Stopping doors wobbling

[davekmoore]

Interior lights now stay off even over speed humps taken diagonally. Fine tuning needed as the doors are now hard to open and close.

[KevGoat]

Glad you worked it out

Might play around with mine sometime, see if I can sit them a bit tighter in the frame without upsetting the opening/closing. I managed to get my old NA's doors pretty good when I had it.

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[davekmoore]

Glad you worked it out

With a little help from my friends.

Two Beatles references in one post!

[Okibi]

[Garry]

My NA room light used to flicker occassionally too. It didn't happen very often and I never worried about it. I just put it down to the wet noodle NA chassis. I've never had a problem with the NB.

A few things for you to try though.

Try turning the silver latches on the door jambs upside down. On NB's the holes aren't quite centred on the latch and turning them upside down moves the latch in or out a few mm. I'm not sure if NA's are the same but they look the same in the pic.

If that doesn't work and your light still flickers try some bodge on the door switch plunger to make it a bit longer. Maybe finding a cap that will fit over the end (eg tyre valve cap or something) or packing up the plunger contact point on the door. It probably only has to be a few mm longer to stop the flickering.

I thought the rubber blocks were to stop up and down movement not in and out? By adjusting them to far up or down the door is just harder to shut as it is rubbing on the rubber block and will eventually wear the rubber block and the door will move in and out again as well as up and down more than it should.

[davekmoore]

-edit okibi, no point quoting the entire post directly above yours-

Thanks for the suggestions.

Yup, shouldn't really be happening with NB, SP and SE. It was happening though and it's stopped after adjusting the rubber blocks. The doors also have less movement in them. Did some fine tuning today and so far I'm happy with that as a fix.

I was more concerned about stopping the doors moving around than stopping the light flickering (although that was annoying) so haven't tried adjusting the plungers.

If the rubber blocks wear I might try having the holes in the U bolts filled and redrilled to pull the doors in tighter as turning them upside down didn't seem to do much.

[taminga16]

Dave,
The passenger door on my Bravo was making a terrible racket until we (Mate Mick) adjusted the catch etc, a wipe of lubricant once everything is in order would not go astray. I used Lanoline as it does not attack the rubber.
Greg.

[davekmoore]

Thanks all for the suggestions. Tried all of them and the effective one was adjusting the black block that moves more up and down on the body than in and out. This seems to be working great so far although it has been suggested it might wear. Hopefully it won't, and that's the solution. If not, I'll get the holes on the U plates elongated until they get the same result. If that has to be done, and it works, I'll get the elongated parts properly filled in.

[taminga16]

Dave,
If the black block wears could you replicate it with Plastic or teflon? we fabricated some sliding fittings for the boat last year with a plastic looking $5.00 cutting board and I built new fictionless running gear for my 10" telescope with some teflon that I purchased from a supplier in Bayswater.
Greg.
P.S. Everything was cut with a 1mm cutting disc in a 4" grinder and finished with a file.

[davekmoore]

Teflon sounds perfect Greg. Might even need to go into production?

[Locutus]

We need something like this:

[davekmoore]

We need something like this:

and a full cage including door bars, and a welded on steel roof

[KevGoat]

and a full cage including door bars, and a welded on steel roof

The BD rollbar fixed the rattling doors in my NA ... but I haven't wanted a rollbar in my NB, so hopefully there is another way ...

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