Wazman's NB8a

Postby **NitroDann** » Thu Sep 19, 2013 1:09 am

4th gear... In the dry with good tyres...

Thats a pretty good effort.

How much power do you have?

I havnt really tried gears that high in the dry with less than 300 atw (which is piss easy really).

Dann

wazman · Postby **wazman** » Sun Sep 22, 2013 9:12 pm

My car is tuned to run 19 psi boost and it made 223 rwkw at that level of boost. On saturday when i stripped 4th gear i was running 9psi .....so im not sure how much less power that would be.

The higher the cars velocity the closer you are to the tyres sheer point. So its actually easier to slide at higher speeds. I used 5th a couple of times to initiate my "scando" flicks after i had no 4th on sunday.

I know what your thinking ! the whole thing needs to come down 30mm :roll:

After i get a job ....drop spindles for sure! ....and serious trailer mods to get the fecker on after that

lightyear · Postby **lightyear** » Sun Sep 22, 2013 9:54 pm

Need a fastback so it looks like the neesan.

Postby **Okibi** » Mon Sep 23, 2013 12:21 am

There was some bloke nearby making a fastback but I think he's busy building a house. :mrgreen:

PaulF · Postby **PaulF** » Mon Jun 09, 2014 7:43 pm

Always good to see this beast in action.

ED_MX5 · Postby **ED_MX5** » Mon Jun 09, 2014 10:24 pm

Where can I get the wheels he first had on the car??
I've done a brief search.. can't find them.
Can anyone help?

fastfreddygassit · Postby **fastfreddygassit** » Mon Jun 09, 2014 11:06 pm

ED_MX5 wrote:Where can I get the wheels he first had on the car??
I've done a brief search.. can't find them.
Can anyone help?

These ones?

wazman wrote:Superlite GTR love 16x8 -4 Tyre= Federal 595's 205x40x16

Try
http://www.selectcarsales.com.au/performancewheels.html

I looked at these last year and it was around $250-300 each for the normal (non GTR) superlite

ED_MX5 · Postby **ED_MX5** » Tue Jun 10, 2014 7:28 pm

fastfreddygassit - thanks mate. BIG HELP.
Love the look of those wheels. They really make the 'classic' look of the 5 in my opinion.
Just gotta find some decent flares to them.

AndrewJZX100 · Postby **AndrewJZX100** » Sun Jun 15, 2014 2:29 pm

Where/who did the knuckles for you mate? Could be on the hunt for some in future and I didn't think anyone in aus had fked with them as yet.

wazman · Postby **wazman** » Mon Jun 16, 2014 12:51 am

Hi AndrewJZX100,
I modify my own knuckles. Mx5 knuckles are actually very simple, the tie rod end of the steering arm is actually on the same plane as the lower control arm ball joint....so all i did was shorten the steering arm part of the knuckle by 15mm ( be aware that wheel clearance becomes an issue very fast on mx5's with extra lock. i run 14x7.5 -19 on the front to clear lower control arms and tubs). I also have the GK tech s13 slip on spacers in my rack.

Ill post some pics of my knuckle and rod ends soon.

wazman · Postby **wazman** » Mon Jun 16, 2014 1:20 am

So i have finally uploaded some pics to photo bucket of my little gearbox Nissan s15 6speed gearbox conversion! (or 200sx delivered in Aus)

This conversion requires a fair bit of fabrication.
You need to get your hands on a mazda mx5 6speed bellhousing (to bolt onto the nissan box).

Someone (probably me but lets not point fingers!) forgot to do up the gearbox oil drain plug after the last gearbox out /stripped 4th gear incident. So my 6speed turned 5speed was now a no speed box

Out she comes!

After seeing plenty of other drifters blowing up RB25 boxs with only 250rwkw! (and believe me its more than just a few) i am not convinced i want to do a big conversion for a box that is getting harder to find and cost $800-$1200 !!! Im a low budget motorsport kinda guy...... So i looked to the 350z gearbox (because there was one at work on the floor next to the hoist ;) )
The 350z box's are holding up to 800hp reliably and they have good ratios......the down side is they weigh as much as my whole bloody car! and cost around $1600 (someone told me in passing that you can land them for $2k new from Nissan America...not sure about that). Anyways.....still out of my budget

Just some pics of the mx5 6speed so you can see the similarities between it and the s15 box later.

wazman · Postby **wazman** » Mon Jun 16, 2014 1:44 am

So I googled and drained my life reading internet whispers that Nissan s15 gearboxs are "the same" as Mazda mx5 6speed gearboxs....... same same but different! you know what i mean :roll:

I could not really find any direct picture matches on the net to solidify these claims on other forums......so i sort of lost interest.
Then i was having a look on "Driftsales" facebook page (this page is full of people that have no idea what things are worth and generally dont take care of stuff....so be warned) and i saw an s15 gearbox in sydney for $150 !! Cheap....bugger it may aswell see if it is the same for that price. So i buyed it :shock:

<< thats perfect drift sales ingrish too !

To begin removing the sections/housings of the Mazda 6speed box, you need to undo ONE of the two bolts close to the oil fill plug, undo the one that is closest to the bell housing end of the box.

Next undo this bolt that will allow the cast shifter piece to slide off with the rear housing.

Sorry bout the phone pics (blurry late nights after work). This is the with rear housing removed (mx5 box)

wazman · Postby **wazman** » Mon Jun 16, 2014 2:19 am

I figured that the only real reason i was doing this at all was because i was running no gearbox oil which caused the gearbox to fail ! So i figured there is nothing wrong with the mx5 6speed for drifting...... Nissan s15 owners will all swear the s15 box is weak and cant hold more than 240rwkw !..... Well my car only makes 223rwkw (and i actually turned the boost down to save on tyres so it dosn't even have that ATM) so i figure the s15 box is a good choice. Its light. its cheap. It has great ratio's.....and the best bit! Nissan owners dont want them!!!! yay

To get the front housing off the mx5 and nissan s15 6speeds you need to take off the LARGE "c" clips from around the outside of the bearings. The bearings will stay on the shafts and bell housing will slide off over them. You need to take off the thrust bearing fork aswell obviously. You can see i took off the small "c" clips as well but you dont need to!

Bellow you can see i took out BOTH bolts to separate the housings.....but once aprt i realised you only need to undo the bell housing end one.

I took out this bolt / selector guide pin......but not sure as to whether or not i needed too in order to separate the housings. The long allen key bolt that holds the selecto pivot thingy dose need to be removed to separate the housings.

And here is what using air for oil dose to your final gear !!!

This is the point where i was thinking i can just bolt my mx5 housings onto the Nissan box center section and away we go! ...... FOOLISH CHILD!
The cog on the bench has a small shaft through the center that is held in place to the housings by the TWO bolts that i removed that you only need to remove one of......otherwise it falls out like this......not hard to put back in so no stress.

Empty hole

HERE IT IS ! Back to reality...... or as my old man would say "It's never a five minute job!" The mx5 6speed input shaft (my damaged one) verses the Nissan s15 6speed input shaft !

wazman · Postby **wazman** » Mon Jun 16, 2014 2:40 am

You can see in the above pic that i have removed the bearing from the mx5 input shaft and that the length is the first obvious difference !

So what to do ? well the nissan one is bigger so why not just get it machined down and run a nissan clutch plate ? Fabricate a gearbox cross memeber and somehow attach the Mazda mx5's power brace.... Even if i went for a different box i would have to make these things so onwards and upwards :roll:

Off to the machinist for some love! Its hard to find a decent fitter and turner these days that has high lathe skills...... gearbox shafts are hardened and not so easily machined.

After you machine it then you need to harden it again.....otherwise it wont last long :evil:

So it needs to be heated up with an oxy until burnt orange/nearly red in colour, then quenched in oil (25 deg).... for this you use the apprentices coffee cup :wink:

and it should look a little something like this....... Is there enough spline there for the clutch plate i hear you ask ???? :shock:

as far as i can measure.....yes......just..... but i actually wasn't 100% sure until i drove it ! ha ha ha ha ha ha

wazman · Postby **wazman** » Mon Jun 16, 2014 2:58 am

So to get you input shaft out you need to remove one bearing and one cog off the lay shaft (bottom shaft). You can see that i left the bearing on the input shaft even while machining!
A decent puller is what you will need......i tried at first with a non hydraulic tri hook one.....but it was either to old and shoddy or not strong enough to pull. The one pictured was the winner.

Here is something that will make all the engineers cringe !! :mrgreen:

I use and elastic band to hold the selector pivot arm in place so you can get the LONG ALLEN KEY BOLT (thats the one that alot of people, including myself, mistake as the oil fill plug!). If someone knows how to hold this (*&^%#@*&^#@ of a ) thing in place without an elastic band please inform me!!

Mx5 input shaft installed in to Nissan s15 gearbox with mx5 6speed bell housing.

Here you have em side by side! Left Mazda mx5 6speed and on the right is the Nissan s15 6speed.

and guess what! the shifter hole dosn't line up anymore :roll: