warped rotors na6

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Hi there, just wondering if this is a common issue on the street. Drive through nebo/down to Samford every afternoon and the brakes were fading (fluid) so swapped with some higher spec castrol stuff and that's fixed the issue but it feels as though the discs are now starting to suffer. I use the engine as much as possible and the lads are a1rm on NA8 calipers. Not sure what disc is used. Slotted rotors or a complete upgrade perhaps? Or maybe a better alignment to carry higher corner speed. Suggestions welcomed.

Edit: more info - wheels used are 15*7 rod01 with ad08r tyres so plenty of air getting to them - but in saying that the front rims will be scorching hot -blister to prove it! At the bottom. I take care driving gently afterwards and leave it in gear and no handbrake when stopping while hot.

[Magpie]

A1RM's are good up to 750 deg c. Are the rotors glazed? Did you bed the pads in? The rotors can be checked for warp with a dial gauge. Did you do a complete fluid chage?

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Pads and rotors and calipers on car as bought from Ron. Most definitely not glazed, they eat rotors though (had them on my astina) dont own a dial gauge but there's probably 2mm eaten away so far. Minimum service width should be on the rotor itself? Full fluid flush (1L used when changing brands/types -cheap insurance)

[BPTravis]

Sorry to thread jack a little, but if u have some rotors ur throwing out, ill grab em?
I need to mock fit a caliper.

Cheers

[Magpie]

Yes the min thickness is stamped on the inside of the rotors if they are stock. I have found the A1RM's to be rotor friendly. I will measure a rotor that I have just taken off and confirm how 'hungry' the A1RM's were.

Min thickness, at least for NB8B is 20mm front and 10mm rear.

Dial gauge is for checking if they are warped, outside micrometer is for thickness. Provided there is no lip on the rotor you could use a vernier caliper to measure the thickness.

[Mr Morlock]

get the system checked by a proper brake specialist. Rotors are certainly not all the same quality and mix and match can also create problems. Pulsing on the pedal is always a guide to rotors that are not true and any break repairer will check the rotors as a matter of course. Its all very well to talk about vernier gauges / micrometers etc but unless people have had some training or have the right equipment then they can probably not read them or apply them correctly - also how does an amateur reconcile any variations- the brakes guys do this every day.

[Magpie]

Mr Morlock I assumed (an ASS out of U and ME) that since the question was posted on a firum that they were lokking for advice to sort the problem out. We all could have just posted "take it to an expert" and the thread would have been locked.

In fact we could almost do that for every post on here, reply with "see an expert", or replies like "do you want chips with that", "I knew a girl like that" or "are you right for socks and jocks".

If you have a service manual for the car then it is possible to learn how to use precision measurement stuff. Your 'response' puts the use of a torque wrench in the hands of an expert as well, it is a precision instrument, however based on the way I have seen some treated I'm not sure how precise it was, but I digress.

I will acknowledge the nugget you provided of pulse through the pedal, however you buried the nugget so its message was lost.

Mr Morlock is your choice of 'name' linked to the Morlocks, who are a fictionous degenerate race of humanoid troglodytes or member of large community of mutants who feel they are outcasts? Just curious because you seem to enjoy being the trolling black sheep of this forum.

Have a nice day Mr Morlock!

[Mr Morlock]

some things you do and some things require a certain level of knowledge. Its patently obvious in many instances that people have almost no knowledge and there is the thought that someone can just tell you and it magically comes to together. The fitters and mechanics were taught how to read micrometers and develop knacks and skills over the years- you cannot just impart these things with a line or two in a post. Some on the forum clearly are well informed and hands on and often you pick that up in the posts. There is no rule that says an interested amateur diy has to do everything themselves esp into areas where the knowledge soon runs out or time does not permit. Someone looking at brakes may choose to do the fitting but its much easier to remove a rotor and have it checked by a professional and get advice on alternate products- my local brake guy is very helpful and charges nothing to examine a rotor - machining is a cost but its not something one can do at home.

A recent segment on IDriveit did a story on replacing rotors on a Golf. The real experts identified that the existing worn front brakes actually performed better - nearly double the brake force- as ones sourced off the internet. It highlights that products are not all the same and a poor quality rotors will not perform well. You would hope that an informed brake specialist can give good advice and point someone to a product that meets there requirements.

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Thanks...

Fwiw I'm still a rookie, but have a fair idea on how stuff works purely through help online, service manuals and trial and error. Obviously trial and error on brakes is stupidly dangerous.

I'm not new to brakes just my question was more asking for those who have warped stock/(rda/dba etc) did slotted rotors fix the issue. Obviously if bot then upgrading to a complete nb8b set-up would be the next step.

My astina brakes comprise of two piece rotors from wrx (300mm), fully custom alloy center and rx7 calipers. So maybe I'm an idiot who thinks he knows but doesn't, or someone just wondering what needs to be done to keep those r1's at bay.