Race engine oil.

Ramona · Postby **Ramona** » Wed May 14, 2014 7:26 pm

After doing a search on this forum I failed to find the usual discussions car forums have on engine oils.

My NA6 is a track car with rego which I bought for hill climbs and track days. I drive it there but is does very little road duty otherwise. I have had it 6 months and I think an oil change would be prudent. Not being overly concerned with how much I spend on the car I am considering a race oil such as Penrite 15. http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.p ... oducts=278. Mainly for the high Zinc content. The label says its fine for road use but somewhere I have read that race oils are no good for road dríven cars. Any thoughts>

A.Chen89 · Postby **A.Chen89** » Wed May 14, 2014 7:33 pm

Magnatec 10w40 semi synth if it is a standard motor. Done.

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Wed May 14, 2014 8:14 pm

No! No! No! You can't start your time on this forum with a question about oils for track use. :evil:

This forum has survived along time, partly through avoiding questions about politics, climate or choice of oils. As soon as we transgress then all sorts of comments come out about prime ministers telling the truth and keeping their promises and dino oils being OK for track work. It can take us months to clean up the mess but the psychological damage remains.

Unless your motor is a real screamer then Penrite race oils are probably over the top for your needs. Standard full synthetic Penrites like the HPR10 10W50 will be good enough for a stockish motor. Hunt around and you'll find them at around $40 for 5l. I personally wouldn't drop below that sort of spec for track work. Change it every 6 meetings if it's not doing much road work.

Likewise Penrite SuperDOT 4 is OK for brakes for stock/lightly modded cars. Change that at least yearly.

There's a shedload of threads here on gearbox and diff oils. Our cars are pretty demanding in terms of freshness and suitability for trackwork. You need to do a lot of browsing here for advice on them.

tescoking · Postby **tescoking** » Wed May 14, 2014 9:17 pm

OMG, just like when I first join the forum

Try Redline from U.S. or support local brand Nulon

Just make sure you use 10w40 for non-turbo and 10w50 for turbo.

Ramona · Postby **Ramona** » Wed May 14, 2014 9:27 pm

I thought it strange that no oil threads appeared when I did a search! My other car is a 928 Porsche and oils are a major sore point at times on those forums. Problem with the Porsche motor is rapid camshaft wear with oils low in zinc and modern oils are to be avoided at all cost. I use mineral oil in that car Penrite HPR30 with 1570 ppm of zinc. The HPR 10 has 1220 ppm of zinc which is pretty much the minimum levels you should ever consider. The racing oils have twice the zinc and twice the price.

Not sure what levels the Magnatec has but it is one of the oils people warn you about.

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Wed May 14, 2014 9:32 pm

HKS Super Racing 10w55
Max. Oil Temp. 150℃
100％ SYNTHETIC
SM-CF equivalent

davekmoore · Postby **davekmoore** » Wed May 14, 2014 9:52 pm

Castrol Edge Titanium 10W-60 SN also good for turbo with forged bottom end and race tolerances?

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Wed May 14, 2014 10:19 pm

It might help if you tell us more about the car ...

Ramona · Postby **Ramona** » Wed May 14, 2014 10:44 pm

manga_blue wrote:It might help if you tell us more about the car ...

'89 with a 93 motor. Stock engine with headers. Coil overs, semi slicks etc. Car was all set up when I bought it. I just feel a little guilty on hill climb runs operating in the red for extended periods or what seems like extended periods. I have to drive it home. I'm sure the engine is strong enough.

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Wed May 14, 2014 11:04 pm

Should be fun. They're tough little motors and they do stand up to the time in the red. I think I've only seen one like that let go during an event: spun big end bearing after running low on crap old oil. They don't really have any lube vices like the porkers.

Most of the trackside problems you see with engines like yours are sins of maintenance or poor quality mods: split old hoses, cracked radiator tops, thrown old belts, leaking/burst aftermarket oil cooler hoses, ...

davekmoore · Postby **davekmoore** » Wed May 14, 2014 11:07 pm

manga_blue wrote:It might help if you tell us more about the car ...

Previously properly grenaded 04 SE. It was running too much boost on a hot day with too little cooling, too little engine management and with standard internals. Parts of the bottom end went everywhere including through the steering rack which locked up the steering and made the corner even more interesting.

Now rebuilt with replacement head and fully tested, honed, decked, balanced bottom end bored to 83.5, 9.5:1 comp pistons, Haltech 1000, forged bottom end with race tolerances, big intercooler, AEM intake, SMB 2.5" exhaust, high flow cat, fully baffled sump, strengthened harmonic balancer, ID1000s, oil catch can, flex fuel sensor for 98 or E85, double valve springs, 7,500 rev limit, 52mm radiator, coolant reroute, Hondata intake manifold gasket, oil cooler, rising rate fuel pressure reg, bigger fuel pump and bigger E85 lines, HD clutch. Still on an IHI turbo (I know, I know).

Making 150kw on 98 according to the present tuner and feeling quicker than the 174kw stated by the previous tuner when the car was less modified (go figure). E85 setup finished tomorrow. Looking forward to it.

Likely to do as many kms each year on the track or driving to and from tracks as it will do as a DD.