NB8A vs. NB8B as daily driver car - Fair price difference

[Locutus]

Easily worth the premium for the brakes alone.

[Clan]

Thank you for your comments.

What about the mechanical issues, then? Is the VVT system bulletproof? Has the 6-speed car better driveability, due to torque being "better" spread?

[kalt]

Clan, what is your % daily dríven at night? NB8B has projector headlights compared to reflector lights in the NB8A. Quite pleasing to drive with projectors at night, I had to adjust mine lower as I had obviously blinded one car in front of me.

I recommend getting the 'upgraded model' brakes for pure common sense safety. The one thing I cannot stand is a car with sh*t brakes... this means pretty much every single auto tranny car out there.

VVT with 6 speed is good fun even in light traffic. 5 & 6 is rarely used unless you like loading the engine on 2000rpm at 60kmh

[Locutus]

The VVT system is mechanically bulletproof. A very small fraction of owners have issues with the VVT cam angle sensor as it ages and/or when subjected to extreme heat/track conditions.

Real world gearing in the 6 speed isn't much shorter than the 5 speed (10AE models aside) because Mazda decided to bolt them up to a taller diff ratio. The feel of the 5 speed shift is better but the 6 speed is a stronger box.

If you don't often drive for long periods on highways and have no plans for forced induction, a shorter diff ratio is a great mod (along with the obligatory LSD). That is, if you don't mind rowing through the gears in a daily driver.

[sailaholic]

The upgraded brakes will make no difference in a daily driver. Assuming you can lock your wheels bigger brakes are just more fade resistant.

If you can lock your wheels on any of the standard brake packages you have a brake problem


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[Locutus]

The larger size isn't going to make a difference, but ABS also includes EBD which makes quite a significant improvement in the feel and responsiveness of the system under hard braking. In an unexpected emergency situation on the street, it's apples & oranges.

[sailaholic]

Ahh I thought it was only the SE that got the ebd.

In that case, yes I agree it would make a difference.


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[Clan]

I'd go for the NB8A if the price difference to an NB8B would be attractive enough (say 2-3k, as you mentioned, for the same technical condition). But the actual market positioning - closer to an NB8B price - makes the later a more attractive choice.

I've seen a few of both models over the weekend, but I wasn't impressed with their general condition and mostly with their worn out (seats, steering wheel rim, gearshift knob) and rattly interiors. Should I expect this "patina" to be a characteristic of all MX5s?

On the other hand, I've been taken aback by Toyota's decision, as it affects me directly and, at least theoretically, I might be out of job by 2017

[OurCognitiveSurplus]

I got the NB8A, it was a bit cheaper. The only thing on the NB8B I miss (or couldn't get easily) is ABS. I think ABS is the deciding factor. If you want it, get the B. If you want to save the cash instead, get the A. Or just get one in the condition you want regardless of A or B. It was just a facelift, no big deal.

[hks_kansei]

I've seen a few of both models over the weekend, but I wasn't impressed with their general condition and mostly with their worn out (seats, steering wheel rim, gearshift knob) and rattly interiors. Should I expect this "patina" to be a characteristic of all MX5s?

Depends on the km of the car.

Mine has 140,000km on the clock and the only real wear is to the righthand side of the steering wheel where the leather is rubbed enough to be going dull.

Never had an issue with a rattly interior, apart from expected things like the passenger seatbelt (if it's not in it's holder) and the glovebox lid (and only when I had the cowl intake in, which caused a lot of vibration there)

My passegner seat hasn't worn at all, but also doesn't get used that much (can't comment on driver's seat or gearknob, both were removed not long after I got the car)

[Charlie Brown]

Very interesting answers to your question coming from NB8A owners. Most saying they are happy with what they have, with some are saying get the 8B because of ABS, brakes, lights, etc, etc. None have mention one of the major problems with the 8A being the failure of the coil packs. They alone will set you back over $500 to replace if it hasn’t been done already.

For me as an ex 8B owner, really it’s a no brainer. The 8B is a far better model for all the points mentioned in the posts above as a daily drive. Look for a car that has had all the service work done that would normally occur with the kilometres travelled. For example, shocks replaced at 80K, 100K major service done, clutch replaced if it’s done over 125K, etc.

Remember that the 8B is now 12 - 14 years old and you can get 8B’s in good condition for $8.5 - 9K. Forget the advertise price, that’s a just the sellers starting point. Pick a few cars from the advertisements, check how long they have been for sale and see if the owner is dropping his/her price. If they have then you will probably stand a good chance of scoring a further price reduction.
Next remember extras (besides air conditioning) are worth nothing unless you intended to install them yourself.

Happy hunting.

[samx5]

I would go for the best car that you can afford. When I bought my NB8A a few years ago they were $4-$5k cheaper than 8B's ($15k versus $20k) and for a "toy" car I couldn't justify the extra (I only do 5000-odd km per year) and I preferred the feel of the 8A 5 speed gearbox and wanted the smaller wheels for tyre choices. I was willing to forego the ABS, just personal choice. If you can go to $11-12k find the best 8B you can (probably a 2003 model), otherwise you should be able to get a nice tidy 8A for $7-$8k. Agree with CB that an 8B is probably a little nicer as a daily dríven car. Understand the sentiment re: coil packs, but at this age you would expect some items may be approaching their use-by date. Mania has coil packs for $225 aftermarket at the moment. Have fun looking and drive a few, you'll be able to pick a bad one pretty easily after a while.

[Vat]

Very interesting answers to your question coming from NB8A owners. Most saying they are happy with what they have, with some are saying get the 8B because of ABS, brakes, lights, etc, etc.

I don't know that anyone's really been pushing to buy an 8A or 8B either way, just explaining the value they placed on those elements. If I'd had another couple of grand to drop then yeah, I'd have been looking at 8Bs, because of the premium value I'd have placed on those elements. I would probably have had it but decided to jump on the one I got because it was in my window of value and I felt the car was in good enough condition to warrant taking a punt on (so far so good).

I think the main advice coming through here is to buy the best car you can afford

The only element I would have really liked is ABS but the brakes seem to be able to be modulated near lock-up threshold well enough, but there is always that patch of diesel on a greasy road to catch you out one night.

The other factors weren't huge - I'm happy enough with the power, the 15s are fine (and for me, being a bit picky on the ride front, probably a better solution), it will be a rare occasion the little fella will be on unlit roads at night so the headlight issue's more marginal for me, the 6 speeder would be nice but not $1k nice. I've got air and power steer so I'm happy, and dual airbags means I'm a lot more comfortable with the wife driving it.

Others will place differing values on these things, which is cool. If we were all the same, we'd all be driving white Corollas, and no-one wants that.

[shuey]

.. wished I could have gotten an 8C with OBDII, but wouldn't trade my 8B for an 8A. I was sold by the refreshed FL'd front end with the fog lamps, bigger (and nicer rims) and the ABS

[Clan]

All great inputs! The way I see it is an NB8B is the sweet spot for me. Now, I just have to find that little lady willing to sell it...

Are the 2003 onwards models (NB8C?) more desirable in terms of equipment? Are the lower power/extra weight noticeable?