My British Racing Green '99 NB

[Magpie]

I doubt that they caught on fire, they probably just smoked a lot. You see some cars come into the pits with brakes smoking and some cars going into turn 6 at QR with the calipers cherry red.

However, make sure you have not glazed the rotor as this will impact brake performance. It may be worth getting new pads, brake fluid and having the rotors machined.

I have asked for group 4 as not intending to push the car, it would have done Jap Nats on the Saturday and should be serviced before another track day.

[Trackphotos]

I doubt that they caught on fire, they probably just smoked a lot. You see some cars come into the pits with brakes smoking and some cars going into turn 6 at QR with the calipers cherry red.

However, make sure you have not glazed the rotor as this will impact brake performance. It may be worth getting new pads, brake fluid and having the rotors machined.

I have asked for group 4 as not intending to push the car, it would have done Jap Nats on the Saturday and should be serviced before another track day.

Will have to wait and see, I've loosened off the screw and it feels back to normal, a few hard brake applications didn't show any bias imbalance or anything like that. Since installing the new diff though, there's a very definite clunk sound coming from the rear end every time I let off the throttle, very reminiscent of the clunk my old commodore had in it's diff after I had a shift kit installed. Hoping the 'good condition' diff I bought isn't shot.

[Trackphotos]

Ok, it seems to be done now. Diff is in, tightened PPF and cradle mount bolts up a lot more, so the clunk sound is gone. Both axle seals replaced and looking good, no immediate leaks, and the brakes still feel alright despite one being melted. Will go for a bit of a drive another day to make sure it all feels good and no leaks appear before the next track day. Incidentally for those who care, I didn't replace the 4.1 pulse generator, so my speedo is over-reading. It used to be dead accurate with the original 4.1 diff, now with the 4.3 it's over-reading by 5-6kmh. Not enough to bother changing the pulse generator, still more accurate that a late model Corolla.

[Trackphotos]

So, I ran QR yesterday. The sway bars are super twitchy when both set to middle stiffness, so I need to fix it. The new diff feels great, more torque low down, powers out of corners a bit better. Feels planted on corner exits too. Improved my PBs by 1.9 seconds on both circuits, to 1:04.8 Sprint and 1:07.4 Clubman.

Quickest Clubman lap, with bonus T1 fail into the grass at 120kmh:




Quickest sprint lap:




Came at a price though, my tyres are rooted. Only 5 track days since new, and less than 2,000km of road driving. Most of the damage was done when it was on stock suspension and running pressures too low, but it's still wearing a bit too much. I'm thinking I will get eccentric bushes to increase camber, probably change front to 3 degrees and rear to 2-2.5. Along with that I will replace the tyres, probably with NT01 semis. With enough camber, they should last as long as these did. Softer and will wear faster, but hopefully won't be wearing on the sidewall where there's no meat to spare.

[chefie]

So, I ran QR yesterday. The sway bars are super twitchy when both set to middle stiffness, so I need to fix it. The new diff feels great, more torque low down, powers out of corners a bit better. Feels planted on corner exits too. Improved my PBs by 1.9 seconds on both circuits, to 1:04.8 Sprint and 1:07.4 Clubman.

Quickest Clubman lap, with bonus T1 fail into the grass at 120kmh:




Quickest sprint lap:




Came at a price though, my tyres are rooted. Only 5 track days since new, and less than 2,000km of road driving. Most of the damage was done when it was on stock suspension and running pressures too low, but it's still wearing a bit too much. I'm thinking I will get eccentric bushes to increase camber, probably change front to 3 degrees and rear to 2-2.5. Along with that I will replace the tyres, probably with NT01 semis. With enough camber, they should last as long as these did. Softer and will wear faster, but hopefully won't be wearing on the sidewall where there's no meat to spare.

Hey Trackphotos

what wheel was the image?? from ive run 7 track days and 3 K street klms with teins SS and a 24mm front bar, stock rear and KU36s are holding up well, Im curious as i label and rotate the wheels after each run , most runs are at lakeside, sadly none this year

Just installed a 4.1 Jap T1 centre and happy so far, huge difference on the take up out of corners with the Lsd,

well done on 96 sec lakeside

[Trackphotos]

Hey Trackphotos

what wheel was the image?? from ive run 7 track days and 3 K street klms with teins SS and a 24mm front bar, stock rear and KU36s are holding up well, Im curious as i label and rotate the wheels after each run , most runs are at lakeside, sadly none this year

Just installed a 4.1 Jap T1 centre and happy so far, huge difference on the take up out of corners with the Lsd,

well done on 96 sec lakeside

It was the rear left yesterday, but it spent most of it's life as the front left. I knew they were going to wear damn quickly since I ran them on stock suspension for too long, they were never going to last long. This is just the incentive I needed to get more camber and make the move up to semi slicks Next time I run Lakeside, the difference will be the new 4.3 T2 diff, along with NT01s and camber. I expect to knock it down to low 64s.

[sailaholic]

We ran a few track days on my RSRs and they did wear that badly. What rim and tire width?


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[Trackphotos]

We ran a few track days on my RSRs and they did wear that badly. What rim and tire width?


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Stock NB8A, 15x6. 195/50/15.

[sailaholic]

Hmm might be wheel width? I ran 205 on 7" rim. The 6 might be promoting the sidewall to roll over?

Last time I looked nt01 were decently more expensive then RSRs.


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[sailaholic]

Given this is the second set of destroyed tires (I know the first set was econo tires) maybe there is another issue. Look at roger getting like 25k? Km and lots of track days out of the ku31s.


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[Trackphotos]

Given this is the second set of destroyed tires (I know the first set was econo tires) maybe there is another issue. Look at roger getting like 25k? Km and lots of track days out of the ku31s.


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The issue was the same across both sets of tyres, rolling on sidewall. The first set failed sooner because they were hard rubber and the same load makes them break apart instead of wear down. What issue could there be other than not enough camber? It's not toe, because I have none. Caster causes no wear, which only leaves camber, or lack of it.

With regard to Roger's tyre life, the difference is 3 seconds per lap, and we hit the same terminal speeds. 3 seconds difference in corners alone equates to a lot more wear. 3 degrees of camber and stiffer sidewalls should be all it takes to fix it, I hope..

[rascal]

Hmm might be wheel width? I ran 205 on 7" rim. The 6 might be promoting the sidewall to roll over?

Last time I looked nt01 were decently more expensive then RSRs.


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Last set of nt01s I got (2months ago) were $175 ea for 205/50/15.

[zero00]

KU36's not 31's

I run a higher tyre pressure - like 36psi cold all round - 205-50-15's sitting on 6UL 15 x 7.5's

Car was set up in alignment by Leda Suspension at Brendale, runs slight rear toe-in and negative camber that is noticeable mainly on the rear - I do give it a good run thru all corners, maybe Ross is a little quicker but you wouldn't call me slow thru them - while I lack on the straights I can hold most or better thru corners, maybe Ross is that much better in the corners!

Third set of 36's, but last set was all meets for 2012/13, so eleven meets plus 22,000km road km's

I still think may run their pressures far too low! Paul from Option 1 Garage told me start them at 34psi cold minimum

[speed freak]

If you are at normal ride height with your coilovers why dont you drop the height by 20-30 mm? Lowering that much wont hurt the handling/balance and its still a useable height. Get more negative camber for free too, see if that gives you enough.

[Trackphotos]

If you are at normal ride height with your coilovers why dont you drop the height by 20-30 mm? Lowering that much wont hurt the handling/balance and its still a useable height. Get more negative camber for free too, see if that gives you enough.

Yeah I started looking at doing that tonight. I'm at 127mm to the pinch welds on rear, about 123 front. So I might drop it down to 105mm all around or something and get a little more out of it. After talking to a few people, and being advised by automotive plus that front camber options are between 'bad' and 'nonexistant' for a road car.. Might have to just try wider wheels on their own and hope I don't burn through $800 worth of tyres so quickly again.