as test, then tape over the hole and test again.

[sailaholic]

Yup, if the air pressure blows the tape off you know it's coming in. Could also use streamers taped over the hole and a go pro. Just because.

[Magpie]

Both cars are in Brisbane. CFD is not cheap hence doing the aero without CFD. However, there is a lot of reading that can give you a good idea of what will and won't work.

Most of wish the we had the budget to commission Andrew to do an aero package like on Danny's.

Plus this is fun

[Magpie]

There is about 6 MX5's in QLD with ITB's.

[gslender]

There is about 6 MX5's in QLD with ITB's.

ITBs are the new black!


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[Magpie]

Need to get them all in the one place for a photo

[gslender]

Just pulled the trigger on one of these bad boys... http://www.jenvey.co.uk/home/accessories/airhorns-filters-and-boxes/jenvey-dynamics/airbox-75mm-inlet-right-top-abt2rt

The plan is to route cool air from the front of the radiator, over the top, and create a duct/shield that encloses the bonnet (probably using rubber window D seals) to give the mouth of the air box something to suck on (apparently it only likes cool / fresh air!)

[sailaholic]

I was looking at that option if the civic radiator didn't work. Plohl already had the rad so I decided to go that way first.

Do you think there will be enough distance between the bonnet and the top of the radiator for a decent flow.

Thought about where the filter will go?