The next mod I was set on upgrading was the factory exhaust, but wanted to install a boost gauge first before doing any go fast mods so I can take note of what's happening and what changes between mods.
I looked around a various brand gauges but was undecided on where to mount the gauge when I came across a post on the mazdaspeed forums in the U.S
This mounted the gauge into the factory oil pressure position and looked very factory. Just what I was after.
As the oil pressure gauge is a dummy one, as in it only shows there is pressure and if you loose pressure it slowly drops to zero which by then your engine is gonners, I will be using an LED light to show if oil pressure is lost as an immediate warning.
The guage needed for this is one by SpeedHut in America. Its an electronic boost gauge so no need to run a hose through the firewall and allows very shallow mounting. It was a bit over $200 shipped from the US.
I believe it was Lokiel who also has done this mod and gave some guidance on the install.
This is the gauge untouched. Silver background with red letters to match the factory colour scheme. Speedhut even on request put the word Mazdaspeed in the correct font on the gauge which also glows of a night. Very impressed with the build quality:
So to install this into your dash, first remove the three screws underneath the steering column and remove the plastic trim around the steering column.
Pull the dash cover over the cluster towards you. It is hard to remove but just keep pulling and it will pop out of its clips in the top middle and then on either side of the steering column.
4 screws are now exposed. Undo these and remove the cluster and unclip the three electrical connectors to the back of the cluster then remove from car.
When your at a clean desk, push the clips off that holds the plastic cover and black surround off the cluster to reveal the gauges
The oil gauge is easy to remove, turn over and three screw hold it in place.
So thats the easy part down, and now the stressful "Point of No Return" begins
The gauge comes apart by unscrewing the chrome ring. remove the clear cover. then unscrew the plastic ring that holds the gauge into the cup.
To remove the gauge completely you need to cut the large plug cables
(sorry for out of focus photo)
With the cup separate you can drop it into the oil filter spot. Its just too tight around the edges and no where near shallow enough.
Thankfully the lugs that the gauge sit on inside the cup are deep enough that you can cut the top edge of the cup down to level with the cluster.
You also have to file down the thread on the outside of the cup so it fits in the cluster. you really have to take it close, like egg shell thin. Quite unnerving!
Also a problem is the back of the connector for the cluster stops the cup sitting low enough. Theres plenty of depth in the cup between the base and the back of the gauge so slowly dremel out the top back section, test fitting regularly.
You also need to cut a hole in the roof of the cluster to feed the three separate sets of cables through.
In the pic below I fed the larger cables under the speedo and the thin lights cables between the turn signal and the cup.
I later redid this and used a piece of plastic to push the cup slightly to the left to centre it.
Little bit more filing required here:
Once it fits neatly, remove it all
as you need to now wire in an LED for the oil pressure.
The LED I purchased had a nice chrome mount with a screw down to secure it from behind with decent wires already attached.
I drilled I think a 6mm hole?? in the black cluster cover for the LED to drop into to the left of the tacho. Theres plenty of room in the cluster here for the wires.
One of the three screws that holds the oil gauge in is its connection to the circuit board, another is its connection to ground.
I used a nut, bolt and washer combo into the "oil" hole, and then ran a crimped wire from it to the LED and then utilised an unused ground on the left side of the cluster. The ground is very secure as its a threaded hole. The oil nut/bolt, you want to make sure is solid as if it comes loose you will need to remove the boost gauge to tighten the nut again
The gauge of wire I used was way too thick but it was all I had at the time and it works so its staying in.
I have also since these photos were taken removed the crimp connectors and soldered for a permanent connection.
When the oil LED is wired in and your happy (I plugged the cluster in to check it worked before going further) drop the boost gauge back in and rotate it so its straight. This is very trial and error as the needle auto calibrates when you turn ignition on. Where it stops is 0psi so if the face plate has rotated, you need to spin it to line up 0psi with the needle. If now the gauge is not level you need to try to rotate the whole cup. Rinse and repeat.
The cluster cover will hold the gauge face secure and the cup is squeezed into its spot between the turn indicators. So far nothing has moved.
I put the black plastic cover back on to hold everything in place and then gave the clear cluster cover a very good clean down to remove finger prints etc before clipping it back on too.
Plug in the cluster connectors, and screw the cluster back in, pop the dash cover back on and then the steering column and your done!
And here it is all illuminated.
