NA6 requirement

[chrons_rotary]

so which turbo should I bee looking at or researching ?
I want smooth & progressive delivery.....or as smooth as possible with a turbo.

is there a guide for dummies?

The only option for me would really be get little bits at a time over a period of time. Then get someone to do the plumbing when it ready to bolt on.

opinions on how well the NB8A brakes would cope with say 130-140 rwkw?
Clutch is a heavy duty exedy....one step up from standard....so perhaps that needs upgrading. Its done 100k km. My original clutch did 190k km so by the time I could potentially be ready for this, is about the time the current clutch will start feeling a little toasty.

diff & drive shafts are NB8A.

Dann has recently turboed my NA8 Clubman and with the good tune, you wouldnt notice the drivability change unless you put your foot down, and even then the power delivery is as smooth as you can get. Starts making boost at ~1600rpm, probably a little higher with an NA6.
More fuel efficient than the standard ECU, enough power to get up almost any hill in 5th gear above 70km/h with half throttle.

Specs: T28 non-ball bearing from S14a 200sx, RX8 injectors, MSPNP2, ebay intercooler, Danns log manifold and exhaust.
All done for less than $5k, including coolant reroute, alloy radiator, cushion button clutch.

[Okibi]

STM have you watched the mighty car mods videos? I'd watch them then work out what bits you can buy or get from your mates then chat to Dann about any pipework etc you'll need to make it all work. Then head up to Newcastle.

[StanTheMan]

yeas I started watching them this morning.
If & when the time comes. I'll contact Dann for whatever is required. This would be some time away. Pipe work is certainly something I would personally shy away from.
Sounds like a custom manifold is also required.

[StanTheMan]

so which turbo should I bee looking at or researching ?
I want smooth & progressive delivery.....or as smooth as possible with a turbo.

is there a guide for dummies?

The only option for me would really be get little bits at a time over a period of time. Then get someone to do the plumbing when it ready to bolt on.

opinions on how well the NB8A brakes would cope with say 130-140 rwkw?
Clutch is a heavy duty exedy....one step up from standard....so perhaps that needs upgrading. Its done 100k km. My original clutch did 190k km so by the time I could potentially be ready for this, is about the time the current clutch will start feeling a little toasty.

diff & drive shafts are NB8A.

Dann has recently turboed my NA8 Clubman and with the good tune, you wouldnt notice the drivability change unless you put your foot down, and even then the power delivery is as smooth as you can get. Starts making boost at ~1600rpm, probably a little higher with an NA6.
More fuel efficient than the standard ECU, enough power to get up almost any hill in 5th gear above 70km/h with half throttle.

Specs: T28 non-ball bearing from S14a 200sx, RX8 injectors, MSPNP2, ebay intercooler, Danns log manifold and exhaust.
All done for less than $5k, including coolant reroute, alloy radiator, cushion button clutch.

You mean as in the amount of power applied or wholes in the rev range?

[chrons_rotary]

You mean as in the amount of power applied or wholes in the rev range?

The power is very linear with wide open throttle, from low rpm to redline.

[Sean]

If you want simplicity, buy the AVO kit.
I'm sure I could get you a tidy price on one
The beauty is that it's legal, and you already have the most important upgrade the basic kit is missing - a bigger exhaust.

The beauty for this is the kit is pre ADR'd. If you've looked at the market lately you'll see it is flooded with turbo MX5s - CHEAP, even BARGAIN priced, some for similar and less than a good stock example. I've spoken to two seller who said they found the certification process too difficult to get past and simply wanted out cause they couldn't take the risk on a daily driver.

If you care about legality and having insurance cover if you get unlucky and injure someone... AVO is the easiest most cost effect way.

If you're happy to go uncertified, or to put it the legwork for certification yourself, a pieced together kit will likely offer your more flexibility to improve/change down the track.

With all of that said, I really don't think the certification process is that hard if you engage the engineer before you start and follow his advice.

[StanTheMan]

Sean. You know me too well. LOL
Although I didn't say it. I'm an old bugger. and would want nothing less . Engineering will be as important as driveability.

If you buy AVO kits 2nd had.....does it still come with engineering?

[StanTheMan]

You mean as in the amount of power applied or wholes in the rev range?

The power is very linear with wide open throttle, from low rpm to redline.

what about half throttle.... when criusing? Even my dodgy set up recited poetry at WOT.

[Sean]

Sean. You know me too well. LOL
Although I didn't say it. I'm an old bugger. and would want nothing less . Engineering will be as important as driveability.

If you buy AVO kits 2nd had.....does it still come with engineering?

Tricky one. If you call AVO claiming to have a kit they probably wont want to hand over the documentation. The trouble for them would be that they don't know how complete the kit is vs what they have approval for, or what may have been changed a long the way.

Technically speaking it should be approved, but without the appropriate paperwork you'll have a ahrd time convincing anyone.

[speed]

Engineering and insurance are important to me too. I will be contacting an engineer next week to see what I have to do and what it will cost. Once I have the info I'll be sure to pass it in


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sean]

You mean as in the amount of power applied or wholes in the rev range?

The power is very linear with wide open throttle, from low rpm to redline.

what about half throttle.... when criusing? Even my dodgy set up recited poetry at WOT.

Mine was beautiful to drive too - I'm sure if Bart is still on the forum he can confirm it's still easy and nice to drive. He got in it first day and mashed the pedal to overtake a truck and we broke traction

That said, I drove the thing to work, on long trips and holidays and it was perfectly well behaved. Took it on 1000klm round trips often, and longer from time to time - pretty sure Bart took it down to Victoria for a road trip after he bought it too.

A basic set up, well tuned if using aftermarket ECU will be a pleasure to drive sedately and in anger.

[bruce]

Budget for the Engineering. Can be quite exxy and off-putting.

[NitroDann]

Engineering is cheap, its expensive when you build the car without consulting an engineer and he makes you rebuild half of it over again. If you build it how he suggests the first time its a quii\ck simple process.

Dann

[bruce]

Engineering is not cheap in Vic - Engineers fees for brake, noise tests, and then the dreaded Emissions test. I do agree with consulting with them first to minimise the fix/re-fix costs.

[StanTheMan]

Thank you chaps.

thanks for the info.