Sump thickness at oil return point

jp928 · Postby **jp928** » Fri Jun 20, 2014 10:38 am

Anybody with a turbo can advise thickness of the sump wall towards the front left please?
thanks
jp

bear2230 · Postby **bear2230** » Fri Jun 20, 2014 11:12 am

Its thin JP, About 3mm. On Mine we fully welded a 8mm thick by 30mm diameter aluminium disc onto the sump and tapped it 3/8bsp I think was the size. My whole engine was out though so it was no big deal to do.
You can just drill and tap the sump though. Many people do and have no problems. Flush the oil out after to get rid of swarf.
Use some gasket goo or loctite and it will seal like a beauty. Its just an oil return.

Richard.

Postby **NitroDann** » Fri Jun 20, 2014 12:14 pm

Yeah 3mm.

Just drill and tap it. Flush with a few cans of degreaser. Then put the old oil in. Disconnect the ignition and crank it until you have oil pressure. Then replace the oil and filter and you are good to go.

Be careful not to hit the oil pickup with the tap.

Use the miata turbo guide.

Dann

jp928 · Postby **jp928** » Sat Jun 21, 2014 12:40 pm

Thanks guys, good to go now. I just wish 15mm drills were easier to find, or cheaper. Only going to get 2.25 threads in in 3mm, but nobody seems to have problems.
jp

bear2230 · Postby **bear2230** » Sat Jun 21, 2014 1:19 pm

Use a stepped drill $20 from Bunnings and tap the thread with a tapered tap so when you screw your fitting in it will seal 100%

4sfed5 · Postby **4sfed5** » Sun Jul 13, 2014 8:56 am

I used loctite 3805 to seal my tapped sump. also used it to seal my tapped dual feed fuel rail. been ok for 8 years

pezchops · Postby **pezchops** » Sun Jul 13, 2014 9:46 am

bear2230 wrote:Use a stepped drill $20 from Bunnings and tap the thread with a tapered tap so when you screw your fitting in it will seal 100%

please only use one of theses bits, on your drills slowest speed!!!.they form a round hole with more of a reaming action than drilling.
if you try to use a standard 15mm drill in 3mm plate with a hand drill you will end up with a pentaganol hole.
or worse ,as you break through the cutting edges will grab and pull the drill deep into the sump.
Cover the drill bit ,and the tap with grease while you use them.
grease will trap most of the swarf and lube the cutting edges.
another tip is use a proper tap wrench.if you try using a shifter there is a high risk of tapping the hole out of square.
do everything a bit at a time...you can always remove more material but its harder to put it back on.

speed · Postby **speed** » Thu Jul 17, 2014 6:48 pm

The grease is a great tip.

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bear2230 · Postby **bear2230** » Thu Jul 17, 2014 10:07 pm

pezchops wrote:
bear2230 wrote:if you try to use a standard 15mm drill in 3mm plate with a hand drill you will end up with a pentaganol hole.

This was common when I was a apprentice and I still get a kick when I see a butchered hole.
We used to call it a Hexahole and if you chamfered it the same way it was a Hexasink.