Okibi's SE

[Lokiel]

So I was installing a boost gauge yesterday. They have these tiny little brass olives/ferrule that go around the hose.


So in my mind i'm telling myself .. "don't drop it, don't drop it, dont ... doh!" it bounced out of the hand and down into the engine bay.

These things are tiny and I spent WAYYYYYY longer than I should have looking for it.
:

I'm not a fan of those Autometer-style hard-hoses and brass olives/ferrules:

1. If the hose kinks you have to replace it.

2. The brass olives/ferrules are not re-usable, they crush in place to form the seal so you need to replace them if you screw up or want to move the gauge later on.

3. The brass olives/ferrules are SO easy to lose if you drop them, they're small, hard and round so if you drop them they bounce and roll away - and they're masters of "hide and seek: as Okibi found out.


The barb on the FM throttle body looks good -just wish it came that way from FM.

[Okibi]

Yeah not sold on the autometer gauge either, I already have 3 sport comp gauges left over from the red car, the air/fuel one i've rigged up in the black car for now so figured i'd get something that sorta matches (except i'd painted the bezels on the other ones black).

I think peak hold would be really useful in a boost gauge.

Long term i'd like to go a double din screen with the gauges displayed on there so this autometer boost gauge might end up in the people mover down the track.

[Okibi]

After Ryan's post about cleaning the blower fan, I decided to give it a go while the glovebox was off.

Winner winner chicken dinner, only a couple of tiny leaves

Gave it a clean anyway

Also cleaned inside the housing

I have also been meaning to change the diff fluid

Only needs 1 litre but I had plenty on hand.

Changed the rear pads to a set of hawks while I had her in the air

[PaulF]

Ahh, gearbox and diff oil: also known as the game of "How many things can Paul drop in the drain pan?"

[Okibi]

Adaptronic Plug-in Select ECU - MX5 NB8B



Connecting the plug-in select ECU is amazingly simple, I ran the supplied hose from the intake manifold to the map port on the Adaptronic Select, unplugged the factory ECU (3 plugs) and plugged them into the Adaptronic, put the keys in the ignition and it started no dramas.

The ECU comes with a USB cable and I downloaded the latest version of Adaptronic's WARI software. A little stuffing about to get the driver to load on Windows8 and I was good to go.

I wanted to do the mods in steps so I could narrow down any issue. When I installed Dann's exhaust I had screwed in the wideband O2 sensor and run the wires for the Innovate Motorsports LC-2.

It was great that Kenson had recently installed his adaptronic, he was great for reassuring me I was on the right track.

The LC-2 comes with a digital output plug (similar to a headphone jack) that simply plugs into the front of the Adaptronic. The LC-2 isn't listed in the Adaptronic Software yet as it replaces the LC-1, the LC-1 setting works. Turned the key again and it started.

The next step was to install my BEGI intake and no longer use the AFM. Installed it, started the car and once again it sprang to life. It's great when things just work.

Next I installed the Injector Dynamics ID725s, I'd read about them on the Adaptronic forum and I know Tim Kent was happy with his. I ordered them with plug and play adaptors. It's a bit of a pain to get the top of the intake manifold off and access the injectors. Strut brace comes off, then I removed the throttle body and the top of the intake. From past experiences I was very cautious removing the stock injectors. I covered the open side of the intake manifold so nothing could fall in then loosened the fuel rail bolts. There are plastic spacers on the fuel rail and I took a lot of care not to drop them into the engine. To have enough slack to manipulate the fuel rail I unbolted the plugs from the back of the head. The ID725s look longer than the stock injectors but they slipped in fine. I put it all back together and opened WARI to change the ecu settings for the new injectors. Based on what I thought would work and it wouldn't idle. [url="http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=786158#p786158"]See my comments here[/url]. Kenson had drummed home to me about DEADTIMES, DEADTIMES, DEADTIMES, I know Saboteur had done a stack of testing, his car has fuel regulator set to 3 bar and the SE pressure fluctuates. As pressure increases so does the deadtime, I started with Tim's deadtimes and added 10 to each, the car started and idled. I added another 10 to each and it ran even better. Things were back on track.

Last Sunday Kenny came over and checked my settings, showed me where i'd make a couple of stupid mistakes and helped me put in a basic (no boost) tune with Adaptronics own self learning mode.

[Okibi]

Today was Dyno day.

Andrew Stevens at Hyperdrive is the local Adaptronic guru, he's tuned Matts supercharged NC, Chris's uber SE and recently Kenson's SE.

He's obviously very much in demand and it took about 3 weeks to get dyno time.







Andrew did a great job, I was pretty conservative with my boost level and the power figure is nothing to write home about (167.6HP about 25% up on stock) but the car is much nicer to drive.

[ManiacLachy]

Great write up! Not as much power as I was expecting, but if it's conservative and the ride is smooth, and your happy, then it's perfect

[Lokiel]

So how conservative were you with boost?

Did you bump it up from the factory 7.5psi limit to 7.6psi?

Seriously though, you will be safe up to 13psi on the OEM turbo. I've only heard of manifolds cracking at 14psi or more since at those levels you're just pushing hot air though the IHI turbo.

You should be able to hit 200rwhp easily at around 12psi.

[Okibi]

It's only a couple of HP down from Kenny's on the same dyno, so I think that's par for course.

[Juicy HiC]

Unreal Okibi. Great to see all these SE builds.

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[Nevyn72]

Andrew did a great job, I was pretty conservative with my boost level and the power figure is nothing to write home about (167.6HP about 25% up on stock) but the car is much nicer to drive.

Great write-up Okibi, thanks for sharing!

I'm curious about the final output too, from what I understand you've done the basic 'package' that typically gives you 150+ rwkw. That is intake, intercooler, exhaust, injectors & ECU.
Are you running an ECU controlled EBC (factory or aftermarket) or a MBC? What maximum boost level is set?

Now one of the main benefits of doing all this work, other than increased power/torque, is vastly improved drivability. This is what I'm after and will be quite happy with a final output result similar to yours (ok, maybe a bit more ). Did you specifically tune for drivability, reliability or just being conservative with the intent to stretch the envelope further down the track?

I also notice from one of your pics you seem to have deleted the centre console & glovebox. What have you done with the fuel lid & boot release levers? Why did you decide to remove it?

[Swordfish]

Great to see, I cannot wait to get mine sorted.
Got a dyno chart you can put up?


Cheers
Dave
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[kenson]

Haha I could see this coming!

Yep I made 171 HP atw in different conditions - I still haven't scanned in my dyno chart yet.
The important thing, is we're getting pretty consistent numbers for similar mods @12 psi.

The dyno we're using is known to report low and I've heard phrases like "heart breaker".
HP number lovers have gone to other hub dyno's in Perth and have seen a 20% difference.

If I really really care, I might try another dyno but I really can't be bothered. I've very happy with how it drives at the moment

Nice work Dave! Good to see it all worked out well!

[NitroDann]

There is only one measure of performance that matters.



Dann

[Lokiel]

It's only a couple of HP down from Kenny's on the same dyno, so I think that's par for course.

There is one Australian dyno that is well known as reporting "highly optimistic" values.

I think you've now found the Australian "extremely pessimistic" dyno.

PS: Why you still have OEM washer bottle? NoPro washer bottle better!