davies craig ewp alternatives

Skinny Jim · Postby **Skinny Jim** » Fri Jun 13, 2014 12:14 pm

i have been researching the electric water pump idea and the ewp seems to be the only option on the market. designed for 5L v8's it seems overkill for the little mx5 1.6L. i found a pump on ebay which is advertised as suitable for the water to air intercooler on the current supercharged ford mustang. looks ok and a 3rd of the price of ewp. i'm mainly concerned about reliability tho...
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anybody got any other leads or options on this idea?

Postby **NitroDann** » Fri Jun 13, 2014 12:22 pm

CD EWP 80.

Dann

Skinny Jim · Postby **Skinny Jim** » Fri Jun 13, 2014 12:42 pm

thanks Dann, i punched that into google and it takes me to the davies craig unit. so yr saying this is my best option?

plohl · Postby **plohl** » Fri Jun 13, 2014 12:56 pm

Yes.

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Postby **NitroDann** » Fri Jun 13, 2014 1:19 pm

Certainly is the most proven option. And the correct and popular choice on serious MX5s.

Dann

Skinny Jim · Postby **Skinny Jim** » Fri Jun 13, 2014 1:38 pm

the concern is that mine is a mild atmo engine and i'm worried that the ewp80 will be flowing too quick for correct thermal transfer. hence looking at options. i am not sure if my concerns are valid or not.

sailaholic · Postby **sailaholic** » Fri Jun 13, 2014 1:43 pm

Dann,
while we are on the topic and you've obviously seen it done a few times

1. How is the pump normally depowered? Just taking the pulley off and running a shorter belt? Or do they cut the pump shaft, remove it and weld the pump up?

2. In the applications you have seen to they run the DC controller and remove the thermostat or just run the pump all the time and leave a thermostat in?

3. If they remove the thermostat do they put a restricted plate or similar in place to replicate similar flow paths / pressures in the head

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Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Fri Jun 13, 2014 1:55 pm

Ask Hellmun as it looks like he has installed one.

http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=764005#p764005

have a look here http://www.miataturbo.net/general-miata-chat-9/reverse-flow-electric-water-pump-cooling-system-35609/#post413915

Postby **NitroDann** » Fri Jun 13, 2014 7:46 pm

sailaholic wrote:Dann,
while we are on the topic and you've obviously seen it done a few times

1. How is the pump normally depowered? Just taking the pulley off and running a shorter belt? Or do they cut the pump shaft, remove it and weld the pump up?

Leaving it as is with the fins missing seems popular.

2. In the applications you have seen to they run the DC controller and remove the thermostat or just run the pump all the time and leave a thermostat in?

Thermostat, with a very small extra hole (2.5mm) nothing else changed.

3. If they remove the thermostat do they put a restricted plate or similar in place to replicate similar flow paths / pressures in the head

Removing thermostats is for noobs.

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sailaholic · Postby **sailaholic** » Fri Jun 13, 2014 9:49 pm

The Davies Craig instructions specifically say to remove the thermostat though to allow they controller to adjust coolant flow based on temperature.

Edit: are you saying they left the mechanical water pump in and running or am miss reading things?

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Postby **NitroDann** » Fri Jun 13, 2014 10:15 pm

Removing the fins.

Dann

Hellmun · Postby **Hellmun** » Fri Jun 13, 2014 10:49 pm

They only suggest removing the thermostat because they want you to buy the external pump controller. That will act like a thermostat by cutting flow when the engines is cold for you. In my setup the impeller is removed from my factory water pump and it's still in place so you don't have to worry about belts. My cooling system is fairly overkill... I actually get the thermostat closing while on-track (I was told not to bother with the speed controller for a race car so I still have the thermostat). What's your goal by having it? Is this a street or race-car and what else is done?

For reference here's a 5 lap session of wakefield in my car on street tyres. It was a relatively cool day which made it worse.

The 0 oil pressure dip is the car stalling during a rather large spin not a car problem :mrgreen:

. Though reassuring that even spinning I still have 60+psi.

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Sat Jun 14, 2014 6:33 am

Off topic but that is what my oil pressure/temps look like, however your water temp is more erratic than mine. My water temp is more stable.

Hellmun · Postby **Hellmun** » Sat Jun 14, 2014 1:01 pm

It's turbocharged so remember that it'll be producing more power across a wider powerband. So I'd expect it to be a bit faster at cycling the thermostat open.Also don't forget it's a water/oil cooled turbo so both of those are going through the exhaust to boot.

Postby **Boyracer** » Sat Jun 14, 2014 2:12 pm

You dont need one with a non turbo, and if you do fit one make sure you have a dirty big red light to tell you if the engine is getting hot, if it stops working the engine overheats very quickly, a few of the racers have lost engines due to these things failing.