HELP - Replacing exhaust and intake

angusis2fast4u · Postby **angusis2fast4u** » Mon Mar 17, 2014 4:08 pm

I'm currently replacing the exhaust and intake on my na6 anything i need to watch out for? i.e. engine block bolts?

and should i replace gaskets or hangers?

Thanks guys

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Mon Mar 17, 2014 5:11 pm

Treat gaskets like condoms.
Sure, you probably can use them again, but it's really best not to.

Hangers should be fine, replace them if they're split, otherwise leave them.

Intake should be simple (assuming the plastic parts here, not the manifold) just don't force anything too hard and break the plastic/clips.

Exhaust I would recommend having a decent breaker bar handy, the bolts will be rusty, and will be stuck you'll need the leverage to get some.
It's also an idea to run over each on the bolts with a wire brush to clean off the visible threads, saves them binding as it loosens, then give each bolt a squirt with WD40/Lanolin/Inox or whatever penetrating oil you prefer.
Start at the back with the exhaust, undo muffler, midpipe, then headers.
The exhaust manifold studs will likely be stuck hard, but try not to force them too much and risk breaking a stud.

edit:
oh, and if the headers have the OEM tin heat shield attached, don't be too concerned about the bolts holding it, some WILL break.
They're only little bolts, and pretty weak anyway... years of heat cycling makes them really brittle.

sailaholic · Postby **sailaholic** » Mon Mar 17, 2014 5:28 pm

Trade tools does a meter long breaker bar for about 20 bucks. It's great for exhaust and suspension work.

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angusis2fast4u · Postby **angusis2fast4u** » Mon Mar 17, 2014 5:48 pm

hks_kansei wrote:Treat gaskets like condoms.
Sure, you probably can use them again, but it's really best not to.

Hangers should be fine, replace them if they're split, otherwise leave them.

Intake should be simple (assuming the plastic parts here, not the manifold) just don't force anything too hard and break the plastic/clips.

Exhaust I would recommend having a decent breaker bar handy, the bolts will be rusty, and will be stuck you'll need the leverage to get some.
It's also an idea to run over each on the bolts with a wire brush to clean off the visible threads, saves them binding as it loosens, then give each bolt a squirt with WD40/Lanolin/Inox or whatever penetrating oil you prefer.
Start at the back with the exhaust, undo muffler, midpipe, then headers.
The exhaust manifold studs will likely be stuck hard, but try not to force them too much and risk breaking a stud.

edit:
oh, and if the headers have the OEM tin heat shield attached, don't be too concerned about the bolts holding it, some WILL break.
They're only little bolts, and pretty weak anyway... years of heat cycling makes them really brittle.

Thanks man, that's perfect, also where would i pick gaskets up from? is supercheap/repco fine or should i head to mx-5 plus? or mazda dealership even?

sailaholic · Postby **sailaholic** » Mon Mar 17, 2014 6:00 pm

Supercheap is fine.

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hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Mon Mar 17, 2014 7:41 pm

Supercheap/Autobarn/Repco/Bursons

Bursons is my usual one, but they all sell the same stuff anyway (Bursons tend to just have a larger lot in stock)

22Silver · Postby **22Silver** » Tue Mar 18, 2014 12:30 pm

Bursons seems to be cheaper too

Purfler · Postby **Purfler** » Tue Mar 18, 2014 12:33 pm

Earlier this year I was taking the engine and gearbox out of my NA and so needed separate the exhaust from the manifold. The most useful advice from this forum, for which I am still grateful, was to use impact sockets rather than the usual ones to loosen the nuts. They don't slip. I also used copper grease on reassembly that should make further work a bit easier.

Regards,

Tim