Nulon long term oil treatment

[Djbone]

Does anybody have any feedback/experience with the long term Nulon engine oil additive?

Cheers

Djbone

[tescoking]

Does anybody have any feedback/experience with the long term Nulon engine oil additive?

Cheers

Djbone

I am using it for half year now. Nothing really special.

[project.r.racing]

Does anybody have any feedback/experience with the long term Nulon engine oil additive?

Cheers

Djbone

just buy a good full synthetic oil and save wasting money on additives.

[Mr Morlock]

I think PRR is right. A good quality oil changed regularly is the right way to go. Adding brand X additive is already done by the oil companies i.e. they do that already to the base oil imported into Au

[MattR]

For an NA8, which is an old motor with its design roots in the 60's use a good quality oil with a high zinc content.

Don't waste you money on a full synthetic 0-5W sewing machine oil for a modern car.

Use something that is up to 50W, especially if you have a few miles on the motor >150k km and was designed for use in older motors. The new light weight oils won't do an older engine any favours, nor your wallet when compared to the older style oils that are generally cheaper.

My preference is to use Penrite branded oils, but that's because Shell stopped bringing in their Pennzoil brand a few years ago now. The 10-50W GT oil I could use in all my older cars from the MX to the Z to the chugger, now I almost need a separate oil for each car.

[bruce]

Such additives are a waste of money. Who actually keeps a car that long to see any benefit? And then how do you quantify that benefit?
As said, a nice mid-range oil for modern engines will suffice.

[hks_kansei]

For an NA8, which is an old motor with its design roots in the 60's use a good quality oil with a high zinc content.

My preference is to use Penrite branded oils, but that's because Shell stopped bringing in their Pennzoil brand a few years ago now. The 10-50W GT oil I could use in all my older cars from the MX to the Z to the chugger, now I almost need a separate oil for each car.

Supporting Australian business too with the Penrite.

As for the Zinc, I wouldn't be too concerned with looking for a high zinc content oil, if I recall it's not super friendly to catalytic converters, which is why most modern oils have pretty low zinc content (Some of the Penrtie do however have higher zinc, as do most run-in oils)


I'd say there's a whole lot more importance on changing oil regularly, than there is on the actual oil used.

Anything with a half decent brand, in the right viscosity, changed often, should see an engine run for a good long time.

[taminga16]

Some years ago a group of BMW motorcycle owners added a certain product to the bevel drives of their bikes, it ate the very expensive front seals!
OILS are OILS!
Greg.

[project.r.racing]

For an NA8, which is an old motor with its design roots in the 60's use a good quality oil with a high zinc content.

My preference is to use Penrite branded oils, but that's because Shell stopped bringing in their Pennzoil brand a few years ago now. The 10-50W GT oil I could use in all my older cars from the MX to the Z to the chugger, now I almost need a separate oil for each car.

Supporting Australian business too with the Penrite.

As for the Zinc, I wouldn't be too concerned with looking for a high zinc content oil, if I recall it's not super friendly to catalytic converters, which is why most modern oils have pretty low zinc content (Some of the Penrtie do however have higher zinc, as do most run-in oils)


I'd say there's a whole lot more importance on changing oil regularly, than there is on the actual oil used.

Anything with a half decent brand, in the right viscosity, changed often, should see an engine run for a good long time.

I use penrite oils for all my cars. HPR 5, HPR 10 and HPR 15 depending on the car. One of the cars is involved in motorsports. All cars have done 100,000km+ over the past 7-8 years. No problems with the oils. And one of those cars did 20,000km between changes due to forgetfulness.

Started using the HPRs back when they were still only semi-synthetic blends.

They are all low zinc. You'll only see issues with zinc build up it you don't change your oils and have to keep doing top ups due to leaks/burning.

[bruce]

bevel drives
Greg.

I don't even know what that is, nor that it takes oil.

[taminga16]

Bruce,
It's one of these, a diff of sorts. The input shaft seals failed, time involved plus the cost of the actual seal made it a very expensive exercise.
Greg.

[Mr Morlock]

I recently had a conversation with an oil expert ( i.e. worked for years in the business) and he said that all the oils are imported into Aust and the compounding of the oil is done here- i.e. the additions to the base stock. My recollection was that all this product comes from Asia.

[project.r.racing]

I recently had a conversation with an oil expert ( i.e. worked for years in the business) and he said that all the oils are imported into Aust and the compounding of the oil is done here- i.e. the additions to the base stock. My recollection was that all this product comes from Asia.

funny that, fuel is the same.