American vs Australian chassis differences
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- dmad_dood
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American vs Australian chassis differences
Hi guys. Just a quick question is there any difference in the American NA8 chassis vs the Australian. More specifically the rear half. I want to buy a tow bar from the states but am wondering if its going to fit my na8 here?
Thanks,
Jono.
Thanks,
Jono.
Red NA8..
- zossy1
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- rossburns
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Re: American vs Australian chassis differences
no-------don't do it
a tow bar on a MX5---------AAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
a tow bar on a MX5---------AAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
- dmad_dood
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Re: American vs Australian chassis differences
rossburns wrote:no-------don't do it
a tow bar on a MX5---------AAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
maaate. its for a bike rack! Ive got no choice
When not in use thou it will be completely hidden and invisible to the eye so no harm.
Tow bar will fit fine.
And cheers, thats what i wanted to hear
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- davekmoore
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Re: American vs Australian chassis differences
Not true to say towbars don't cause harm. Imagine how carefully the manufacturer designs the front and rear crumple zones to minimise G forces on the occupants in front or rear enders. Then imagine what the designer would say if some random pieces of steel angle bars were added, thus making the rear a non-crumple zone for both cars involved in the bump.
UK since return: Standard NC2 (horrid), C200K, ND2 BBR, NC2 BBR200 (loved it), NC BBR300 (better than BARMY), V-Special, turbo NB8B (my 84th car)
- dmad_dood
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Re: American vs Australian chassis differences
davekmoore wrote:Not true to say towbars don't cause harm. Imagine how carefully the manufacturer designs the front and rear crumple zones to minimise G forces on the occupants in front or rear enders. Then imagine what the designer would say if some random pieces of steel angle bars were added, thus making the rear a non-crumple zone for both cars involved in the bump.
I fail to see the distinction between adding a tow bar and a strut brace? Albiet the tow bar is bigger and more solid but the same principal would apply to both.
I could argue that the weight penalty of a tow bar is offset by the chassis rigidity increase
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- davekmoore
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Re: American vs Australian chassis differences
dmad_dood wrote:I fail to see the distinction between adding a tow bar and a strut brace?
Agreed
UK since return: Standard NC2 (horrid), C200K, ND2 BBR, NC2 BBR200 (loved it), NC BBR300 (better than BARMY), V-Special, turbo NB8B (my 84th car)
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Re: American vs Australian chassis differences
dmad_dood wrote:davekmoore wrote:Not true to say towbars don't cause harm. Imagine how carefully the manufacturer designs the front and rear crumple zones to minimise G forces on the occupants in front or rear enders. Then imagine what the designer would say if some random pieces of steel angle bars were added, thus making the rear a non-crumple zone for both cars involved in the bump.
I fail to see the distinction between adding a tow bar and a strut brace? Albiet the tow bar is bigger and more solid but the same principal would apply to both.
I could argue that the weight penalty of a tow bar is offset by the chassis rigidity increase
Well to play Devil's advocate here for a minute.....
Strut tower braces were fitted by the factory in later models (on basically the same chassis) and being a fair way back into the engine bay are not likely to affect the front crumple zone significantly.
Towbars on the other hand are all the way at the back of the car and you would expect they would alter the way the rear bumper crumple zone would behave, especially in the case of a point impact.
Probably the most concerning factor is that the owners manual specifically states the car is not designed to tow and a towbar should not be fitted. This has obvious insurance consequences in the case of an accident......
While I appreciate the frustration with the difficulties of carrying a bicycle, you need to be wary of the potential ramifications of fitting a non-approved structure like a towbar or fixed bicycle rack (like what exocet was designing in another thread) in a worst case scenario.
That being said there's no limit to just what you can carry with an MX5 as this picture demonstrates!
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Re: American vs Australian chassis differences
If you want to tow and carry heavy items. Then dont use a sports car. Use a better suited vehicle. You do have a choice.
- dmad_dood
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Re: American vs Australian chassis differences
As far as im aware the na chassis was rated for towing in Australia, only from the nb onwards was there no rating.
If i was going to be towing a 2 tonne boat or even a box trailer with my 5, then i would agree with you but its a 12kg bicycle which i wouldn't exactly classify as "heavy".
If you want to tow and carry heavy items. Then don't use a sports car. Use a better suited vehicle. You do have a choice.
If i was going to be towing a 2 tonne boat or even a box trailer with my 5, then i would agree with you but its a 12kg bicycle which i wouldn't exactly classify as "heavy".
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Re: American vs Australian chassis differences
And how much does the rack itself weigh? Plus the weight of the brackets, bar and tounge of the whole tow bar unit? Any of those heavy. I think you'll be heading towards 80kg by the time you have an end result. (Which is really only the weight of a passenger anyway).
- davekmoore
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Re: American vs Australian chassis differences
http://www.usa.dahon.com/mainnav/bikes/ ... lk_s1.html
Fits in MX5 boot with the spare wheel removed, leaving plenty of room for a puncture repair kit. Only weighs 12.5kg. Deduct the weight of the spare and there'll be hardly any weight gain. One of these might be better for the effectiveness of the rear crumple zone than having the spare there.
And I have a hardly used one for sale!
Fits in MX5 boot with the spare wheel removed, leaving plenty of room for a puncture repair kit. Only weighs 12.5kg. Deduct the weight of the spare and there'll be hardly any weight gain. One of these might be better for the effectiveness of the rear crumple zone than having the spare there.
And I have a hardly used one for sale!
UK since return: Standard NC2 (horrid), C200K, ND2 BBR, NC2 BBR200 (loved it), NC BBR300 (better than BARMY), V-Special, turbo NB8B (my 84th car)
- dmad_dood
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Re: American vs Australian chassis differences
project.r.racing wrote:And how much does the rack itself weigh? Plus the weight of the brackets, bar and tounge of the whole tow bar unit? Any of those heavy. I think you'll be heading towards 80kg by the time you have an end result. (Which is really only the weight of a passenger anyway).
towbar, hitch, tounge, ball weighs up at 9kg + a bike rack 5k + bike 12.5kg all up 26.5kg. Stuff all. Ive had more weight in the boot several times.
As for the bike..
That thing just looks like an absolute wheelie machine
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- aka_juffa
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Re: American vs Australian chassis differences
I have rack similar to this one.
http://www.anaconda.com.au/Product/Bike ... k#90026840
Yours for the cost of shipping/postage
J.
http://www.anaconda.com.au/Product/Bike ... k#90026840
Yours for the cost of shipping/postage
J.
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- Caffeine
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Re: American vs Australian chassis differences
My car was the test mule for the Towbars of Woden towbar. I took the tongue off a few years ago when we got our new car (with roof mounted bike racks)
There was a thread on here somewhere. I really should find the pictures and put them online again.
Cost at the time was around $240.
There was a thread on here somewhere. I really should find the pictures and put them online again.
Cost at the time was around $240.
Supreme Blue NB8B, 1:16.98 at Wakefield when stock, but it's not stock any more...
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