Front Upper Arm Removal

Luke · Postby **Luke** » Tue May 13, 2014 9:10 pm

Guys

I received my coilovers last week and intend on starting the install this Thursday.
I am also changing the brake shields to Trackspeed Ducts and New lines at the same time, so the Hubs are coming off. Plus new pads and rotors to go with that.
So I will have some extraroom to work with while all the brake components are removed.

I also have a set of Delrin offset bushes for the upper arms. This is my concern.

How have you guys that have removed the upper arms before gotten the Ball Joint out?
I know you can just give it a whack with a hammer (tried this on my Falcon Rear toe arms before couldn't hit hard enough, Dad took it to work and needed a large sledge hammer!!!).
I have just learnt of a Ball Joint removal tool today. Seems to be 2 types, one that works like a wedge, and one that works like a press.
Has anyone used one before for this job, or just go with the hammer method?
If the tool is the better go, what brand and type did you use and where did you get it, as there seems to be various sizes?

sailaholic · Postby **sailaholic** » Tue May 13, 2014 9:25 pm

Most ball joint removal tools split the boot on the ball joint so you'll need to install a new boot and grease.

My uncle has always just done the hammer way. You need to hit it where it's most likely to pack the hole out and drop the ball joint.

another method is to use the cars weight (ie jack on the ball joint to pop it loose) if it's facing the right way

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zossy1 · Postby **zossy1** » Tue May 13, 2014 10:21 pm

Sorry, but the only way to drop the ball joints on an MX5 without destroying them is to remove the nuts, and beat the hell out of the ball joint sleeve on the spindle with a BFH.

DO NOT hit the ball joint threads or shaft under any circumstances.

DO NOT try to lever the thing out.

Just drop the nut and pound the spindle around the ball joint shaft. Pound it front and rear, for as long as it takes, until the damn thing drops. I have had them take 10-15 minutes of beating before they drop out but they always drop.. eventually.

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Tue May 13, 2014 10:31 pm

Most of us use the long bolt method for swapping coil overs. The long bolt goes through both inner bushes on the upper control arm. It slides fairly easily out to the front once you get it started with a pair of multigrips. Then the control arm can be swung out of the way. It's a better method than breaking a ball joint because there's always a bit of a risk of damaging the ball joint when you do it.

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Tue May 13, 2014 10:41 pm

Long bolt for sure. Don't remove the ball joints

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MrRevhead · Postby **MrRevhead** » Tue May 13, 2014 10:56 pm

Use the long bolt method. It is the most straight forward, and you don't need to use spring compressors.

A VERY detailed step-by-step guide with pictures can be found in the following link:

http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/22-suspension-sponsored-flyin-miata/77650-how-swap-your-na-nb-suspension-long-bolt-method.html

The video, which is not as detailed, but still useful is:

I suggest that you WD40 all the bolts overnight, as some can be a bugger to get off. Also, I recommend you use a torque wrench to torque the bolts to the suggested values in the write up for safety.

Best of luck

zossy1 · Postby **zossy1** » Tue May 13, 2014 11:01 pm

Guys, if he needs to press out the upper bushes, he MUST remove the upper control arm from the car which means he MUST drop the ball joint.

Damn hard to press the bushing out when the control arm is still bolted to the spindle, which is bolted to the lower, which is still attached to the car...

Luke · Postby **Luke** » Tue May 13, 2014 11:36 pm

zossy1 wrote:Guys, if he needs to press out the upper bushes, he MUST remove the upper control arm from the car which means he MUST drop the ball joint.

Damn hard to press the bushing out when the control arm is still bolted to the spindle, which is bolted to the lower, which is still attached to the car...

LOL
Thanks for pointing that out, so I don't have to.

Sound like the hammer is the go so far.

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Tue May 13, 2014 11:43 pm

It depends on how you press them. I leave the control arm in the car and do it there rather than mess around with ball joints.

zossy1 · Postby **zossy1** » Wed May 14, 2014 12:26 am

manga_blue wrote:It depends on how you press them. I leave the control arm in the car and do it there rather than mess around with ball joints.

Phil, how do you do this? Do you use some kind of special tool?

The last time I pressed old OEM bushes out, some of them took 2-3 tons of pressure on the bearing press to push them out! They are damn stubborn.

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Wed May 14, 2014 4:44 am

There's been a bush removal tool circulating in the Vic club for years. Dozens of people have used it to press bushes in situ. There might be a YouTube of it.

It wasn't around last time I did mine so I just cobbled one up out of a block of hardwood with a bush-sized hole drilled through it, a scrap of 10mm threaded rod and some nuts and washers.

Over time the OEM bushes on some cars have become bonded to the control arms and just pressing them out cold leaves chunks that are almost impossible to get rid of. If you've got those you first need enough heat to make the rubber touching the arms slimy and they'll come out clean and easy.

ralt · Postby **ralt** » Wed May 14, 2014 10:25 am

Hi.
Just read regarding hammering the spindle to get the joints out. To provide the necessary shock you need two hammers and an extra pair oh hands. Place the two hammer faces hard opposite each other and then strike the joint you will find it is usually easier to remove. By just hitting the unit holding the taper the unit is absorbing the shock. By using the hammers the shock is more concentrated.

zossy1 · Postby **zossy1** » Wed May 14, 2014 12:01 pm

ralt wrote:Hi.
Just read regarding hammering the spindle to get the joints out. To provide the necessary shock you need two hammers and an extra pair oh hands. Place the two hammer faces hard opposite each other and then strike the joint you will find it is usually easier to remove. By just hitting the unit holding the taper the unit is absorbing the shock. By using the hammers the shock is more concentrated.

That's a good idea - might have to ask the minister for finance to help next time I need to drop a ball joint - though I'm not sure how accurate she is with a hammer, and you need to take care not to hit the shaft.

Phil, that sounds great - I'd love to see a pic if you or anyone else out there cares to share! Though once the control arm is out, they are so easy to press... I guess it is a YMMV, each to their own.

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Wed May 14, 2014 3:04 pm

Probably best to keep your shaft right out of the way when she's swinging it. :wink:

Hellmun · Postby **Hellmun** » Wed May 14, 2014 10:56 pm

Well I've done the bushes without removing the ball joint..but also removed the ball-joint when my sport caliper broke it's mounting bolts and went through the control arm and tyre...

To remove the bushes I got a long piece of threaded bar, one end with a washer the size of the bushing but that fits through the bush carrier. On the other side some pipe the size of the carrier about 2" long. Then another big solid washer with a hole drilled in it and a lock nut. I don't have a picture but I could go make one again. Basically 1 washer pulls the bush (you put a nut threaded behind this which pushes the bush out via the washer), the pipe gives the bush somewhere to go as you remove it and the end washer for the pipe is just a stopper. Use plenty of WD40 and it'll take about 2 minutes per bush. By the time the nut gets difficult to turn with a spanner due to how deep you are in the housing the bush almost always falls out....I think all but 2 fell out and I pulled those two out by hand easily.

For the ball joint I used a 2 arm bearing puller to apply some torque, then hit the bottom of the ball joint with an oxy torch and it popped out almost instantly . I did give it a hit before that with the hammer but was getting a bit concerned about mushrooming the end of the ball joint thread.