NA6 Rough Startup idle

[speed]

Chuck the sensor in and see what happens. How many kms are you getting per tank? If coolant sensor is stuffed you may also have poor fuel consumption. Mine did when the sensor needed replacing


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[Tumbles]

Chuck the sensor in and see what happens. How many kms are you getting per tank? If coolant sensor is stuffed you may also have poor fuel consumption. Mine did when the sensor needed replacing

I deliver pizza in stop and go city traffic. 4.8L/55km. So just above 9L/100km or so? Not sure if that's bad for constant stop start in city life. If it is perhaps I should get a new oxygen sensor as well. Sigh.

I'll put it in later today most likely, depending on how long fuel reg/relay testing take and more importantly how lazy I am.

Anything else that I should check over?

Check Fuel Inj relay in the main fuse/relay box in the engine bay.

Also check for the 'blackwire' issue the inside the top of the fuel tank gauge/pump assembly: viewtopic.php?f=55&t=46425

I'll google on how to check the fuse.

With the "Blackwire" issue, since I notice you were the OP of that thread, was your car starting and running fine some days but not others?

[93_Clubman]

I'll google on how to check the fuse.

See manga_blue's post & Caffeine's which immediately follows it for an emergency fix:
viewtopic.php?f=29&t=38526&p=535770#p535770
viewtopic.php?f=29&t=49188&p=617511#p617511
viewtopic.php?f=29&t=38526&p=535496#p535496
Alternatively you may find you can prise the NB8 EGI relay (B5B4) apart, ike the NA Fuel Inj relay (B6S8), to clean the points inside to assist in an emergency:

1. Pry the cover off the top of the relay and see if the points are pitted or out of alignment. You can clean the points like you used to on an old dizzy, bend them to adjust gap and straighten them. That can give the relay another few months of life while you find a cheaper new one.
2. Mazda 323s and Astinas of around the same vintage used the same relay. Check the wreckers.

With the "Blackwire" issue, since I notice you were the OP of that thread, was your car starting and running fine some days but not others?

Yeah, intermittent over a number of months until one day it wouldn't start.

[Tumbles]

I'll google on how to check the fuse.

See manga_blue's post & Caffeine's which immediately follows it for an emergency fix:
viewtopic.php?f=29&t=38526&p=535770#p535770
viewtopic.php?f=29&t=49188&p=617511#p617511
viewtopic.php?f=29&t=38526&p=535496#p535496
Alternatively you may find you can prise the NB8 EGI relay (B5B4) apart, ike the NA Fuel Inj relay (B6S8), to clean the points inside to assist in an emergency:

1. Pry the cover off the top of the relay and see if the points are pitted or out of alignment. You can clean the points like you used to on an old dizzy, bend them to adjust gap and straighten them. That can give the relay another few months of life while you find a cheaper new one.
2. Mazda 323s and Astinas of around the same vintage used the same relay. Check the wreckers.

With the "Blackwire" issue, since I notice you were the OP of that thread, was your car starting and running fine some days but not others?

Yeah, intermittent over a number of months until one day it wouldn't start.

I'll open up the tank and have a look.

Also, I think that relay is the one I'm already checking under my steering wheel/footwell area. I drive an NA6.

[93_Clubman]

Also, I think that relay is the one I'm already checking under my steering wheel/footwell area. I drive an NA6.

Relay under dside dash is the fuel pump relay - there's also the fuel inj relay in the engine bay fuse/relay box.

[Tumbles]

Also, I think that relay is the one I'm already checking under my steering wheel/footwell area. I drive an NA6.

Relay under dside dash is the fuel pump relay - there's also the fuel inj relay in the engine bay fuse/relay box.

Makes more sense now.

I think I found the issue and it wasn't the relays/sensors/fuel related at all. Hopefully this is it. Next post will detail stuff tomorrow.

[speed]

Also, I think that relay is the one I'm already checking under my steering wheel/footwell area. I drive an NA6.

Relay under dside dash is the fuel pump relay - there's also the fuel inj relay in the engine bay fuse/relay box.

Makes more sense now.

I think I found the issue and it wasn't the relays/sensors/fuel related at all. Hopefully this is it. Next post will detail stuff tomorrow.

You have my attention. What was it then?


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[Tumbles]

I've found two immobilisers connected in series.

First immobilizer is responsible for central locking, fuel delivery and ignition. Fuel delivery and ignition wires have been cut and resoldered elsewhere. My work on Friday night has removed this immobilizer since all it was good for was central locking. I no longer have central locking. Slightly a pain.

Second immobilizer is responsible for fuel delivery and ignition as well, since the cut wires from the first one connect into this one. Take out spark plug and try cranking, no spark, no smell of fuel.

Works intermittently because Western Sydney(tm) installs are the bane of all intelligent lifeforms on this planet.

Going to see mechanic who does electrical work tomorrow hopefully, if it starts when I test it after the World Cup game at 5am.

FML.

[gslender]

Are you saying it has been spliced into the ECU loom? Someone took the trouble to figure out which of the 60+ wires bundled together were the spark/ injector wires? Or did they run into the engine bay and cut into the harness wires near the injectors / coils? Either way, that's incredibly stupid and way too much effort - never, ever have I seen an alarm be installed like that!

Still surprised to see it half running or roughly run... So not as 100% convinced and will wait to hear what happens.


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[Tumbles]

Are you saying it has been spliced into the ECU loom? Someone took the trouble to figure out which of the 60+ wires bundled together were the spark/ injector wires? Or did they run into the engine bay and cut into the harness wires near the injectors / coils? Either way, that's incredibly stupid and way too much effort - never, ever have I seen an alarm be installed like that!

Still surprised to see it half running or roughly run... So not as 100% convinced and will wait to hear what happens.


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It's not into the ECU loom as far as I know. Just a real hatchet job under the steering wheel and all that general area. I think the immobiliser is out though.

I'm not getting voltage to the fuel pump. Tested Blue/Red wire with multimeter and one of the black wires as a ground. Didn't pull out spark plug and lead, but I don't think that's working either.

Used wire ion diagnostics box in engine bay to connect Ground and Fuel Pump to bypass Fuel Main Relay and that did diddly squat.

Any ideas where I go from here?

[Tumbles]

Oh, almost forgot: Stuck the multimeter to the relay plug under the dash and it's only getting ~9V.

Is that normal?

[gslender]

Ok... If alarms were only messing with the ignition wires than big chance they only cut 12v from ignition and starting loom. Your fuel and spark wasn't messed with. That makes more sense.

If it was cutting ignition then you'd have no supply at all coils and injectors, and it wouldn't start at all. Running rough isn't something it can change or effect, but it could and probably has delayed startup by delaying the ignition from coming on when cranking.

Hard to guess why the fuel pump isn't working - how are you testing it given you may still don't have ignition ?

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[gslender]

Oh, almost forgot: Stuck the multimeter to the relay plug under the dash and it's only getting ~9V.

Is that normal?

Could be, you might be seeing volt drop over the coil in the relay... And your betters could be flat, and it might be going via something else (like the ECU)


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[93_Clubman]

I'm not getting voltage to the fuel pump. Tested Blue/Red wire with multimeter and one of the black wires as a ground.
Any ideas where I go from here?

Have you checked the fuel gauge/pump assembly connectors at the top of the tank (outside) for continuity with a multimeter? If no continuity found, then undo fuel gauge/pump assembly screws, & visually check the fuel gauge/pump assembly connectors on the inside top of the tank by carefully unplugging them. Depending on how bad it is, if there's an issue here (evident from slight blackening), it may be visible prior to unplugging connectors as it can eventually affect the insulating plastic.

[gslender]

I'm not getting voltage to the fuel pump. Tested Blue/Red wire with multimeter and one of the black wires as a ground.
Any ideas where I go from here?

Have you checked the fuel gauge/pump assembly connectors at the top of the tank (outside) for continuity with a multimeter? If no continuity found, then undo fuel gauge/pump assembly screws, & visually check the fuel gauge/pump assembly connectors on the inside top of the tank by carefully unplugging them. Depending on how bad it is, if there's an issue here (evident from slight blackening), it may be visible prior to unplugging connectors as it can eventually affect the insulating plastic.

Fuel pump was replaced (earlier in this thread) so unlikely this is the issue, though it was with a 2nd hand unit, but let's assume the 2nd hand unit was in better condition and recent installation ensured the electrical connections were in better contact - ie movement removed any carbon build up.

So not likely to be the problem.